Oil Boiler wont light up cold house

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Old 01-02-19, 08:47 AM
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Oil Boiler wont light up cold house

I have an old Utica boiler with a Blue Angel HS burner. I had an intermittent problem with the boiler not coming back on during heating cycles. (running fine... I hear the burner cycle on and off for hours, come home 8 hours later burner in lockout. Push the reset button...lights right up. 3-4 times per week lately.
I service the electrodes, nozzle replacement, clean furnace heat exchanger, flu etc. It all worked, then started the intermittent no light problem again.

I pulled the burner back out, double checked the electrode placement etc. and replaced oil filter.

Now, the burner will not light at all. When powered up, after reset, I hear the circ pump run and that's it. no fuel pump noise, no motor noise. no fuel in chamber, no fuel smell.

This is a two line system, I did not bleed or run fuel through line after filter change. Thermostat is set to call for heat, there is power to the primary controller, but nothing (except circ pump) is kicking in.

R7184A oil primary L7224u aquastat.
I would appreciate some help.

thanks,

Ed
 
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Old 01-02-19, 09:05 AM
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Since nothing seems to be happening, I would suspect either a bad R7184 or burner motor. If you have a voltmeter, You can check to see if you are getting 120v to the motor. If you are, i would say it's a bad motor. If no power to the motor, the problem is likely the R7184. You could also use a non-contact voltage detector instead of having to disconnect wires.
 
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Old 01-02-19, 09:33 AM
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I find no power to the motor, or anywhere under the transformer box where the primary sends power to the transformer, motor, etc.

the R7184A is the newest thing in this whole boiler setup. do they just drop off the deep end?
is an intermittent no fire (my original problem) a symptom of a dying primary (I would have thought a weak transformer)?
 
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Old 01-02-19, 09:40 AM
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Is there power to the primary?
 
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Old 01-02-19, 10:52 AM
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well, the problem was the repairman (me), having limited knowledge.

the unit was in hard lock down. I tried the usual reset process which was to push reset button once quickly then, wait, and the unit would kick on.

I read the manual which said to hold the reset until it blinked, which took almost a minute. and when I did the burner came to life.

thank you both for your help !

Ed
 
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Old 01-03-19, 07:12 AM
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OK, It's up & running for now but it would seem you still have the intermittent problem. These things can be a real bear to track down. When it happens the next time, reset the primary & as soon as the burner fires, look at the flame. If it appears more yellow than normal, that indicates you are getting fuel but it's not igniting. Keep us up to speed on what's going on.
 
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Old 01-03-19, 08:36 AM
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yeah running, but now I have found a new problem. or an old problem coming back.

after cleaning the furnace and flu pipe, and getting the unit to run, I started smelling smoke around the furnace area. Not a lot, but more than normal. I looked in the combustion chamber and directly across from the burner, there is a tennis ball sized whole that goes several inches deep.

when I put my hand around the back of boiler, the outside of the tin was too hot to touch. I had patched that hole years ago, but all patch material is gone. I think the combustion
fumes are getting outside of the combustion chamber and getting around the tin of the boiler and into the air.

I have shut the boiler down. My question is, do I get the combustion chamber replaced or is it time to get a new boiler.

this one is 40 years old, with a burner that I presume is the same age. I am thinking of better fuel efficiency and less problems going forward with a new boiler.
what do you think?
 
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Old 01-03-19, 09:09 AM
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Forty years on a dry base boiler is a long time. I would certainly replace it.
 
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Old 01-03-19, 07:38 PM
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As Grady says and I agree 40 yrs. is a good run, especially for a steel boiler. It depends on your finances. You have as Grady said a dry base boiler which means there is no water surrounding the chamber so it's imperative to have a good firebox, since, as you know that is the only thing that keeps your fire from going through the back of the boiler.

That being said, if you are happy with the performance you are getting you can just replace the chamber and put a sheetmetal patch on the back of the boiler and you'll be good to go. If efficiency is your goal then it's time to upgrade.

Below is a sight you can go to see your options if you want to go the chamber root until a more convenient time or warmer weather. You shouldn't run it like it is though. That is carbon monoxide coming out of the back.

Lynn chambers - Guaranteed perfect fit chamber kit | Lynn Manufacturing

Hope this helps a little
 
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