Beckett Burner Issues
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Beckett Burner Issues
Beckett Burner IssuesHi all,
Newbie to the site, but I'm looking forward to learning from the thousands of years' worth of experience here. I have a Beckett AFG burner, with a Beckett 7505 relay, and an oil supplied heating system. The heat isn't working. I have reset the power with the service cut off switch, watched the relay start up with all the lights staying on for one second, and then nothing. I'll demand heat and nothing. No cycling, no anything. I have 1/4 tank's worth of oil, which having (2) 275 tanks, equates to a little over 100 gallons. I opened the fuel line to the furnace and did confirm there was a supply to the system. I replaced the relay, with no success. I disconnected the motor and connected it to power. It ran fine. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Newbie to the site, but I'm looking forward to learning from the thousands of years' worth of experience here. I have a Beckett AFG burner, with a Beckett 7505 relay, and an oil supplied heating system. The heat isn't working. I have reset the power with the service cut off switch, watched the relay start up with all the lights staying on for one second, and then nothing. I'll demand heat and nothing. No cycling, no anything. I have 1/4 tank's worth of oil, which having (2) 275 tanks, equates to a little over 100 gallons. I opened the fuel line to the furnace and did confirm there was a supply to the system. I replaced the relay, with no success. I disconnected the motor and connected it to power. It ran fine. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
#2
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Confirm proper voyage to the primary with your meter.
Is this a boiler running off of an aquastat? A furnace running off of a thermostat? What’s between the T terminals?
Is this a boiler running off of an aquastat? A furnace running off of a thermostat? What’s between the T terminals?
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That was confirmed yesterday. Furnace running off a thermostat. Two ecobee thermostats in two zones running forced air, and the basement has an old school dial running baseboards. There is piece of copper jumping them to themselves.
#6
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No, the high voltage input.
It runs in the back.
Typical furnace wiring | Beckett 7505 User Manual | Page 7 / 12
It runs in the back.
Typical furnace wiring | Beckett 7505 User Manual | Page 7 / 12
#10
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It doesn’t sound as if your calling for heat. You said you had 2 thermostats. What zoning control are you using?
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The one downstairs is a Honeywell. The call for heat has been on for 20+ mins, and the display of the contractors tool is showing standby for 22 mins. But it does seem like there is no call coming through to the burner. Which is why I had originally replaced the relay.
#13
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You said this is a forced air furnace, right?
A furnace would have nothing to do with baseboard heating.
A furnace would have nothing to do with baseboard heating.
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Soooooo....Therein “may” be an issue? Ex Father in law installed a new electric hot water heater to supply water during the summer months instead of using oil to heat it in the summer. I’m trying to both trace lines and call him to see if he connected the new tank to the baseboards. I know the basement has baseboards. The upstairs, however, is definitely forced air. Vents in the floors and tops of the walls in the bedroom.
#15
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What you are describing is a boiler.
Do you have hot water coils in the air handlers?
Post a picture of your setup.
Do you have hot water coils in the air handlers?
Post a picture of your setup.
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Here is a pic of the old boiler. While I'm waiting my 180 seconds for the next photo, here is what I have and what I think...the boiler had all the valves closed, including a supply line. There are four valves. A supply and return line to the furnace and heating system, a supply line for the water throughout the house, and a supply line to fill the heater. The line that runs out of the top of the heater, which I am assuming was the supply line that gave hot water to the house, was cut and never recapped. The supply line with feeds the boiler with new water, as well as the other two lines connected to the furnace, were all closed. When I went to open them all, since the line on top wasn't capped which I'm assuming sent hot water to the house, as the tank was supplied with new water, water came out of the uncapped line. I'm going to cap that and try again. In this pic, the two valves in front are supply/return for the boiler. The bottom valve is the supply to fill the boiler. On top, and not really visible, is the line that is cut and not capped, which I am assuming fed the house. I think the father in law just didn't finish the job fully when he was done. He's 80...lol...
Last edited by PJmax; 10-22-19 at 05:43 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
#18
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That’s a water heater, not a boiler, and probably isn’t the reason your burner isn’t starting.
The second picture is of your boiler.
Check the aquastat. See if it’s closing to start the burner.
The second picture is of your boiler.
Check the aquastat. See if it’s closing to start the burner.
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Settings on the aquastat:
low temp is 156
high temp is 190
Z/I switch is in “I” indirect
economy was off
I changed the setting to:
low temp off
high temp 190
Z/I switch to “Z”
economy to 3 (three zones, two upstairs, one down)
low temp is 156
high temp is 190
Z/I switch is in “I” indirect
economy was off
I changed the setting to:
low temp off
high temp 190
Z/I switch to “Z”
economy to 3 (three zones, two upstairs, one down)
Last edited by RI Pete; 10-22-19 at 01:17 PM.
#23
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There will be contacts inside that turn the burner on and off. See if they are getting power and see if they are open or closed.
#25
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Do you have a pump control center? Or is it just the single circulator pump?
I only see one set of control wires coming into the aquastat. That’s where the burner and pump by the boiler should be commanded on and off.
I only see one set of control wires coming into the aquastat. That’s where the burner and pump by the boiler should be commanded on and off.
#26
Thread moved to the boiler forums.
Do you have a voltmeter ?
Check for 120vAC on the service switch in the right hand picture.
There may be another service switch shut off somewhere.
Do you have a voltmeter ?
Check for 120vAC on the service switch in the right hand picture.
There may be another service switch shut off somewhere.
#27
Hi, if you put a jumper across the 2 terminals to the top left of that control the burner should fire up
Geo
Geo
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I only have the one circulator pump.
There isn't another switch, I'm 99% sure, but will check the voltage.
Do I disconnect the wires that are on there to jump it? What will that do if it does fire up?
Thanks all...
There isn't another switch, I'm 99% sure, but will check the voltage.
Do I disconnect the wires that are on there to jump it? What will that do if it does fire up?
Thanks all...
#29
The boiler should start and run as if the Tstat is calling for heat, also I see in the pic what looks like 3 switches that are all OFF, what are they for?
Geo
Geo
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Yes, the boiler should start, but it isn't. Checked power to the aquastat...119V. relay powers up, shows the lights for a second, then nothing.
The switches you see in the background are left over from the previous owners old system.
Also, isn't firing up when jumped.
The switches you see in the background are left over from the previous owners old system.
Also, isn't firing up when jumped.
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OK...so here's the latest.
Aquastat...powers up, lights are good, 119V heading to the relay
Relay changed out to a new one.
Tested/cleaned cadeye
ran motor straight to power and it works
Obviously something isn't working between the aquastat and relay, right? Not telling it to ignite?
Aquastat...powers up, lights are good, 119V heading to the relay
Relay changed out to a new one.
Tested/cleaned cadeye
ran motor straight to power and it works
Obviously something isn't working between the aquastat and relay, right? Not telling it to ignite?