Beckett Burner Issues
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Beckett Burner Issues
Beckett Burner IssuesHi all,
Newbie to the site, but I'm looking forward to learning from the thousands of years' worth of experience here. I have a Beckett AFG burner, with a Beckett 7505 relay, and an oil supplied heating system. The heat isn't working. I have reset the power with the service cut off switch, watched the relay start up with all the lights staying on for one second, and then nothing. I'll demand heat and nothing. No cycling, no anything. I have 1/4 tank's worth of oil, which having (2) 275 tanks, equates to a little over 100 gallons. I opened the fuel line to the furnace and did confirm there was a supply to the system. I replaced the relay, with no success. I disconnected the motor and connected it to power. It ran fine. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Newbie to the site, but I'm looking forward to learning from the thousands of years' worth of experience here. I have a Beckett AFG burner, with a Beckett 7505 relay, and an oil supplied heating system. The heat isn't working. I have reset the power with the service cut off switch, watched the relay start up with all the lights staying on for one second, and then nothing. I'll demand heat and nothing. No cycling, no anything. I have 1/4 tank's worth of oil, which having (2) 275 tanks, equates to a little over 100 gallons. I opened the fuel line to the furnace and did confirm there was a supply to the system. I replaced the relay, with no success. I disconnected the motor and connected it to power. It ran fine. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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That was confirmed yesterday. Furnace running off a thermostat. Two ecobee thermostats in two zones running forced air, and the basement has an old school dial running baseboards. There is piece of copper jumping them to themselves.
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When I checked it, it was 24.
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No, the high voltage input.
It runs in the back.
Typical furnace wiring | Beckett 7505 User Manual | Page 7 / 12
It runs in the back.
Typical furnace wiring | Beckett 7505 User Manual | Page 7 / 12
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OK...so I just got back home after purchasing a contractor's tool. It is showing ohms greater than 50, and 114/115 volts...
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It is a furnace. Only used for heating with oil.
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I have two ecobee controls upstairs for two zones, and an old school dial downstairs which controls the temp for baseboard heating. I’ve got all three calling for heat.
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The one downstairs is a Honeywell. The call for heat has been on for 20+ mins, and the display of the contractors tool is showing standby for 22 mins. But it does seem like there is no call coming through to the burner. Which is why I had originally replaced the relay.
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Soooooo....Therein “may” be an issue? Ex Father in law installed a new electric hot water heater to supply water during the summer months instead of using oil to heat it in the summer. I’m trying to both trace lines and call him to see if he connected the new tank to the baseboards. I know the basement has baseboards. The upstairs, however, is definitely forced air. Vents in the floors and tops of the walls in the bedroom.
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Here is a pic of the old boiler. While I'm waiting my 180 seconds for the next photo, here is what I have and what I think...the boiler had all the valves closed, including a supply line. There are four valves. A supply and return line to the furnace and heating system, a supply line for the water throughout the house, and a supply line to fill the heater. The line that runs out of the top of the heater, which I am assuming was the supply line that gave hot water to the house, was cut and never recapped. The supply line with feeds the boiler with new water, as well as the other two lines connected to the furnace, were all closed. When I went to open them all, since the line on top wasn't capped which I'm assuming sent hot water to the house, as the tank was supplied with new water, water came out of the uncapped line. I'm going to cap that and try again. In this pic, the two valves in front are supply/return for the boiler. The bottom valve is the supply to fill the boiler. On top, and not really visible, is the line that is cut and not capped, which I am assuming fed the house. I think the father in law just didn't finish the job fully when he was done. He's 80...lol...

Last edited by PJmax; 10-22-19 at 06:43 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
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Here is a pic of the furnace.
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Nothing is happening with it when I call for heat. No clicks, lights, or beeps.
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What should I check for? It's showing the temp at 66, set at 190.
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Settings on the aquastat:
low temp is 156
high temp is 190
Z/I switch is in “I” indirect
economy was off
I changed the setting to:
low temp off
high temp 190
Z/I switch to “Z”
economy to 3 (three zones, two upstairs, one down)
low temp is 156
high temp is 190
Z/I switch is in “I” indirect
economy was off
I changed the setting to:
low temp off
high temp 190
Z/I switch to “Z”
economy to 3 (three zones, two upstairs, one down)
Last edited by RI Pete; 10-22-19 at 02:17 PM.
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Here's what it looks like...Also, I can't begin to thank you enough. Where are you located? If I'm ever within 100 miles, I've got a bottle of scotch with your name on it...
#25
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Do you have a pump control center? Or is it just the single circulator pump?
I only see one set of control wires coming into the aquastat. That’s where the burner and pump by the boiler should be commanded on and off.
I only see one set of control wires coming into the aquastat. That’s where the burner and pump by the boiler should be commanded on and off.
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Do you have a voltmeter ?
Check for 120vAC on the service switch in the right hand picture.
There may be another service switch shut off somewhere.
Do you have a voltmeter ?
Check for 120vAC on the service switch in the right hand picture.
There may be another service switch shut off somewhere.
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I only have the one circulator pump.
There isn't another switch, I'm 99% sure, but will check the voltage.
Do I disconnect the wires that are on there to jump it? What will that do if it does fire up?
Thanks all...
There isn't another switch, I'm 99% sure, but will check the voltage.
Do I disconnect the wires that are on there to jump it? What will that do if it does fire up?
Thanks all...
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Yes, the boiler should start, but it isn't. Checked power to the aquastat...119V. relay powers up, shows the lights for a second, then nothing.
The switches you see in the background are left over from the previous owners old system.
Also, isn't firing up when jumped.
The switches you see in the background are left over from the previous owners old system.
Also, isn't firing up when jumped.
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OK...so here's the latest.
Aquastat...powers up, lights are good, 119V heading to the relay
Relay changed out to a new one.
Tested/cleaned cadeye
ran motor straight to power and it works
Obviously something isn't working between the aquastat and relay, right? Not telling it to ignite?
Aquastat...powers up, lights are good, 119V heading to the relay
Relay changed out to a new one.
Tested/cleaned cadeye
ran motor straight to power and it works
Obviously something isn't working between the aquastat and relay, right? Not telling it to ignite?
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Sorry....it's a Hydrostat. 3250.
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So I followed the troubleshooting guide on the Hydrostat...looks like that isn't the problem...I'm gonna cave and call someone in. Thanks for the advice!
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