Problem with ZVC403 Controller Take 2

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Old 12-21-18, 10:27 AM
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Problem with ZVC403 Controller Take 2

Hey all,

I end up at this site often, first time posting. I'm hoping for a little clarity with something. I'll preface this by saying I'm capable and handy with basic plumbing and electric, but this is a bit out of my depth, thus the outreach.

This thread is the exact problem I'm having. And it appears the op solved the problem...i'm hoping for help finding these parts in my system. It's a short (and interesting) thread, if you don't mind reading it.

https://www.doityourself.com/forum/b...ontroller.html

My problem is precisely the same as the above, just swap some zone/room correlations. E.g. My living room is my problem. And my zone valves are newer (for Radiant floor) and I can't find a model #

My first question is, how do I know what Zone Valve I have? It's Honeywell, and looks similar to this (but they all sorta do) pic I'm afraid to open it up without some guidance first based on that sticker.

And then how do I replace the "power head?" on this model? (Thats what the other poster needed to do)

Thank you all for any help. I'm so glad I found that threat....this problem has been driving me nuts.
 
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Old 12-21-18, 12:26 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You have a Taco mulltizone controller and one zone is not working properly. There are lights on the unit that tell you when that zone has been activated by the thermostat. Is that coming on ?

The Honeywell zone valves should have a label on them with the part number. They come in two styles.... one with the screw terminals and one with four wired leads. You have the terminal strip one..... correct ?
Most have a replaceable motor head that just twists off.

Under the screw terminals is a sliding lever where you can manually turn the zone on. It the valve is calling for heat... that lever slides easily. If it's not calling for heat.... you have to push it to open.
 
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Old 12-21-18, 01:16 PM
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C,
The sight below y give you some info and options on your valve.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...alves-17141000

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...3F-Zone-Valves

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 12-22-18, 07:10 AM
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PJ, just an FYI..Honeywell old style zone valves are not the "twist off" type. There are two screws that hold the head to the body. The newer ones have a clip that holds them on.
 
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Old 12-24-18, 06:03 AM
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Thanks

Thanks for the replies/help. I'll get to actually mess with it in the next couple days

@Pjmax
"You have a Taco mulltizone controller and one zone is not working properly. There are lights on the unit that tell you when that zone has been activated by the thermostat. Is that coming on?"


Yes...but the boiler doesn't fire up. Living room T-stat is calling for heat, zone controller is indicating correctly, but boiler stays off. If I turn on any other t-stat, it will fire up the boiler and then the LR will heat up. But that LR zone by itself, won't fire the boiler. I replaced the t-stat already.

"The Honeywell zone valves should have a label on them with the part number. They come in two styles.... one with the screw terminals and one with four wired leads. You have the terminal strip one..... correct ?"

I don't see a label, but I will look closer. Mine looks very much like the picture I linked. ON the bottom is four screw terminals to attach a 4 wire to. I've seen some that have internal connections...but mine are accessible from the bottom.

"Under the screw terminals is a sliding lever where you can manually turn the zone on. It the valve is calling for heat... that lever slides easily. If it's not calling for heat.... you have to push it to open."

I've noticed that lever, but didn't know that is what it does. So short term, would I have to open/close that lever every time I turn on the LR zone? For right now, I've just been using two zones to get the boiler on.

So is that what appears to be wrong? The motor that turns that lever is just not doing it anymore? I hear an audible click from it when it engages, but that might just be the relay?

@Spott TY, that does help !

Thanks all, I will update asap!
 
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Old 12-24-18, 10:02 AM
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C,
In your case from your info that manual lever isn't a factor because when any other zone calls, you get heat to that zone also, which means that your zone valve is actually opening on a call for heat which are the first 2 term. on the valve or the yellow wires if you have the other style.

On call for heat the stat powers your first 2 terminals on the ZV and when the ZV opens it is suppose to make an end switch which powers the other 2 terminals that turn on the pump and the burner which isn't happening, so either your ZV is not opening all the way to make that switch or you have a defective head.
 
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Old 01-02-19, 12:09 PM
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Thanks for your patience...just been busy, and since I can get the zone to work, I haven't been urgent about it.

So on the ZVC403, at the terminals on the top of the unit... when a zone is off, there is voltage running through it (not sure what range to set the meter to measure it accurately) When a zone is on, the voltage drops to near Zero. In the thread I linked, the people used this test to diagnose whether it was the 403 or not. Does this sound right? The T-stat appears to be causing the right signals to happen. But I'm not sure if I'm even measuring at the right place. At the top of the board is a row that says Zone 1, 2, 3. That's what I put the meter on.

I found that manual lever, and it works like stated. But it doesn't change the fact that the boiler isn't kicking on.

I found the model number of the zone valve. It's Honeywell V8043F1036. There appear to be 2 red wires, an orange and a yellow internally. The bottom is 4 terminals. If going clockwise, and starting at the top left it's Blue, Green, White, Red.

Does the above help diagnose anything?
 

Last edited by Claythrow; 01-02-19 at 12:15 PM. Reason: new info
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Old 01-02-19, 01:57 PM
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The sight below is a pic of the replacement head you need from the number you gave. The 2 terminals on the top marked END SWITCH are the ones that activate the boiler when the other two open the valve to let the water flow.

When you take your voltage reading you should have 24V, which you do and 0 is correct when calling for heat. They call it traveling voltage. If you show 0 volts and you get heat when other zones call and you have no resistance on the lever on a call for heat that means the valve is opening but the end switch is not activating the boiler.

Your problem is most likely the head but if you want to double check change heads with one you know works to be sure.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...3F-Zone-Valves
 
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Old 01-02-19, 06:57 PM
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Spott.... are we ruling out a defective 403 ? The 403 relies on the switched contacts from the zone valve to tell it to start the boiler. So on the controller..... 1 & 2 supply 24vac to the valve and 3 & 4 are the end switch.

Maybe we need to see how the controller is wired?

Don't worry about the wiring at the top of the 403. If the red lights are coming on when they should.... your stat wiring is ok.

Taco ZVC403 manual
 

Last edited by PJmax; 01-02-19 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 01-03-19, 09:41 AM
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Yes PJ. I really never considered the 403 itself as the problem since he has other zones working perfectly off the same control but I agree pics of the control and wiring would be very helpful if possible.

I'm leaning to the ZV head itself but as you pointed out without pics is difficult to know exactly what he has.

With the info provided this is what I'm thinking anyway unless you notice something or have other ideas.
 
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Old 01-04-19, 05:35 AM
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You mean this?

 
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Old 01-04-19, 05:44 AM
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The sight below is a pic of the replacement head you need from the number you gave. The 2 terminals on the top marked END SWITCH are the ones that activate the boiler when the other two open the valve to let the water flow.
So is this going to require any soldering? (Sorry, I'm not sure what replacing "the head" entails...) Or draining of the system? *Edit* - Just saw that the link to the powerhead I need also has install instructions : P So I need to isolate/drain the section, but no sweating (I think?)....

When you take your voltage reading you should have 24V, which you do and 0 is correct when calling for heat. They call it traveling voltage.
Ok. The meter was reading 26V which I'm assuming is close enough. I thought that was high, which is why I thought I had the meter set wrong. I was expecting more like 8-12v

If you show 0 volts and you get heat when other zones call and you have no resistance on the lever on a call for heat that means the valve is opening but the end switch is not activating the boiler.
Ok...I think that is exactly the scenario I'm in...

Your problem is most likely the head but if you want to double check change heads with one you know works to be sure.
Hoping to see what comes from seeing the wiring of the zone controller

So I looked at the manual for the 403 controller (thanks Pjmax, that was helpful) It looks like terminals labeled 3/4 control the "end switch" and I see now in my pic that the bottom row is labeled Zone valves. If there is a failure on Zone 2 to kick on the boiler, shouldn't I be able to see that problem with a meter on terminals 3/4 of zone 2? If so, what would I be looking for?

Thank you all for your help and patience! I love understanding things better.
 

Last edited by Claythrow; 01-04-19 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 01-04-19, 08:17 AM
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Hi, no voltage on TT when Tstat is calling,that is correct, terminals 1,2 Should have 24 volts at the same time, terminals 3,4 should be closed to start the burner, ZV should be open, jumping out 3,4 should start the burner.
You could remove those 2 wires and with an Ohm meter check for continuity.
P/S terminals 3,4 do not control the end switch on the ZV, instead they control the burner starting.
Geo
 
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Old 01-04-19, 11:47 AM
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That is the control and the 4 connector terminals at the bottom are for your zone valve wires for each zone. As geo mentioned if you jump terminals 3 & 4 your boiler should start. If it does then change your head.

Depending how old your valve is depends if you have to drain the zone or system depending what you have for isolation valves.

Below is the sight again with the head you described with install instructions and what to look for. On the ZV head, opposite your terminals end is your info on the valve. After the model number there will be a sideways 6 if you have the newer style valve body. If you do there is no need to drain anything.

Lift off the cover and there are 2 screws to remove the head(motor) from the valve body and then replace the same way.

On the sight, under the pic of the head you will see a BLUE ARROW. Click on that arrow and a video will come up on how to change the head.

If you need more options go to my previously posted #3

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...3F-Zone-Valves
 
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Old 01-07-19, 03:20 AM
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That is the control and the 4 connector terminals at the bottom are for your zone valve wires for each zone. As geo mentioned if you jump terminals 3 & 4 your boiler should start. If it does then change your head.
It does start the boiler! I remember reading about the terminal jumping thing in the other thread, but I did not understand what they were talking about until now. So I will order and change that head.

Just for my own edification, can anyone explain what likely caused this failure? Or why is jumping 3|4 spins the boiler but the head won't on it's own? Is this common?
 
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Old 01-07-19, 10:07 AM
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On a call for heat the zone valve opens and makes an end switch in the valve which sends power to the burner. If the end switch or something happens internally to the head the boiler doesn't receive the signal.

By jumping the terminals you are simply bypassing the ZV. Like everything else, they do go bad. Not sure about Honeywell but Taco says there valves have about a 7 yr. lifespan, although I found them to last a lot longer than that. I suppose the company has to put a limit on anything to cover themselves in case of complaints.
 
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Old 01-10-19, 08:57 AM
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ZV delivered in one day, replaced this morning, and all works correctly! Ty all.
 
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Old 01-10-19, 11:24 AM
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Thank you for the update.
 
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