Circulator pump noise

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  #1  
Old 12-13-18, 03:34 PM
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Circulator pump noise

Hi All, Thanks for stopping by.
I am first time home owner with no experience with heating. I own a 2 story house (zone 1) with a ground level addition (zone 2).

I have a natural gas furnace with a 1 pipe steam system, it was converter to a 2 zone. The 2nd zone is hot water baseboard with a circulator pump.

The pump has been make a very loud rattling noise and its been shaking the pipes. The pump is about 1 year old as i changed it myself.

I thought I might be air so ran water and i drain water out the furnace and filled it back up to 3/4th level.

I took the pump apart to see if it was working and it was running. I looked good with out any damage, but its still making noise. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks again.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-13-18, 04:35 PM
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Steam systems normally do not have circulator pumps. We need more info, and photos of your system. Detailed nameplate data for the pump. Let's say it is a faulty pump, and needs to be replaced. Are you up for that, DIY?

You may be confusing the number of pipes and the number of zones?
 
  #3  
Old 12-13-18, 06:10 PM
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T,
Adding a hot water zone to the basement on a steam boiler isn't that uncommon but it must be done right or you could constantly get air bound. You are dealing with 2 different systems and must be treated as such.

Even though you filled your boiler did you bleed your hot water loop. It sounds like you might be air bound causing cavitation in the pump. I wouldn't change anymore parts until the problem is found. Save your old pump if you have it. It's probably still good.

As gil requested, pics are a must in this situation to determine what you have.
 
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Old 12-13-18, 06:24 PM
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Its common to run hot water zones off steam boilers. Even to 2nd floor if needed.

You should have a bronze pump installed since its an open system.

These will be triple the price of cast. Cast will not last long if so.

should be a 3 piece. No wet rotor type. The b and g's are lubed by oil and not the boiler water

Should have some type of strainer for the pump so crude dont get in it.

And where did they tap the lines for the loop off the boiler?
 
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Old 12-13-18, 09:48 PM
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http://imgur.com/gallery/LEx8xF3
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Here is a link to the picture of the system.
I am not sure hot to bleed the hot water loop.

The pump is Cast iron by B and G model NRF-22.

I not exactly sure where the line are tapped. In the picture link above perhaps it is visible.
Thanks.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-14-18 at 03:43 PM. Reason: added pics from links
  #6  
Old 12-14-18, 12:52 PM
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First, which way is your arrow pointing on the circulator. Towards the ceiling I hope.

To bleed the water loop: You have 2 yellow ball valves. 1 above the pump on your supply line and another on the return line going back into the return line on the boiler. Those 2 B.V's must be closed to isolate the loop from the boiler.

You have a blue handle spigot with a hose cap on your return line. Remove the cap and attach a hose running into a bucket or somewhere. This is where you will bleed the air from the water loop.

You have a 1/2" copper line going into a tee above the ball valve on the pump line. That is your water feed. It looks like a ball valve on that line that's closed. Your pic makes it hard to see.

With the power to the boiler and pump shut off, you are going to open that closed valve on the 1/2" cold water feed line which will let water only into that loop and open the blue handle spigot.

The water will flow through the loop forcing the air and water out of the hose. Run the water and continue to drain until you get a clear steady stream of water from the hose.

When all is clear, close the spigot and then close the feed line ball valve.

After you closed the spigot and feed valve open up the 2 yellow ball valves on the supply and return.

Turn on the boiler and then turn up the stat to the hot water zone and test for proper operation.

The piping is suspect but at least this will bleed that zone. If you continue to get air it's because of the way it is piped and how low you allow your boiler water to get.

Your hot water supply and return for the hot water zone should come off as near to the bottom of the boiler as possible to assure the boiler water level does not go below the pipes.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 12-14-18, 02:39 PM
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Spott,

The circular pump arrow is up.

I see the supply valve, I not sure which is the return valve? I circle both in the pic in the link. Please let me know if that's the return valve in the bottom that I circle.

You are correct, that is the water feed with a b valve, I also included a picture.

//imgur.com/gallery/RK8yxC7
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Last edited by PJmax; 12-14-18 at 03:47 PM. Reason: added pics from link
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Old 12-14-18, 03:21 PM
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T,
Yes, those are the 2 valves to be closed when bleeding to isolate the loop.
 
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Old 12-15-18, 07:08 AM
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While this is an open system there seems to some question as to effectiveness.

The circulator is on 3/4" pipe to boiler old "fill" fitting, not on main in or out lines.

Another issue may be system pressure, or lack of it. TuningtheBoiler only "filled it back up to 3/4th level."
 

Last edited by doughess; 12-15-18 at 08:22 AM.
  #10  
Old 12-15-18, 09:02 AM
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D,
You do realize this is a steam system with an added hot water loop and although the 2 systems are using the same boiler they are completely divorced from each other and work independently of each other and must in order for them to both work properly.
 
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Old 12-16-18, 07:23 PM
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S,

thanks for helping out. I ended up buying a new pump and bled the water loop. All the noise has stopped.
 
  #12  
Old 12-17-18, 10:29 AM
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T,
Thanks for the update. Merry Christmas.
 
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