Honeywell R8285D Control Center wired correctly?

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Old 07-20-20, 07:47 AM
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Honeywell R8285D Control Center wired correctly?

I have a Burnham Series 2 gas-fired hydronic boiler with 4 zones. Each zone has its own circulator pump which are controlled by an Argo ARM-4P switching relay. The boiler came and was installed with a Honeywell R8285D Control Center. As originally wired, the isolated switch (lower left-hand corner on the ARM-4P) sent 2 wires to the relay on the R8285D Control Center - one wire to the R terminal and the other wire to the G terminal. For the past 12 years the boiler has performed flawlessly.
Also as originally installed, a Safguard Model 100 electronic low-water cut off switch was wired in series with the other safety controls (i.e., flame roll out switch, blocked vent switch). This low-water cutoff switch recently leaked and I replaced it with a Taco Model LTR electronic switch. The 2 switches are virtually identical as are the wiring harnesses and wiring schematics. After installation the boiler fired as per usual. However, when I pressed the "Test" button as per the Taco instructions, the boiler FAILED to cut off although the "status" light on the low-water cut off switch did turn "red". Following Taco's suggestion, the wiring was checked several times and found to be correct. As a result, I suspected that the safety controls were somehow being by-passed. To prove the point, I disconnected the harness from the Taco low-water cut off switch (which is wired in series with the other safety controls) and the boiler still fired and performed normally.
My question (finally): Are the wires from the isolated switch on the ARM-4P wired to the correct terminals on the relay of the honeywell R8285D Control Center or is it somehow bypassing all the safety controls?

Thank you,
Bill
 
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Old 07-20-20, 09:27 AM
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Welcome to the forums.


My question (finally): Are the wires from the isolated switch on the ARM-4P wired to the correct terminals on the relay of the honeywell R8285D Control Center or is it somehow bypassing all the safety controls?
Are you asking us to guess ?
Without knowing or seeing your wiring it's pretty hard to answer.
How-to-insert-pictures.
 
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Old 07-20-20, 11:48 AM
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Sorry, I thought my long-winded narrative would be sufficient. I'll send pictures.
 
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Old 07-20-20, 11:55 AM
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A wiring diagram would be ok too if you happen to locate one on the inside of one of the service doors.
 
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Old 07-20-20, 02:52 PM
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Hi, did you ever test the old LWCO before to see if it did work, a Dia. Would be great, the Dia on the Taco shows the wire connected to C not G.
Geo
 
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Old 07-20-20, 02:59 PM
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Believe it or not, I never opened the service door until recently since the boiler worked flawlessly. It was only when it started leaking that I discovered that the wires for LWCO were never hooked up by the original contractor. Once I removed the old LWCO, I found its probe completed disintegrated.
 
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Old 07-20-20, 03:20 PM
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Sorry, but the wires in question are the ones from the isolated switch on the Argo AMP-4P. The wires for the LWCO I believe are wired correctly. Thanks.
 
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Old 07-20-20, 08:19 PM
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There's a little confusion here. That's why I like pictures.

You are asking about the common/isolated XX terminals on the ARM4P that activate the boiler. Those two wires connect to R and G to activate that fan center. Then that relay activates the boiler. That is correct. What we don't know is how the boiler safety's are tied in. The safety loop could open one of those wires.

With a wiring diagram we could tell for sure.
If there is no wiring diagram on the unit.... post the full model number off the ID tag.
 
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Old 07-21-20, 07:20 AM
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Yes, that is correct. Based upon my reading of the boiler schematic (which I did upload along with several pictures but don't know where they went) it appears that the two wires in question are connected properly to terminals R and G. As you indicated, the question is why do the safeties appear to be bypassed. I had not thought of the safety loop opening one of those wires. Interesting.

Thank you..
 
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Old 07-21-20, 10:31 AM
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I left a link in post 2 for picture posting.
 
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Old 07-21-20, 11:06 AM
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2 most pertinent pictures



 
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Old 07-21-20, 11:10 AM
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2 more pictures



 
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Old 07-21-20, 11:15 AM
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Old 07-21-20, 11:19 AM
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Final Two - sorry for the confusion.



 
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Old 08-01-20, 07:55 AM
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Different tact

Tried a different approach: Drained the boiler and removed the Taco LWCO BUT kept the Taco wiring harness attached to both the boiler (Honeywell R 8285D Control Center) and the LWCO. The LWCO is wired in series with the other safety protocols (flame rollout switch, blocked vent switch, etc.) and, in theory, the boiler shouldn't fire. Needless to say, the boiler fired and performed flawlessly. During the brief test, the RED light on the Taco LWCO remained ON indicating a low water situation. Once reinstalled and the boiler refilled, the LWCO remained GREEN and the boiler fired flawlessly. This indicated to me that the issue is not with the LWCO. It seems that the wiring of this boiler is somehow flawed it operates irrespective of the safety protocols being eliminated.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thank you.
 

Last edited by bill11566; 08-01-20 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Spelling issue
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Old 08-01-20, 10:10 AM
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Hi, where are the 2 yellow wires from the LWCO connected, those are the safety circuit for the LWCO, pics please, which Taco LWCO do you have? The 2 yellow wires look suspicious.
Geo


 

Last edited by Geochurchi; 08-01-20 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 08-02-20, 09:24 AM
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Geochurchi, thank you for your reply. I've attached additional pictures as suggested. I'm fairly confident that the LWCO is wired correctly and is not the issue. I followed the instructions provided by Taco and they were fairly straightforward and specifically for the Honeywell R8285D Control Center.

Again, thanks.






 
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Old 08-02-20, 11:41 AM
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Hi Bill, the XX terminals appear to be correct, they are acting as a thermostat circuit to start the boiler, the thing is that the Taco is doing the same thing as the old control , which leads me to believe it was wired wrong to start with, did you use the old connector and just plugged the Taco into it, the 2 yellow wires are the safety circuit, itís hard to tell in the pics where they are connected.
Connect the yellow wires to interrupt this red or orange wire, which ever is easier.



Geo
 

Last edited by Geochurchi; 08-02-20 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 08-03-20, 06:35 AM
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Hi Geochurchi, I followed the Taco directions to the letter and used the new wiring harness supplied by Taco with the LWCO. It seems the objective of the wiring instructions is to wire the LWCO in series with the factory safety circuit which I believe is what your suggesting in your latest reply (breaking into the limit switch). As far as the yellow wires on the LWCO, one was attached to the "R" terminal on the Control Center and the other was attached to the blue wiring coming from the vent damper which was originally factory wired to the "R" terminal on the Control Center. Sorry the photos didn't show it clearly - there's just too many damn wires. I believe this wires the LWCO in series with the rest of the safety circuit. What I can't understand is why the boiler continues to fire even after I pulled the harness connecter from the LWCO and seemingly eliminated the entire safety circuit.

Thanks,
Bill
 
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Old 08-03-20, 06:54 AM
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Hi Bill, if you remove the Orange wire from the limit, the boiler should shut down, one other thing , there is no call for heat when you are trying this, correct?
it looks like purple and red are the safety circuit from the power vent, tying the yellow from the LWCO in series with one of them has to shut the boiler down.
Geo
 
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Old 08-03-20, 08:18 AM
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Thanks Geochurchi. No, I set one of the thermostats to call for heat in order to see if the boiler fired, which it did. I let the boiler run for approximately 5-10 seconds. Yes, I agree disconnecting either of the wires you suggested should shut the boiler down. I didn't specifically try to disconnect any safety circuit wires after the boiler was running. However, I left the LWCO wires attached as per instructions and removed the harness from the LWCO itself thereby effectively disconnecting the safety circuit. The boiler fired up.

Thanks,
Bill
 
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Old 08-03-20, 10:01 AM
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Hi Bill, remove the Orange wire from the Y terminal on the control and see if the boiler fires, also is there a plug on the vent ? if so remove it and see if the boiler fires, also post a clearer pic of the LWCO wiring if you can .
Geo
 
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Old 08-03-20, 11:45 AM
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Geochurchi, thanks for you prompt reply. As suggested, I removed the Orange wire at the "Y" terminal on the Control Center and the boiler FAILED to fire (although the circulator ran which is fine). I then reattached the orange wire and removed the 2 wires to the blocked vent switch on the vent and the boiler again FAILED to fire (but the circualtor ran). Obviously, the safety circuit is working. I think I can see where you're going with this - your post #18. Break into the limit switch. Is that correct? I've attached more pics and a video (sorry it take the file).

Thanks





 
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Old 08-03-20, 12:11 PM
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Bill, thatís correct , interrupt the red is fine, try one other thing, put the LWCO back the way you had it, and test the LWCO , the safety circuit is interrupting the feed to the vent motor, give it 5 minutes and see if it shuts down, that motor will take a few seconds to close ,so let the boiler run.
Geo
 
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Old 08-03-20, 12:50 PM
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Finally Dun

Geochurchi: Damn! Did as you suggested (now and back in #18) - used the LWCO Yellow wires (safety circuit) to cut into the Red wire coming from the limit switch to the blocked vent harness. Boiler fired right up and sure as s..., when I pressed the "Test" button on the LWCO (simulating low water) the boiler shut down. Don't really understand it since I thought I was essentially doing the same thing with the Taco wiring instructions.

Thank you very much for your persistence in sticking with my issue. Much appreciated.

Bill
 
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