Honeywell V8043 zones valves continue to die

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Old 02-20-18, 09:17 AM
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Honeywell V8043 zones valves continue to die

My system is about 22 years old. There are 6 zones each with a Honeywell V8043 valve. These valves seem to last about 5-10 years then begin misbehaving. The motor continues to operate but the gearing is what quits. Meaning that the gear slides or jumps and either never reaches the micro switch to activate the system or it activates, heats the zone and shuts off only partially. Meaning that it does not completely close the zone. If I manually push the lever to close the valve it gets past the point of hang up and the spring closes the valve.

I have always just replaced the valve to remedy this. Is there a cheaper way to fix the existing valve instead of replacing it?
 
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Old 02-20-18, 02:18 PM
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J,
When zoning hot water systems you have 2 choices. Circulators or Zone valves.

The choices you have are different brands of the options which may have different price points.

That's about it to my knowledge.
 
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Old 02-20-18, 09:26 PM
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You change the entire valve ?
Most zone valve series have replaceable heads that just snap on and off.
Half the price of an entire valve and easy to do.
 
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Old 02-21-18, 07:53 AM
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jeweler: Is there a cheaper way to fix the existing valve instead of replacing it?

Often teeth wear on brass quarter round gear and assembly must be replaced.

The whole valve does not have to be replaced, only the "activator motor and valve assembly". On new generation valves it can be removed without draining the zone.

https://customer.honeywell.com/resou.../95C-10655.pdf

For older valves there is an adapter plate kit. After it is installed the zone does not have be opened before replacing activator assembly. Picture in link below shows the items:

https://www.google.com/search?q=hone...hrome&ie=UTF-8
 

Last edited by doughess; 02-21-18 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 02-21-18, 09:50 AM
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Yes, I only replace the head. No need to remove the actual valve itself. But, being cheap I rue the $50 plus shipping for the head when it is really only the quarter round gear mechanism that gives out. Motor is fine, so is micro switch and the remainder of the box. Seems like it is the pivot mechanism the gear and springs attach to that is the weak point. I wish they made an upgrade to this one that would bolt/screw onto the existing head.
 
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Old 02-21-18, 08:11 PM
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The most gear tooth wear is midway on the quarter round brass one. There is actually a fair amount of force/friction on the teeth.

My system has 8 of these valves. Extend gear life by greasing them. Ebay sometimes has good deals.
 
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Old 02-23-18, 07:47 PM
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My experience is very little difference in price between a power head and the whole deal... like 10-15 bucks..... then you find out the valve itself is bad or in backwards... .... just get the whole valve and use the head but have the base just in case.
 
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Old 02-23-18, 07:52 PM
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I had one that would stroke open except the last 1/8th inch this is the micro switch engagement. I fixed it by cleaning the post area and some wd40, and then forced it back and fourth several times. Worked like a charm.
 
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Old 02-23-18, 08:26 PM
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http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell...eads-1718000-p

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell...lves-8632000-p

If you check out this sight you might want to buy the whole valve as HV suggested. For 6.00 how can you not.

Just my thoughts, hope it helps.
 
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