Boiler: hot water, but no heat

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Old 09-22-18, 05:10 PM
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Boiler: hot water, but no heat

Hey Yall,

First time posting here, or anywhere for that matter. I'm stumped.

We've had trouble with our old oil burner for a few years now. In the spring I got tired of fooling around and did an overhaul on it. Changed the triple aquastat, 2 zone valves, circulator pump, transformers (one on top of the burner and one on the wall between the Tstats and the aquastat), controller, and burner motor. Fired it up and the hot water was hummimg through the summer.

With autumn looming, we decided to test the hot water. Cranked up two thermostats, one upstairs and one down, and there seems to be no call for heat.

Each part we changed was meticulously replaced, one wire at a time to ensure we matched the original scheme. All new parts are identical to the old. All aquastat settings match the old. We flushed the heating pipes to ensure they hadn't got air locked. Reducer valve (original) seems to operating fine.

I am in construction and try to handle these situations around the house on my own. We've got three kids going to college and don't have two nickels to rub together. We could really use the help.

Thanks for taking the time to read this. Have a great day!
 
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Old 09-22-18, 05:13 PM
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Oh, and we changed both Tstats.
 
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Old 09-22-18, 05:44 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Thread moved to the boiler forum.

Since you have hot boiler water..... there isn't a problem with the boiler or aquastat.
See if the circulator is running.
The first thing you need to check is if the zone valve is actually opening on a call for heat.

There is a manual activation lever on the zone valve. If it moves easily..... the valve is open.
If it's hard to move.... the valve is not open and there won't be a heating call.

Don't routinely flush your boiler water. Only empty the system is service is requred on a component.
Pictures of your set up there can also be very helpful..... How-to-insert-pictures
 
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Old 09-22-18, 06:59 PM
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Hi Pete,

Thanks for the quick response. The circulator is not kicking on. It is functional though. I tested it by lightly pressing the relay with a screwdriver. The zone valves are not opening on there own.
 
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Old 09-23-18, 09:12 AM
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Seems like you must not be getting 24v at the zone valves if neither zone valve is opening. I would check the wiring from the transformer to the zone valves and if that looks correct, I would check with a meter for 24v. Maybe your new transformer is bad.
 
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Old 09-23-18, 10:32 AM
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Thanks dad, That seems like the next logical step. The transformer is new and I've done a visual inspection on all the low voltage. I own a multimeter but have never needed to learn how to use it. Guess it's time. Thanks for the tip.
 
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Old 09-23-18, 11:58 AM
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Sure thing Mason! If you set your meter to read AC you can check yourself by measuring one of the 120v outlets in your house. You will probably have to set the meter to AC and set the scale so it can measure over 100v.

You can then use the probes and check your outlet and you should measure somewhere in the ballpark 110-120. If so then you know the meter is set properly and should be OK to measure the 24v.
 
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Old 09-23-18, 02:13 PM
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AM,
Jump the TT terminals on your aquastat and if the pump and burner start that will tell you your burner circuit is fine and you are not getting a signal from the ZV's on a call for heat.

This could be because of the stats or ZV's.

if you are checking power it is a series circuit.

From trans- stat, stat - ZV (term1), ZV (T#2)- trans. Another wire goes from terminals #2 & #3 on ZV to TT on aquastat to start pump and burner.

This for a TACO zone valve with 3 terminals.

Do you have pics of your zone valves and their wiring.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 09-23-18, 04:32 PM
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spott -

I think the burner has been running through the summer for hot water.
 
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Old 09-23-18, 05:18 PM
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A couple years ago, I was fooled for a short period of time when I replaced my Taco Circulator and didn't realize up to that point that these pumps are directional, and must be installed in the proper direction to either pull or push the heating fluid.

I installed my pump and when a call for heat was made, the pump ran . . . . but it was for naught. No water circulated. Luckily I stopped the Circulator within a few minutes, and flipped it (and its housing, to change the direction, and everything has been operating well ever since.

Because the OP mentioned that he had changed the Circulator last spring, and it ran, that may be the current problem . . . . the armature is turning; but the impeller is not moving water. Running too long in that condition may damage the water lubricated ceramic bearings.

I suggest that you check the directional arrow that's embossed as part of the boiler plate on the pump housing to check this possibility,
 
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Old 09-24-18, 03:49 AM
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Here's a thread that I started on 11/16/2016 to draw attention to this issue.

Importance-of-knowing-direction-of-your-flow

This thread explains better what I experienced in 2016, and provides details I don't remember today.

Just a possibility.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 09-24-18 at 06:25 PM. Reason: corrected non working link
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Old 10-13-18, 09:04 AM
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Hey Dad,

You were right about the transformer. Been workiing on cars in the driveway since my last post. When I got back into the heat topic tested the voltage to the zone valves, wasn't getting anything. swapped out the transformer and we're back in business. Thanks for all the help.
 
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