Oil System - Boiler is cold; No Hot Water HELP
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Oil System - Boiler is cold; No Hot Water HELP
Hi All,
My aquastat won't pass the voltage threw to the burner to kick it on.
If I jump the T-T, the burner will kick on fine and shut off when it hits temp BUT then my hot water circulator attached to the valve controller won't kick on....
I troubleshot the circulator and it turn on fine hooking it up to 120 so thats not the problem.
I troubleshot the thermostat on the hot water tank and it will turn the Zone 6 light on and off on the Taco (see attached for proof) if I adjust the temperature.
Mind you everything was working perfectly fine for months up until yesterday, anyone have any idea?
My aquastat won't pass the voltage threw to the burner to kick it on.
If I jump the T-T, the burner will kick on fine and shut off when it hits temp BUT then my hot water circulator attached to the valve controller won't kick on....
I troubleshot the circulator and it turn on fine hooking it up to 120 so thats not the problem.
I troubleshot the thermostat on the hot water tank and it will turn the Zone 6 light on and off on the Taco (see attached for proof) if I adjust the temperature.
Mind you everything was working perfectly fine for months up until yesterday, anyone have any idea?
#2
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I’m not one of the experts for sure, but I don’t see how it can be an Aquastat problem if jumpering T-T on the Aquastat causes the burner to run.
It looks like the ZVC controller is not working properly for zone 6. The pump for zone 6 does not come on and at the same time the signal to the boiler (“X X Isolated End Switch”) is not made – yet the LED for Tstat 6 is ON indicating call for heat from zone 6. That seems to point to the ZVC-406-4 controller to me.
There is supposed to be a jumper on 3-4 of zone 6 when a pump is used for zone 6. It looks like there is in fact some kind of jumper above the connector on zone 6 but I can’t tell from the pic.
Maybe one of the experts will be along soon.
It looks like the ZVC controller is not working properly for zone 6. The pump for zone 6 does not come on and at the same time the signal to the boiler (“X X Isolated End Switch”) is not made – yet the LED for Tstat 6 is ON indicating call for heat from zone 6. That seems to point to the ZVC-406-4 controller to me.
There is supposed to be a jumper on 3-4 of zone 6 when a pump is used for zone 6. It looks like there is in fact some kind of jumper above the connector on zone 6 but I can’t tell from the pic.
Maybe one of the experts will be along soon.
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One thing I'm not sure of that would probably answer this problem I'm having is:
Does the aquastat only get a signal from the ZVC to turn the burner on/off. Or does it somehow send a signal back to the ZVC to also turn on the DHW Pump?
Its the ZVC that should get the thermostat reading from the DHW tank (which it is clearly since the led turns on) and send a signal to both the isolated end switch and the DHW pump to turn on, right?
Does the aquastat only get a signal from the ZVC to turn the burner on/off. Or does it somehow send a signal back to the ZVC to also turn on the DHW Pump?
Its the ZVC that should get the thermostat reading from the DHW tank (which it is clearly since the led turns on) and send a signal to both the isolated end switch and the DHW pump to turn on, right?
#4
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Your pic shows you have zone valves according to your control. Did you follow the schematic for your set.
By your wiring you have a separate pump for your domestic hot water. According to the schematic you need a jumper on ZV 6 terminal on 3 & 4 and I don't see it, unless it's there and I cannot see it.
Does the heat work.
Just what I can see, hope this helps a little.
By your wiring you have a separate pump for your domestic hot water. According to the schematic you need a jumper on ZV 6 terminal on 3 & 4 and I don't see it, unless it's there and I cannot see it.
Does the heat work.
Just what I can see, hope this helps a little.
Last edited by spott; 02-22-18 at 09:52 AM.
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@camcars –
The ZVC doesn’t get feedback from the Aquastat or the pump. It should just activate both when the zone 6 tstat calls for heat.
@spott – I figured that since this is a new problem there must have been a jumper at 3-4 on zone valve 6 for it ever to have worked. I was thinking that maybe it just fell out somehow, but then looking again at the pic I was thinking that those little black and white things above connectors 3-4 on all those zone valve connectors are in fact some kind of jumpers, and it looks like 3-4 for zone 6 is in some kind of different position than the rest of the zone valves. So that would make sense and could mean that it is jumpered as of now. But a lot of if’s.
Well looking again - maybe those white things above the connectors are holes for a jumper wire. Guess camcars is there and would have to evaluate.
The ZVC doesn’t get feedback from the Aquastat or the pump. It should just activate both when the zone 6 tstat calls for heat.
@spott – I figured that since this is a new problem there must have been a jumper at 3-4 on zone valve 6 for it ever to have worked. I was thinking that maybe it just fell out somehow, but then looking again at the pic I was thinking that those little black and white things above connectors 3-4 on all those zone valve connectors are in fact some kind of jumpers, and it looks like 3-4 for zone 6 is in some kind of different position than the rest of the zone valves. So that would make sense and could mean that it is jumpered as of now. But a lot of if’s.
Well looking again - maybe those white things above the connectors are holes for a jumper wire. Guess camcars is there and would have to evaluate.
#6
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Z,
Those things above the terminal blocks are part of the board but they are not jumper connections.
Any connections, zone valve or jumpers must be made at the terminal blocks. I enlarged as big as I could and still could not see a jumper at that block.
It looks to me from the pic he is only using 1 zone right now and the indirect hot water heater.
If you look at the black wires at the bottom left , that is the wiring for a separate hot water pump which is why I mentioned the jumper at terminal 6.
I think without that jumper when the tank calls there is no connection to activate the pump.
The aquastat is sending the signal to the top where the stats go but without the jumper it cannot complete the circuit I believe.
As you said it's a guess without more info but that's just my take on it.
Those things above the terminal blocks are part of the board but they are not jumper connections.
Any connections, zone valve or jumpers must be made at the terminal blocks. I enlarged as big as I could and still could not see a jumper at that block.
It looks to me from the pic he is only using 1 zone right now and the indirect hot water heater.
If you look at the black wires at the bottom left , that is the wiring for a separate hot water pump which is why I mentioned the jumper at terminal 6.
I think without that jumper when the tank calls there is no connection to activate the pump.
The aquastat is sending the signal to the top where the stats go but without the jumper it cannot complete the circuit I believe.
As you said it's a guess without more info but that's just my take on it.
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Thanks everyone for the input, I'm going to double check if I have that jumper there when I get back to the house.
The weird thing to me is that how was this system working for months before hand if possibly the jumper isn't there?
The weird thing to me is that how was this system working for months before hand if possibly the jumper isn't there?
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thank you guys for the help, it was indeed the jumper that was the problem.
I still don't understand how this all worked last week without it but who cares I guess lol I have heat and hot water again!
I still don't understand how this all worked last week without it but who cares I guess lol I have heat and hot water again!