Boiler and thermostat not synced?

So my family and I just bought a new home, the boiler works great, but my only issue is when I set the thermostat to 50 or 60 the boiler keeps cycling about every 20 minutes or so for 3 minutes at a time, finally got up to 70 degrees and still cycling, there is an emergency shutoff at the top of the cellar steps, so my question is does the boiler run souly from the shut off because that’s the only way to turn the heat on is through the switch, it won’t turn on by turning the thermostat up, it is oil heat, it’s a Weil McLain boiler, has an updated Beckett burner, home was built in the 50s. Hope that’s all the information you need because I don’t know a lot about boilers, I only have experience with forced air oil heat. Thanks

 

Does that boiler supply you with your domestic hot water also ?
If it does..... it cycles to maintain the domestic hot water temperature.

 

Not sure what you mean but domestic water supply, it does not heat my hot water if that’s what you mean, the water heater is full electric.

 

Unless it used to be oil heated water a long time ago, the water heater is right next to the boiler, does the boiler think that the water heater is still running on oil heat?

 

For best results the boiler contents should be maintained at "operating" temperature during the heating season, even with no domestic water heating. This requires cycling on and off even when the thermostat is not calling for heat.

There would be two independent processes: (1) the burner cycling controlled by a separate thermostat (aquastat) in the boiler, and (2) the circulator pump controlled by the wall thermostat.

If the boiler were allowed to cool down between calls from the wall thermostat then the system mightl not provide heat as fast when the thermostat does call for heat, and the room temperature would fluctuate more.

The emergency switch can also be the switch to turn off the boiler for the summer.

 

"but my only issue is when I set the thermostat to 50 or 60 the boiler keeps cycling about every 20 minutes or so for 3 minutes at a time", I am confused, "what does this statement mean". My next question is , is this a steam system or a hot water system, and what type of heating units are installed, radiators or baseboard units? I will assume it is a hot water system with no zone valves or zone equivalents, and has a pump to move the water to the heating units. If this is correct, the boiler cycling could be from 1) an oversized boiler, 2) too much oil delivery, 3) air in the heating system, 4) problems with the pump and/or water circulation. A better explanation of the system is necessary to give a more detailed answer. If you can, pictures of the boiler and radiators would be helpful.

 

Steamboy
It is a radiator based system, no baseboards I believe, the first floor radiators are tucked into the walls so I don’t know if that’s considered baseboard, I know what electrical baseboard units look like and they don’t like like those, excuse my ignorance on these systems, I can’t upload a photo right now I can later this evening, it is a Weil McLain unit with a becket burnet, definitely a newer burner,it’s got a blue pressure tank that sits on top as well, i did notice only one radiator isn’t getting hot, maybe lukewarm but that may just be from ambient air around it. I will upload some photos later.

 

Ok I figured out what’s wrong with my boiler, the circulation pump isn’t kicking on, Made sure that works by powering it up by applying 120 to it, I hear water circulating, sounds like there is a lot of air in the lines, I found that the relay is bad, I can’t find just a relay for the aquastat so I need the entire thing, costs over 500 bucks, Honeywell R8182H.

 

You may be able to substitute this one for what you have. Those analog or mechanical ones have gotten very expensive.

This has the option of hi and low limit which you don't need because you're not using your boiler for hot water.

Pics would be very helpful. You may have to get a new primary control if your reset button is incorporated in your present control but still a lot cheaper than 500.

Another option is to remove the guts from the case of the one you have and check the solder connections on the back side to see if anything has worn. Those controls were famous for bad solder joints and you may be able to just repair a bad solder joint.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...ronic-Aquastat

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Beckett-...lay-Time-0-sec

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...ic-Oil-Primary

Couple of examples, there are more options also if you go to above sight and enter primary controls in the search box.

Hope this helps a little.

 

Yes the reset button is incorporated as well as what I think is a heat sensor or thermostat, it’s about 2 feet long, I haven’t figured out how to upload pictures to this website.

 

That long cable is the sensor that goes into a well, so your control is mounted on the burner instead of on the boiler. That's not a problem, just involves some wiring if you get an electronic one that mounts onto the well on the boiler and then your new primary would mount where your control is now.

All comes out in the wash.

 

Thanks Spott very much appreciated,