New boiler does not get my water hot enough

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  #1  
Old 04-29-19, 12:53 PM
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New boiler does not get my water hot enough

Hello. I知 new to the site. I got a new hot water oil furnace 2 urs ago and it has never provided sufficient hot water. (My old furnace gave very hot water but in winter I often had to turn heat down so my water wouldn稚 be competing for heating of the house.) i can barely stand to shower since not hot enough though faucet turned all way to hot. I can稚 get a decent temp to even wash/rinse dishes to clean good enough. I had the company that out in my new furnace to come over several times telling them the water has not been hot enough ever since new furnace but they never get it fixed. They tell me the temp is as high as it can go but something is wrong... I should be able to get enough hot water to take a bath and to wash dishes so get clean. Can anyone help me.

Wishing I had paid better attention and learned some things from my deceased jack-of-all-trades husband
 
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Old 04-29-19, 01:50 PM
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L,
Some pics of the system would be very helpful. You should have a control that should prioritize your hot water. If it's possible to remove the cover on your control on the boiler when taking pics. Also number of zones and water temp in boiler. They may have the aquastat turned to low.

There is really no reason why a new BOILER should not supply enough hot water.

Hope this helps a little.
 

Last edited by spott; 04-29-19 at 03:43 PM.
  #3  
Old 04-29-19, 02:06 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I replaced furnace with boiler in the title.
Some picture posting help.... How-to-insert-pictures.
 
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Old 04-30-19, 10:26 AM
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Some pics of the system would be very helpful. You should have a control that should prioritize your hot water. If it's possible to remove the cover on your control on the boiler when taking pics. Also number of zones and water temp in boiler. They may have the aquastat turned to low.

There is really no reason why a new BOILER should not supply enough hot water.

Hope this helps a little.

Thank you so much! I will do that but,...I知 not sure where any of that that is. I知 not sure what you mean by 田over on your control on the boiler. There is a valve (?) with a knob (and the knob just turns and apparently they put a broken one on?) and this valve I was told increased or decreases hot water temp, which the people who put the furnace in told me was up as high as allowed to prevent burning from too hot of water. I asked them several times about my not getting hot enough water and they continued to tell me it痴 where it should be, and then they did say they still turned it up more anyhow but never any change. This has been going on for 2 yrs. The other day a friend... who doesn稚 know anything about furnaces...took the broken knob off where I was told increased or decreases the hot water temp and he turned it with plyers and though it will turn to lessen the temp it seems to be turned all the way for hotter.

I also don稚 know what you mean about zones. Sorry got my ignorance in this. Your help is so very appreciated.
 
  #5  
Old 04-30-19, 12:43 PM
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L,
If you could post some pics of your system the things that were mentioned can be identified. Pictures would be a good place to start.

That knob your are referring to is most likely on your mixing valve and not the control on the boiler, also did you check to see the temp on the boiler gauge.

When you have the tech over to check it you want to turn on the hot water only on the tub and have him see the results and go from there. You want to use the tub and not just a faucet because the tub is your biggest draw.
 
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Old 05-01-19, 05:14 AM
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Thank you! I知 out of town right now but going back tomorrow and going to take pics to upload and hopefully I will be able to find the boiler gauge... with your help 😀
Oh, a couple of times I did show them that the water coming out of tub faucet does not get hot... and each time never got result of sufficient hot water, and why I知 hoping I can try turning temp up myself to see if that is the problem. (One time their answer was that I may need a separate water tank heater to hold the hot water... but I never needed with my old furnace and I always had hot water and plenty of to take shower.)
 
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Old 05-01-19, 11:28 AM
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L,
Once you post the pics they will give a clearer view of what you have. I feel safe in saying though that if all you are looking for is sufficient hot water in the tub and you have a 2 yr. old boiler you should not be having these problems, especially where they didn't exist before. How is the hot water coming out of regular faucets. Is it hot enough and does it run out like the tub.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 06:32 AM
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Stand back and take a picture of the whole thing, and we'll circle the important parts.

Then you can zoom in and take pictures of the important parts.

There are so many things that could cause an issue. Without pictures, nobody will really be able to help you.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 03:26 PM
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My grandson took some pics including the temperature gauge but I don't think that I can send pics using the given instructions, as I don't think that I have an email browser?? On my computer I use firefox for the web but use my gmail.com for mail. Is there any other way to send a pic? Is there an email that I can send with attachment of the pics?
On the question are all of my faucets like the tub and don't give sufficient hot water, the answer is yes.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 04:03 PM
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You can post the pictures directly to the board. I left you the link in post 3. No email is required.
If you can't get them to post.... let me know. I'll give you an address to send them to.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 04:20 PM
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I found "Go Advanced" on message reply page on this site and going to try to get the pics on here. Two of the pics were too big and wouldn't let me upload.

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Last edited by PJmax; 05-02-19 at 04:31 PM. Reason: reoriented/resized pictures
  #12  
Old 05-02-19, 04:23 PM
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Thank you. I did get some pics to upload but don't know if good enough as the large full views wouldn't let me upload.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 04:31 PM
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The photo of the temp and pressure gauge is out of focus - can't read it.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 04:34 PM
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The gauge is showing about 165ー f and about 25psi.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 04:42 PM
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I see that. It is clear on my phone pic and download. Im going to zoom in more to see if that helps
 
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Old 05-02-19, 04:59 PM
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L,
If you could take a pic showing the whole front of the boiler from a pulled back position. They don't need to be that large unless trying to read numbers. If you could remove that grey cover on your aquastat which controls your boiler temp. You have 2 knobs in there for a high and low setting that are adjustable. Would like to know where those are set.

Your gauge shows about 170 which should be hot enough to supply you with sufficient hot water. I asked about the faucets to make sure it wasn't your shower valve which it isn't. Those boiler front pics would be helpful at this time.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 04:59 PM
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I edited the gauge pic and enlarged so hope this helps to see better the numbers.

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Last edited by PJmax; 05-02-19 at 08:01 PM. Reason: resized picture
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Old 05-02-19, 05:14 PM
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1. "If you could take a pic showing the whole front of the boiler from a pulled back position." "
2. "If you could remove that grey cover on your aquastat which controls your boiler temp. You have 2 knobs in there for a high and low setting that are adjustable. Would like to know where those are set."

1. I need to wait until my grandson comes over in about an hour to take that pic of pulled back view for me and so I can send to my puter to download and will post it.

2. Is the aquastat that smaller gray box in the pic I had sent (boiler pic 3) that is in front and above the large black box (that has Beckett on it) that I have the cover off of?
Thank you all again for helping.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 05:19 PM
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L,
Your gauge is reading about 25psi on the bottom of the gauge which is a little high. At 30 psi your relief valve will discharge water. If you could let a little water out of your boiler drain until the pressure gets down to about 18-20psi which is where you want it when the boiler is cold that would be good but that is not your hot water problem.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 05:23 PM
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That is the aquastat and if you could take that cover off you will see the knobs and where they are set. You want 180 for low and 200 for high to start and may be able to lower a little bit later. The higher settings are because of your tankless coil. It's output rating is figured at 180 water surrounding the coil.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 07:15 PM
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Here are more pics.
1. "That is the aquastat and if you could take that cover off you will see the knobs and where they are set."

2. "If you could let a little water out of your boiler drain until the pressure gets down to about 18-20psi which is where you want it when the boiler is cold that would be good but that is not your hot water problem."
-------
1. Can you tell me more of where the knobs are from the pic I'm sending with?

2. Oh dear, where is the boiler drain and do I turn a knob for that or will need a certain tool to do? I actually do know a "few" names of tools...from handing many times to my late husband when he was trying to fix stuff lol.

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Last edited by PJmax; 05-02-19 at 08:07 PM. Reason: reoriented/resized pictures
  #22  
Old 05-02-19, 08:12 PM
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The valve is in the third picture..... red handle down near the dryer
However...... this water will be HOT so be very careful.

I'm not sure on that Aquastat. It's electronic and set with the push buttons by the arrows.
There are no knobs in that model.
 
  #23  
Old 05-03-19, 10:22 AM
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Pressure is not excessive at that temperature. Deal with that later.

For now concentrate on the domestic hot water problem.

The blue and red pipes connect to a tankless coil inside the boiler. (Often referred to as a "thankless coil" due to multiple problems that can arise.) The blue pipe is cold water that enters the coil and is heated by hot water in the boiler. The red pipe is heated water that flows out to the house fixtures. Unless there is a leak in the coil the two hot waters are isolated and do not mix.

The boiler water must be kept at 150 degrees or above for the coil to work properly. Even then if the boiler cannot keep up as hot water is used the temperature of the water will be low.

Search for "tankless coil" on this forum to see the type of issues that may have to be dealt with--mineral deposits, excess flow, coil leaks, etc. to see if any apply to your situation.

The control you have is electronic. Pushing the "I" button will cycle the display through the settings like Bt for boiler temperature, Sp for set point, etc. Check your manual or Google for explanation of the settings.

Also look for a place where the blue and red pipes may be connected by a tempering valve that is set to prevent the hot water to fixtures from being too hot (a scalding safety issue.) That valve may need to be cleaned, reset or replaced if mineral deposits have built up.
 
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Old 05-03-19, 10:32 AM
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Looking thru the pictures..... this may be a tempering valve over your boiler.

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Old 05-03-19, 10:56 AM
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I don't think that is the tempering valve. That red pipe appears to be an open ended drop that shows at the left rear of the boiler in one of the photos. At first I thought it might be a boiler make-up into the top of the safety valve but the photos show the standard lift valve there. The tempering valve should be near the blue/red pipes coming out of the HW coil. Picture at the top of those pipes is inconclusive. (Post #4 appears to say that the tempering valve is turned all the way to hot.)

In re-reading the original post I see that the problem is not new and has been a problem since the new boiler was installed. From that I would conclude that the "thankless" coil is just not able to handle the required demand. Not surprising since newer boilers contain less water than older ones so the reservoir of hot water to heat the coil is smaller. Two years seems too soon for scaling or mineral deposits unless the water supply is really bad.

A hot water storage tank or an indirect tank may be needed. (see Post #6.)
 

Last edited by 2john02458; 05-03-19 at 11:25 AM.
  #26  
Old 05-03-19, 12:12 PM
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L,
A pic of that circled area would be helpful and also pics of the blue and red pipes from the tankless to where they go and connect to the system and where that red pipe ends from the circled area.

My guess that valve may be your backflow preventer which has no bearing on your problem. I have yet to see that valve with the defective knob you mentioned. A pic of that would be helpful.

Your aquastat is electronic and has no knobs but must be done by the buttons and there is a procedure for that.

As for 2johns statement as I mentioned the pressure, although higher than normal, at this time is not dangerous but was mentioned because at 30psi your relief valve will release scalding hot water and it is easier and safer to lower it a little before that happens but it also has nothing to do with your problem. As for his tankless comment, a 2 yr. old boiler w/ tankless should have no problem with getting sufficient hot water for a bath or out of a faucet. I would not consider another option just yet.

My guess is your whole problem of lack of hot water is because the way your tankless is piped. What you can try is to turn on the hot water on your tub and at the tankless coil feel the hot water pipe coming right out of the coil, most likely the red pipe but could be either at this point. That pipe should be very hot right out of the coil. See how long that pip stays hot. If it cools down then your problem is at the coil level. If that pipe stays hot and your tub water is cooling down then you must follow the pipe in the basement to see what it connects to.

As a side note in my opinion that tankless piping is terrible and not even up to code. You need a T&P valve for safety and at least in MA it's code.

You may want to get your grandson to help you with this. It will take 2 people. 1 up and 1 down at the boiler.

Below is a sight with pics and info on your backflow preventer and controls that may be helpful.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-AP...BoClNYQAvD_BwE

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Mixing-Valves-322000

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dual-Checks-1621000

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...ronic-Aquastat

The aquastat sight, if you scroll to install instructions it will show you how to adjust temp if you need to. It's good info.
 

Last edited by spott; 05-03-19 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 05-05-19, 10:38 AM
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I知 away out of town right now but when I get back I知 going to take more pics suggested and also try to see if I can do some of those possibilities mentioned. Any of you live near Bedford Pa lol
 
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Old 05-05-19, 04:16 PM
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Litrn,
Nice try. lol.
 
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Old 05-06-19, 08:27 AM
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The boiler is heating the water hot enough (as seen in the gauge photo).

But obviously 170 degree water is not coming out of the faucets.

So that means it's the hot water is being cooled down.

So my guess is that you probably have a valve that mixes cold water so that the water coming out of your faucets doesn't scald you. Maybe it's the valve you are describing here:

Originally Posted by Litrn
There is a valve (?) with a knob (and the knob just turns and apparently they put a broken one on?) and this valve I was told increased or decreases hot water temp, which the people who put the furnace in told me was up as high as allowed to prevent burning from too hot of water. I asked them several times about my not getting hot enough water and they continued to tell me it痴 where it should be, and then they did say they still turned it up more anyhow but never any change. This has been going on for 2 yrs. The other day a friend... who doesn稚 know anything about furnaces...took the broken knob off where I was told increased or decreases the hot water temp and he turned it with plyers and though it will turn to lessen the temp it seems to be turned all the way for hotter.
Please take a photo of this valve, but not so close that we can't see the pipes leading to it. It does no good to see a close-up image of a valve. We need to see how the pipes are routing the water.

Originally Posted by Litrn
I had the company that out in my new furnace to come over several times telling them the water has not been hot enough ever since new furnace but they never get it fixed. They tell me the temp is as high as it can go but something is wrong...
These technicians have only been looking at the boiler itself and not any of the pipes or valves coming out of it?? If we can't help, then perhaps consider hiring a different plumber.

By the way, this is a boiler not a furnace: Boilers heat water. Furnaces heat air.
 
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Old 05-06-19, 09:14 AM
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Spott, can稚 blame a gal for trying lol 😉
 
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Old 05-06-19, 09:23 AM
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Electric_dummy,
鉄o my guess is that you probably have a valve that mixes cold water so that the water coming out of your faucets doesn't scald you. Maybe it's the valve you are describing here:

whrn a friend tried to turn that valve (that appears to be the mixing valve, and is broken) he could turn it cooler using a wrench but when went towards warmer, it would only go as far as it was and didn稚 change the problem with not hot enough water.) is is possible that those who put in my boiler and furnace( I call it both as the system both heats my house and my water) put in some safety valve that only allows a certain temp of hot but that for my house it isn稚 sufficient to heat my water enough?? I remember when I壇 complain to my late husband that our water got too hot and I壇 have to be remember to not burn myself with the old boiler, he壇 always tell me that it had to be in order for ???? ( I can稚 trmeber why lol). I should致e paid more attention lol )
 
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Old 05-06-19, 11:27 AM
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L,
This is just to explain the difference between a BOILER and a FURNACE. They are both used to heat the house. A Boiler heats water to heat the house. A FURNACE heats air and delivers that heated air through metal ductwork.

A boiler can heat domestic water (faucet) through a coil like you have in your boiler but a furnace cannot and needs a separate hot water heat for your domestic hot water.

Because your boiler water is 170 that does not mean your faucet water is 170. That 170 boiler water is what goes through your baseboard heaters to heat your house and also heats the coil and transfer that heat to the cold water entering your coil which is separate from your heating water.

This is probably more than you want to know but posted below is a pic of a hot water coil similar to yours and a variety of others.

https://www.tfi-everhot.com/pdfs/TFI_TanklessCoils.pdf

If you scroll to BURNHAM round V7 & V8 you will see your coil.
 
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Old 05-07-19, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Litrn
I remember when I’d complain to my late husband that our water got too hot and I’d have to be remember to not burn myself with the old boiler, he’d always tell me that it had to be in order for ???? ( I can’t trmeber why lol). I should’ve paid more attention lol )
That is because your single boiler heats your domestic hot water and your hydronic baseboard heating.

Your baseboard heat must be very hot to work properly (like 180 degrees).

But if 180 degree water came out of your sink or shower, you would burn yourself.

So that's why cold water is mixed back in... To cool it back down to a reasonable temperature, so that near boiling water isn't pouring out of your taps.

This valve you keep describing (no photos yet) might be the problem. I would suggest that you have someone look at it.
 
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Old 05-18-19, 01:27 PM
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Thanks Spott.., I now understand (boiler vs furnace)

 
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Old 05-18-19, 01:39 PM
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Thanks Electric_dummy,
Sorry taking me so long...I was out of town helping a friend who broke their foot and I知 just now back at my house to take other pics (incl of the mixing valve(?). I知 going to send these pics in a little bit when I get to my computer so can do.

灯So my guess is that you probably have a valve that mixes cold water so that the water coming out of your faucets doesn't scald you. Maybe it's the valve you are describing here:

努hrn a friend tried to turn that valve (that appears to be the mixing valve, and is broken) he could turn it cooler using a wrench but when went towards warmer, it would only go as far as it was and didn稚 change the problem with not hot enough water.) is is possible that those who put in my boiler and furnace( I call it both as the system both heats my house and my water) put in some safety valve that only allows a certain temp of hot but that for my house it isn稚 sufficient to heat my water enough??粕
 
  #36  
Old 05-18-19, 04:49 PM
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This is a new boiler, so call back the installer or whoever sold it to you.
 
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Old 05-18-19, 05:00 PM
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Gilmore, I tried for 2 yrs. They never get it fixed.
 
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Old 05-19-19, 02:16 PM
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Thank you all so much for your patience and help! I'm going to try again to add the more pics asked for (that broken knob valve) and whole boiler system pics)

Electric_dummy,
you said about may be that valve (the one that I was saying about earlier..with the knob that is broken but with plyers able to turn towards colder but won't turn any further than has been for hotter...and why i was wondering if they may have some setting not hot enough for my house, or not a good mixing valve for my system, or the valve is not working as should??) . I don't know if this tells something bt when I first turn the hot water on in my bathroom sink the water is hot but no more than about 2 seconds and then goes and stays at about room temp or not much more than rm temp. does this give any possible answers?
 
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Old 05-20-19, 11:10 AM
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Below is a sight to get some info on your mixing valve also known as a tempering valve so don't be confused by the name.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-05...-120176-160176

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Mixing-Valves-322000

https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contr...mpering+valves

The first one is what you have now. The second are different options. The third is the valve and the repair kit for it and different Watts brand valves.

In the first one if you scroll down it will explain how it should be installed which may be your problem. I left you a message.
 
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