utica boiler short cycle

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  #1  
Old 12-20-19, 10:34 AM
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utica boiler short cycle

I have a home with utica dv150b for a single family home.
I am new to the home and I dont think it is running correctly.
It has an L 4080 b 1212 aquastat that kicks off the boiler at 180 water temp. Circulating pump still runs.
The problem is my house still calls for heat and It will short cycle all night long . On for 2 mins off for 5 on for 2 off for 5 on for 2 off again and so on....I dont think thats nor good nor normal.
So my question is this... What can i do here to let this boiler run longer. My old home setup was the boiler would not kick off until the thermostat was satisfied.
 
  #2  
Old 12-20-19, 02:24 PM
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K,
Your boiler might be a little oversized for your home which means it is heating the water faster than it is being used which lets the boiler reach the high limit shutting the boiler off while your pump still runs sending hot water through the baseboards until the stat is satisfied. As the water temp drops in the boiler it will come back on as long as the stat is still calling.

Pics and info on your control settings and boiler would be more helpful to see what you have.

If your boiler in the other ran until the stat was satisfied it could have been sized better.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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Old 12-20-19, 04:34 PM
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It turns off at 180 , what does it turn back on at? It could be as simple as the differential is set too close together.
 
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Old 12-20-19, 06:01 PM
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Have no idea what it turns back on at. Whatever it is set to turn back on at. That is why pics would be helpful if possible. There should be a 20 deg. difference between hi & low temps. If it shuts off at 180 it should turn back on at 160.
 
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Old 12-20-19, 10:49 PM
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google search shows that the aquastat has an 8 degree difference. so it would turn back on at 172
 
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Old 12-21-19, 07:36 AM
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What it should turn on at and what it does may be different. Also like spott said is should be 20 degrees
 
  #7  
Old 12-21-19, 11:39 AM
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Your L 4080 b 1212 aquastat is a HIGH LIMIT aquastat only. Forget the differential. That is not going to get you what you want. Somewhere on that boiler is most likely another operating control.

As was mentioned previously pics would help greatly if you can't locate it.
 
  #8  
Old 12-21-19, 12:10 PM
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Pictures are always a big help...... How-to-insert-pictures.

The following link should be the manual for that boiler. It shows a hi temp stat only.
Page 33 discusses system operation.
Utica DVB series boilers
 
  #9  
Old 12-21-19, 01:33 PM
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As PJ pointed out your boiler has just that 1 aquastat so it is what it is. You can try adjusting the differential to it's highest setting and see when it comes on and shuts off. It should give you a little wider span but the short version is you have a basic cold start boiler.
 
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Old 12-21-19, 06:04 PM
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Here are some pictures of the boiler
There are 3 zones, one Pump,
Also the aquastat on the boiler does not have a dial to adjust the differential, only a hi limit... but i do see a box mounted on top running from the boiler. Not sure what that is?

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Last edited by PJmax; 12-21-19 at 08:19 PM. Reason: resized pictures
  #11  
Old 12-21-19, 07:03 PM
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The differential is preset and cannot be adjusted. Someone mentioned it is 8f. Others 4080B's are 20f up to 50f depending on tail numbers. The boiler is oversized since most boilers are close to 100% oversized.
 
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Old 12-21-19, 08:20 PM
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The 4" square (1900) box on top of the boiler is the transformer that runs the zone valves.
 
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Old 12-21-19, 08:31 PM
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ok so i am assuming my setup does not have an adjustable differential?
Should I just change the aquastat to something with a higher differential as this one is set to 8 degrees different from hi temp
 
  #14  
Old 12-22-19, 10:41 PM
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Is anyone able to help me with this short cycle issue?
Boiler is running for almost all day and not really heating the house much. it takes hours just to get the house temp up a few degrees.
 
  #15  
Old 12-23-19, 08:29 AM
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If your boiler is at 180 and cycling with the circulator running, then your heat issue isn't the boiler. When type of heat emitters do you have? If it's baseboard, make sure the area around them isn't obstructing the flow of air. Curtains, carpet, furniture, etc, also be sure the baseboards are clean. Home insulation and air sealing is also an area you should be looking at. If you want to increase the cycle time, consider replacing the aqua-stat with an updated controller.
 
  #16  
Old 12-24-19, 06:50 AM
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Kerrmite's L4080 b 1212 aquastat is archaic and limited. The problem here could be dealt with more effectively using a modern $158 Tekmar aquastat with out-door-reset. It has digital displays with 1 degree accuracy.

Tekmar has separate settings for water temperature and Delta-T. There are other menus to optimize control for a particular building. Some have a special short cycle menu.

On DIY,com often see threads trying to solve issues with old controls/equipment when low priced, new technology ones would be far more effective and reduce fuel cost

ODR's for $158 save up to 20%. On a $1,000 fuel bill that is $200 every year. Over the years that adds up to significant savings.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Tekmar-2...iler-4150000-p

https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyho...56-install.pdf
 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-24-19 at 09:26 AM. Reason: removed DIY link
  #17  
Old 12-24-19, 11:17 AM
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If no obstructions on the baseboard air flow try increasing the water temperature to 200F if the home is not heating well.
 
 

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