HydroStat 3250 Plus to replace R8182D aquastat?

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  #1  
Old 09-12-20, 10:50 AM
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HydroStat 3250 Plus to replace R8182D aquastat?

I have a Burnam V-15A-T oil burner with R8182D aquastat. I rewired the aquastat for cold start, and the domestic hot water is provided elsewhere. The four zones are controlled via a Taco SR504-4.

My oil burner service guy says the points on the R8182D are shot, which is why the burner does not respond to a call for heat. It will...sometimes...but not usually. He said that the 8182 may be replaced by a HydroStat 3250 Plus.

Is he correct? And, if I was handy enough to rewire the aquastat for cold start, and install the Taco SR504 (which replaced three separate Honeywell thermostat controllers), am I handy enough to switch out the 8182 and install the 3250?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Gary
 
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  #2  
Old 09-12-20, 11:11 AM
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It's a little fancier, has more bells and whistles but basically wires the same way.
 
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Old 09-14-20, 10:13 AM
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The setup I have has a remote sensor in the well. Can I use it to wire the 3250, or do I need their remote sensor?
 
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Old 09-14-20, 10:34 PM
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As far as I know.... you must use the supplied sensor.
 
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Old 09-15-20, 12:01 PM
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Under the 8182, to the boiler are three pairs of wires...yellow pair for cad sensor, black and white, and two blacks. And then there is the exhaust fan (which stays on for a while after the oil burner shuts off), wired into the boiler and 8182 wiring. I have a photo, and know, physically, where all the wires go...but there are more wires than are called for to connect to the 3250...and particularly don't know about the black pair coming from the burner.

It's not that simple...
 
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Old 09-15-20, 03:58 PM
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This photo shows the boiler wiring. The wires on the left are going into the bottom of the 8182. I would infer that since the only source of power is from the 8182, that I should use the orange wire as hot to the 3250, and the white as neutral. Don't use the cad wires...and it really is that simple. The BX cable heading vertically is to the exhaust fan.

Is that correct?


 
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Old 09-16-20, 03:12 AM
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I said left...but I meant right.
 
  #8  
Old 09-16-20, 05:44 AM
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Hi, have you checked the installation instructions, that control has to be matched with the Taco switching relay, donít randomly hook wires up, the CAD cell must remained connected, where was the old 8182 attached? Where is the connection to the Taco control now?
not trying to confuse the issue, but where is the primary control for the burner?

Geo


 

Last edited by Geochurchi; 09-16-20 at 06:35 AM.
  #9  
Old 09-16-20, 06:56 AM
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The end switch in the Taco runs to the thermostat connection on the 8182. I rewired the 8182 for cold start and eliminated the hot water low limit aspect of the 8182. Easy to do, there are instruction in the manual.

So the oil burner is cold start now, and when a zone calls for heat the oil burner fires up, circulator pump starts.

The 8182 is in the prior photo. Its bottom is where the wires heading off to the right go. It is hinged so as to access the wiring shown, to the oil burner. There are any number of posts in forums where Honeywell aquastats are replaced by 3250's and there is no mention of the cad cell, and there is no accommodation in the 3250 to hook one up.

And the purpose of my post is to receive expertise from the members on how to hook this up without randomly hooking up wires. However, the fact remains that there is only one source of line voltage to the entire system, and it starts with the line to the 8182. And there are only two wires (except the yellow cad wires) from the 8182 to the oil burner. Included is a photo of the 8182. The white, and orange wires can be seen just below the limit block...headed to either the "transformer for cad cell circuit," or the "burner motor and ignition relay." In the 8182 photo, beneath the orange and white wires is a black wire, the other end of which can be seen at the top of the limit block, and attaches to the terminal C2...pictured just above it...the one on the right, of the two terminals. The 8182 manual is easy to find on line, or I can put it on Google Drive and include a link to it.

The thermostat, and line-in are disconnected...so are not in either photo.

I love to know which two wires will connect to the burner terminals in the 3250.


 
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Old 09-16-20, 08:25 AM
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Hi, can I assume that the thermostat wires, red and white , are from the Taco control? they would connect to T T, forget the Orange and White, they are internal to the control, the line wires will connect to the L1 L2 terminals on the new control , what are the 2 BX cables on the right side, I assume one might be the line , correct? I believe the reason you donít see any mention about CAD connections is because the control assumes there is a primary control on the boiler and would be connected to B1 and B2.1, you maybe better off replacing the old control with the kind.
I hope someone can prove me wrong.
Geo🇺🇸
 
  #11  
Old 09-16-20, 11:38 AM
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hi guys -

I donít think Iím up to speed with you guys on this Ė but I did something similar. I replaced my old 8124 Aquastat with a Honeywell L7224U and I have a Beckett AFG burner also. Also when Iíve done some maintenance in the past I took the motor out of the burner. I made a nice diagram for myself of all the wiring at the burner and the wiring to the Aquastat Ė but I cannot find those diagrams for the life of me (ticks me off to no end Ė lol). But it matched the attached diagram.

Anyway that wiring I think you are showing in the picture looks like the wiring compartment at the burner. Is that the case? If so Ė

(1) I guess this was already mentioned but the CAD wires (mine are yellow also) donít leave the burner. They just attach to the burner control. They shouldnít be connected to anything else. (see diagram). Maybe someone used yellow wires for power. I donít see why the CAD wires would be wire-nutted to anything as your picture shows.

(2) There should only be 2 wires coming from the Aístat to the burner and they supply power to the burner. The wires would connect at B1 and B2 on the Aístat and when the Aístat wants heat it just energizes B1. B1 and B2 connect to L1 and L2 at the burner control (see diagram).

(3) If you remove the compartment cover completely, and maybe pivot back the transformer/igniter (marked Ignition in the diagram), I think you would see the wiring better (I think so Ė itís been a while since I had everything apart).

(4) I think you would see that an orange wire from the burner control connects to the transformer and to the motor (and maybe to some other fan I think you mentioned). The control energizes the orange wire to turn on the Ignition/ transformer and motor (and maybe your fan).

(5) But I donít see why you have to fool with any of the other wires at the burner. You just need to connect B1 and B2 from the Aístat to L1 and L2 at the burner.

The diagram here is from a really old control for the Beckett AFG burner Ė but I think the idea is the same on newer models.




 

Last edited by zoesdad; 09-16-20 at 01:38 PM. Reason: clarified Ignition/Transformer as in diagram/ref. motor on diagram
  #12  
Old 09-16-20, 12:26 PM
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Hi, this link may be helpful, read the application data.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyho..._PROD_FILE.pdf
Geo🇺🇸
 
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Old 09-16-20, 01:44 PM
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Geo, thanks for the response. I have that Honeywell document...in fact...the original which came with the a'stat, and one from the net.

I'm good on the thermostat, and yes, the red and white wire is the end switch from the Taco. When any zone calls for heat, the signal comes to the a'stat from that wire. It's currently disconnected because I am taking the 8182 off to replace it.

And yes, the BX with the orange wire nuts is the line in. The bare wires next to them were for the ZC and ZR terminals and have not been powered for years.

Most of the Beckett literature refer to a burner control which would mount on the burner where the 8182 is currently mounted. This unit does not have any control anywhere I can see...so, there are no B1, B2.

I'll explain further in the response to zoesdad.
 
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Old 09-16-20, 02:34 PM
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zoesdad, the wiring shown is the wiring compartment of the burner. The only wires are those shown, and the 8182 sits on the burner where Beckett usually shows a burner control located. The first photo shows that burner compartment, and the bottom of the 8182 to the left...where the orange, and white, and two yellow wires come from.

The BX cable at the top of that photo comes from the exhaust fan. The fan has a BX cable to it from the switch box, from which power to everything comes.

The orange wire connects to the red wire (neutral?) from the fan and I assume goes to a switch in the a'stat...which connects it to the white wire also coming from the a'stat that is connected to the neutral wire of the black and white cable pair in the burner wiring compartment....but what do I know... In any event, I'll include a better photo of the wiring in the burner compartment. A close look at that photo may provide sufficient information to figure this out. The link geo provided is the poop-sheet for the family of 8182 a'stats.

The oil burner tech said my 8182 was shot...which could very well be code for...I don't know why your oil burner doesn't always fire when called upon, so let's change the a'stat, I'm sure that will fix it. And we'll replace the 8182 with the 3250 Plus. We do it all the time... He claimed the points were shot on the a'stat burner relay.

So, my questions are, will the 3250 work in this application, and which two wires do I connect to B1 and B2 on the 3250. After all, if I knew more than your average dumb homeowner, I would't be here asking these questions...



 
  #15  
Old 09-16-20, 04:25 PM
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Well I wrote the following and then I remembered what Geochurchi said about the CAD circuit. So what I said below would work to some extent BUT IT WOULD NOT HANDLE THE CAD CELL so I donít think the HydroStat would work. You probably need a direct replacement as Geo says Ė otherwise you have no CAD cell safety switch. It could not work. So I donít know what the tech could be thinking of. But other than that here is what I thought for what itís worth Ė

I think I see what you are saying. My bad. I went too fast. I just noticed that in the document Geochurchi referenced and I also found, it does say that the transformer shown in the 8182 picture is in fact a transformer for the CAD cell and a safety switch. So what I said about the CAD cell wires not leaving the burner was wrong. I think it does make sense then for those yellow wires coming out of the 8182 to be wire-nutted with 2 other yellow wires and go on to the CAD cell, and so it appears as such in the picture. So maybe you can forget those for now.

I would think then, that the other 2 wires (Orange and White) coming out of the back of the 8182 would be the hot and neutral (that also agrees with the diagram in the document, Orange and White to burner).

Orange = Hot and White = Neutral. That would seem to make sense. What I would do is disconnect those 2 wires (Orange and White) from the wire nuts just temporarily for testing. You will need a multi-meter. If you turn up the thermostat and check across the Orange and White wires I think you would see 120 volts. If you turn down the thermostat you should see 0 volts.

I think those are the 2 wires you would connect to B1 and B2 on the HydroStat after you confirm that the Orange and White are actually hot and neutral. You would just run a new wire from the wire nut now containing the Orange-Black-Red wires to replace the Orange wire (which would go away when you remove the 8182) back to B1 on the HydroStat.

You would just run a new wire from the wire nut now containing the Black and 2 white wires( it looks like one black and two whites) to replace the White wire (which also would go away when you remove the 8182), back to B2 on the HydroStat.

In your picture I assume you have L1 and L2 disconnected from the 8182 at this time.

Thatís the way it appears to me anyway. But I think the test for the Orange and White should be done for sure.

 
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Old 09-16-20, 04:54 PM
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That makes sense, and is consistent with the inference made earlier. A close inspection of the most recent photo I posted of the burner wiring compartment might tell you something also. I was thinking that, perhaps, the orange, and white wires become connected at the a'stat switch and are a neutral circuit. If you look closely, the wiring looks like it may do that, and the hot leg is provided by the exhaust fan "hot." Look carefully at those wires. It becomes a little confusing in that there is a cable coming from the burner which has two black wires. But there is also a cable with a pair, black, and white...and the orange, and white are in one leg...and the black (of the pair that is one black, and one white) appears to be part of the exhaust fan leg using the orange wire nut.

It's a little confusing...

See what I mean?
 
  #17  
Old 09-17-20, 09:02 AM
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Iím pretty sure the 2 wires from the motor should be black. I donít know what color the 2 wires to the igniter/transformer would be, or the 2 wires to the fan. I think I am a little lost with the fan. If the fan is getting power directly from the switchbox which also supplies the power to the 8182 Ė then I donít understand the wiring. How is the fan switched ON/OFF by the 8182? I thought the fan should only come on when the burner runs, and the burner ON/OFF is controlled by the 8182, but maybe thatís not the way the fan is supposed to work.

Is there some other control? I think on some oil burner controls the fan will run for a while after the burner stops. Thatís controlled by the burner primary control Ė but you donít even have a burner primary control. Where does L1 come from on the 8182? Are you suggesting that the power for the 8182 comes from the switchbox through the fan junction box?

The only fan I have on my burner is the blower wheel on the burner motor so maybe I donít understand your fan function at all. Iím lost Ė lol!

But there are other connections not shown. Maybe looking in the fan junction box and looking at the wires at the igniter and at the motor and trace them back to your picture would clarify things. I think some igniters have a black and white wire and I think some transformers have 2 black wires.
 
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Old 09-17-20, 12:57 PM
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Hi, what is the purpose of this exhaust fan?, I still think you would be better off using the same Honeywell control as the old one, one other thing that seems to be overlooked for intermittent operation, is a loose connection or even a bad solder joint on the back of the board, where do you plan on connecting the CAD cell on the HydroStat?
Geo
 
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Old Yesterday, 05:55 AM
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Because this appears to be cobbed together somehow I'm calling in the pay-for experts. Thanks you guys for your thoughts and suggestions.

I'll post an update when this is resolved, and the how-it-did information may be useful for you guys in the future.

Thanks again,
G
 
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