Click..Hmmm, click..hmmm, click..hmmm?

Reply

  #41  
Old 03-01-20, 06:42 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I was just checking out the aquastat (Honeywell Intelligent Oil Boiler control). Mine has ZR, L1, L2, C2, B2, C1, and ZC. Nothing on ZR. L1 through C1 are all prewired from the factory, but the AC Mains are going to L1, L2. I use ZC for the AC control to the radiant heat motor relay. Just for info.
 
Sponsored Links
  #42  
Old 03-01-20, 09:45 AM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,247
Received 23 Votes on 21 Posts
I understand your frustration, been there. I'm really suspecting a problem with the aquastat or power to the aquastat. Both the circulator & 7505 are powered thru the aquastat.
Check the line voltage wiring all the way back to the breaker panel if need be. Pay particular attention to where wires join in junction or switch boxes. Turn off the breaker for your own safety before messing with any line voltage wiring.
 
  #43  
Old 03-01-20, 11:42 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yeah, I went back through the wiring and re-set the white wires which I forgot to do last time. No joy yet. I just now replaced the Becket motor, just throwing parts at it now. I still think the B&G issue and the hum-click are related. I put a 3 wire wire plug on the B&G on the bench, ground, neutral and hot, and it works fine plugging it into a duplex outlet. Starts fine and draws 1.7A.

I do have an unconventional setup. The ZC terminal goes to a 5VDC transformer that is switched through the radiant heat thermostats, which in turn energizes a SS AC relay that's switches the mains to run/stop the B&G/Taco. It's not a conventional Honeywell R845 or similar relay. Also the main AC is switched through another SS AC relay, beyond the boiler service switch, that is subject to a smoke detector. If the smoke detector goes off, the relay opens, shutting off AC to the boiler. I had trouble with my old V8 smoking sometimes.

I just don't understand the 12A that the B&G wants to draw when it's in the circuit. That one really has me stumped. It could get real tiresome switching in and out pumps to try to figure it out.

Then there's the hum-click that's been pretty consistent today. Once it even clicked about 5 times, quit and then tried again finally starting. That's telling me that there's some resistance in the AC circuit somewhere and start voltage is low because of the initial current draw. I may try jumping that smoke detector relay. Everything is suspect at this point.

It just now started up fine with the new motor by turning on the hot water.
 
  #44  
Old 03-01-20, 01:17 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,956
Received 41 Votes on 39 Posts
DT,
Just a thought about your B & G pump. When testing on the bench you are running the motor with no load. When installed you are under a load moving water through a valute causing more strain on a possibly weak motor.
 
  #45  
Old 03-01-20, 01:54 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,247
Received 23 Votes on 21 Posts
That's a long shot but maybe. Installed, did you run it with the cord?
 
  #46  
Old 03-01-20, 04:27 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes, when I first installed it right after the seal kit replacement it ran fine for a few minutes until call for heat went off. Next time it tried to start it wouldn't. On the bench it works fine with proper 3 wire grounded plug, 1.7A draw.

I'm sorta wondering if the SS relay I have for the smoke detector may be defective. I've bypassed it for now and I haven't had any hum-click. I'll pull it off and do some testing on it. I'm also going to make up a 3 wire jumper to wire the B&G into the circuit so I don't have to keep switching it out with the flanges and test it that way. I can't imagine the water is keeping it from running but stranger things have happened. But maybe testing with the smoke relay out and the 3 wire jumper, if it works that nearly for sure will tell me something.

I just wish I could get over this, it's getting old. I actually have other things I'd like to do. I'll probably get depressed if I get it fixed.
 
  #47  
Old 03-01-20, 05:18 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,247
Received 23 Votes on 21 Posts
I was wondering about the relay myself. What is the load rating on the relay?
 
  #48  
Old 03-01-20, 05:42 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Magnecraft W6125DSX-1 25A 120VAC. The one for the motor of course is going on/off with the thermo and the one for the smoke detector is on all the time, it's between the service switch and the stairs switch. I could check the voltage drop across them, they're pretty accessible. Control voltage for them is 3-32VDC. I use a couple wall warts for them.

Can I use the AC volts from ZC instead of the mains to run the motor? Right now I'm using ZC to control the wall wart and switching the mains to the motor. It's hard to figure out what the current rating on the aquastat zones are.

I haven't heard any hum-click since I've changed things, but.......

Actually the stairs switch is just a 12-3 going to a switch and both wires are hot coming back down to the mains, so actually the smoke relay is the last thing in line towards the main breaker.
 
  #49  
Old 03-01-20, 07:58 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,956
Received 41 Votes on 39 Posts
DT,
Your boiler wiring is just a series circuit from the breaker panel to your upstairs switch back down to your firomatic over the boiler to the service switch on the boiler and then to the controls. Somewhere you said you have a smoke detector which by at least MA code cannot be done. The boiler must be on its own circuit with nothing else included.
 
  #50  
Old 03-02-20, 06:35 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
That's not the way mine got wired. The wire from the panel goes directly down to the boiler area where there's a board with a duplex outlet, a service switch and a board for the smoke detector and the radiant heat zone control. Back when this was put in, the early 80's, I doubt if the electrical inspector even looked at it. Inspections then were almost 'optional' and the county only had one inspector. Be that as it may, the service switch and the switch at the stairway are just 12-3 wires to the switches to break the hot wire in the duplex outlet that feeds the boiler. It may not be 'code', but that's the way it is and it does function. I did have a licensed electrician wire the house but I would have done a few things differently.

This afternoon when I have time I'm going to check out that smoke detector relay. it's bypassed for now. I'm thinking that's been my whole issue all along.
 
  #51  
Old 03-02-20, 07:03 AM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,247
Received 23 Votes on 21 Posts
Not being an electrician, I'm not sure about "code" as it pertains to your application but I do know duct mounted smoke detectors are often wired to shut down the HVAC equipment. Nuff said about that.

If the smoke detector relay is by-passed & things are working as they should, I would tend to agree that this particular relay is likely the source of the problem.
 
  #52  
Old 03-02-20, 11:58 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yeah, I wired in the B&G, without water, and it ran fine without the relay in the circuit. Put the relay back in and it wouldn't start and drew 10A. I'm thinking when the impeller got stuck and wouldn't start it damaged that SSR.

Anyhow I think there are better options out there now for a HVAC shutdown, I'll look around.

I reckon I'll slip the B&G back in and try it out for real, it only takes me about 20 minutes.

Thanks for all the hints and help guys. Unless you hear from me again on this thread, it's fixed.

edit: Later: yup, it's running with water in the system. Now hopefully that's fixed the hum-click to. I haven't heard that for 2 days now.
 

Last edited by DogTo; 03-02-20 at 12:25 PM.
  #53  
Old 03-02-20, 05:50 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,247
Received 23 Votes on 21 Posts
DT,
I hope the click-Hummm poltergeist has been exorcised. But count not thy chickens before they hatch. Good Luck
 
  #54  
Old 03-02-20, 05:54 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes, I may put the original burner motor back in tomorrow. I'm hoping it was the relay keeping the starting current from allowing a good start, on all the motors. We'll eventually see, at least I'll have warmer weather to see and not worry about the boiler quitting on the coldest day of the year.
 
  #55  
Old 03-16-20, 03:16 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Follow up on results after 2 weeks. So far haven't heard any of the problems from before, but I do notice the control for the blower/oil pump does seem to go through a sort of start up clicking. I'm thinking that's normal. The whole issue may have been the B&G locked up, damaging the smoke detector SS relay producing a higher than normal resistance in it which also affected the start up for the blower/oil pump motor. The old repaired B&G is back in place and operating normally. Still haven't put the original blower/oil pump motor back in. One of these days. We seem to be stuck around the house for a while anyhow.
 
  #56  
Old 03-16-20, 05:28 PM
Grady's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Delaware, The First State
Posts: 14,247
Received 23 Votes on 21 Posts
Thanks for the follow up. It does indeed sound like the overloaded relay was the issue.
 
  #57  
Old 03-16-20, 05:30 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 2,956
Received 41 Votes on 39 Posts
DT,
Thanks for the update. Good to hear everything is working.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: