Explain BB heater process to new guy?

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  #1  
Old 06-05-18, 07:00 PM
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Explain BB heater process to new guy?

What's up guys, first time here. Basically, I'm trying to remove a wall in my basement to open up the space more. However, there is a baseboard heater on the wall that I am trying to learn how to remove.

Some background information is that I have a hot water heater system (not steam). There are six zones (thermostats) on the boiler system itself, each with their respective supply and return pipes. I'm not sure if this leaves me with a mono flow or series system, if it even matters for removal?

So far, I know that I need to shut off the boiler by turning it off at the thermostat and circuit breaker. What comes next? Do I need to cut off water supply to the whole house, or just the boiler? Do I need to drain the boiler, or just cut off water supply to the specific zone I'm removing? How do I cut off the pipes at the source and allow those loops to drain? After unscrewing the BB itself, would I cut threw supply and return pipe with a hacksaw? If so, how would I proceed from there? By capping off or connecting to return pipe?

I know its a lot of information. If you could be as detailed as possible in your answers if willing to, it'd help me so much, even if you only explain one part of the process. I don't have any plans right now, as I'm just trying to educate myself here as much as possible. Thanks in advance guys. God bless.
 
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  #2  
Old 06-05-18, 09:20 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Since you have 6 zones it is not a monoflow system. Each loop is a stand alone circuit.

You're removing a BB strip from the basement. Are there other strips on that same zone ?
If there are others.... you will need to join the two ends of the removed strip to maintain the integrity of the loop.

Usually provisions are not made to shut a single zone off for service. That means you would shut the water supply off to just the boiler.... not the whole house.

If you could post a few pictures of your boiler and piping setup we can offer more detailed help.

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  #3  
Old 06-09-18, 10:23 AM
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Hey Pete,

Thanks for the reply and explanation of the setup. I've attached a few pictures. Any chance you can go into further detail on the removal process itself? Thanks in advance.

Edited: There is only one BB strip within that zone.

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Last edited by PJmax; 06-09-18 at 01:23 PM. Reason: cropped/enhanced/reorineted pics
  #4  
Old 06-09-18, 12:26 PM
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D,
First off I see 7 Taco ZV's and only 6 returns or am I mistaken.

As far as shutoffs go, you have one on every return line to be able to isolate and bleed that zone. Unfortunately they did not put shutoffs on the supply side in case of ZV replacement.

With all of those zones I'm guessing the basement has it's own zone.

The good news is if you just want to disconnect your baseboard or do anything else to that zone you CAN use your ZV as an isolation valve since it is 100% shutoff.

You do not have to do anything else except close your shutoff on the return side of that zone and turn off your t-stat so the zone valve cannot open. You may want to disconnect the wire on terminal #1 on that zone valve as a safety precaution which will interrupt the power from the stat in case someone turns it up by mistake.
With everything isolated you can then drain the zone for repairs.

You do not have to shut the rest of the system down or shut the boiler off or the main water feed if you do not want to. You can leave this like this as long as you want with no interruption to the rest of the system, even if it goes into winter or you can leave this, and eliminate for good if you no longer want it.


You have a nicely installed system except for the fact that you have no shutoffs on the supply before the zone valves in case they have to be replaced. Would make job so much easier.


Just my thoughts, hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 06-09-18, 06:18 PM
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Thanks so much; this helped immensely. I just have a few clarifying questions.

One of those supply valves is connected to the water heater (not shown) which may be why there is only 6 returns, but not entirely sure.

Yes, I should've mentioned that the basement has its own zone. It's the second valve from the right. When you say "close your shutoff on the return side of that zone," does that mean simply turning the yellow switch there? And shutting off the thermostat will definitely ensure that the zone valve doesn't open while working on it?

Lastly, can you explain where/ what terminal 1 is? Is it just on the Taco ZVs or is it something else?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm just trying to learn as much about the process as possible to make it go as smoothly as possible. Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 06-09-18, 09:33 PM
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Yes.... turn the yellow ball valve off.
Look at the side of the zone valve. You should see three wires on three screw terminals that are labeled 1, 2 and 3. Power to the wire on terminal 1 opens the valve.

I would recommend removing the base board heater and as much copper line as needed and then cap the ends of the pipe off. if you don't want to solder just get 3/4" shark bite caps. They just push on to a clean cut pipe with no burrs.

SharkBite-3-4-in-Brass-Push-to-Connect-End-Stop
 
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Old 06-10-18, 09:44 AM
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To simplify further on what PJ explained #1 terminal is on zone valve only and is the TOP terminal.
 
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Old 06-10-18, 01:08 PM
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Hmmmm..... top terminal ? The terminals are side by side.
 
  #9  
Old 06-10-18, 05:19 PM
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Pete, unless they came out with a new design that I haven't seen yet, Taco ZV have terminals top to bottom.

I haven't bought one in a while but the ones in the pic are the top to bottom terminal valves.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-571-...eat-Zone-Valve
 
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Old 06-11-18, 06:59 PM
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Makes sense, thanks. To disconnect the wire, should I just unscrew that screw on that terminal #1 shown, and then pull out that wire? And is it easy to reconnect?

Also, I know this doesn't have to do with the project, but what does that switch to the left of the terminals do, for future reference?

As far as cutting the pipes, is there a specific union or point I should cut at?

Thanks for the idea with the SharkBait fitting. Can you explain specifically how to use this to connect the supply and the return pipes together? I've heard that just capping the supply pipe can lead to burst pipes, but I'm not entirely sure.
 
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Old 06-12-18, 01:20 PM
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Just loosen the screw and remove the red wire and then just put it back on when needed. No need to take the screw all the way out.

Cut pipe at any convenient place on straight pipe. No joints or fittings.

No need to worry about freezing with no water in the zone after draining.

Silver lever is used for manually opening the valve when bleeding the zone or if the ZV head goes bad if you pull the handle down it will allow water to flow in that zone whenever any other zone calls, eliminating an emergency call until you can replace the head.

To join the pipe together you will need 2 couplings and another piece of pipe.

A thought on reconnecting the pipe. If you are not going to reuse your baseboard you can just cut the aluminum fins off and you'll be able to remove the brackets and casing and just leave the pipe. No draining of the zone unless you want to anyway. You do not have to cut pipe to drain.
 
  #12  
Old 06-12-18, 07:35 PM
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Thanks again spott. Unfortunately I have to remove the wall behind the baseboard heater, so leaving the pipe there isn't really an option for my situation.

PJ recommended the SharkBite fittings. In your experience, would you just recommend soldering a separate pipe to join the supply and return, as you said, opposed to just putting a single fitting on? I know my concern was that a single fitting on the supply pipe might cause it to burst if someone accidentally runs the tstat, but once again not sure if this is off-base or not. So just double checking that I should connect the two by soldering over capping one with a fitting.
 
  #13  
Old 06-13-18, 11:09 AM
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Once you drain the zone and remove the baseboard there will be no water in the zone to freeze. By removing the #1 wire on the zone valve the t-stat is useless and will not activate the zone valve, even if it is turned up by mistake.

Personally, I would just cap the supply and return lines or both ends of the pipe where the baseboard was.

I have never used sharkbite fittings. I solder everything or use pex. People use sharkbite with good success though and it's a good option for the homeowner with limited experience with soldering.

If I were doing the job I would just solder 2 caps on the pipes for about a dollar vs 2 sharkbite end stops for about 12.00, but are easier for the diy because of no soldering.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-30630-3-4-Copper-Cap

http://www.supplyhouse.com/SharkBite...Stop-Lead-Free

If you go to the above site and type in sharkbite fittings you can see what is available.

Why I mentioned leaving the pipe was because you mentioned joining the 2 pipes back together again which would give you the same result as just removing the fins and casing.
 
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