Want opinion on leaving stuck open zone valve in place

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  #1  
Old 09-10-19, 12:11 PM
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Want opinion on leaving stuck open zone valve in place

I have hot water baseboard heat in my home home with three zones - 1st floor, 2nd floor and basement. the basement is partially finished and under served with a short run of baseboard on one wall. It manages to keep the area at about 62 - 65 degrees in very cold weather. If I set the thermostat to 68 or above the boiler seemed to stay on constantly.

At the end of last years heating season the zone valve for the basement started sticking open even when the thermostat reached set temp. I went downstairs and found the temp reading at 68 and a bit higher making it more comfortable. I figure that even though that thermo is not calling for heat, since the zone valve is stuck open, when 1st or 2nd floor calls for heat , hot water is also being pumped through the basement.

I'm experienced in replacing zone valves so its no problem for me to do it but I'm think maybe I should keep it this way to keep the basement warmer. It ran this way for about 3 weeks before I shut down the system in the spring. It didn't seem like the system was struggling to warm the other two floors. Any opinions? It makes sense for me to replace the valve now before I turn on the system for the winter.

Thanks for any input.
 
  #2  
Old 09-10-19, 12:21 PM
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Leaving the valve open and receiving some residual heat from a heat call for zone 1 or 2 should be ok.

One problem.... is the circulator tied to that zone valve ?
You wouldn't want that to run continuously.
 
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Old 09-10-19, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply.
I didn't think of that. I will try to check that tonight and will report back.

That "little guy" that pops up on your shoulder when you try something like this had been telling me to put it back the way it is designed to work!
 
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Old 09-13-19, 03:33 PM
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You might able to replace the motor only. Depending on the brand, it's not that hard.
There probably a video on U tube. Even if you have to buy the whole unit, which is not much more, and the motor slips off, one or two screws. Make sure it goes on the same way as the old power head.
Sid
 
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Old 09-14-19, 07:43 AM
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Thank you pjmax and sidny for the info.
I ran the system yesterday morning and the thermostat reached request temp. And the contact arm did not stick, the spring pulled the arm and the valve worked as it should. tried it on and off a few times. I guess the "rest" over the summer has it working correctly.
I did watch one video on youtube that give a good explanation of the operation and it looks like if the contact is stuck on that the circulating pump would constantly be energized so I'm going to replace the valve.
I did consider switching the electronics off of the new valve as you suggest but it's not a big deal for me to open the piping and replace the entire valve.
 
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Old 09-15-19, 08:48 AM
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It would help to know the brand and model of valve.
 
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Old 09-18-19, 10:02 PM
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As suggested by sidny, I found the Honeywell replacement motor for the valve and installed it so I didn't have to open up the plumbing part. Simple to replace in about two minutes and the valve is working as it should.
Thanks for the advice.
 
 

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