gaskets for leaking circulator flange

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  #1  
Old 09-19-20, 04:37 PM
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gaskets for leaking circulator flange

The circulator flanges on my older Amtrol DHW system are leaking a little--evident for the 4 years we've been here, but I just for the first time actually saw it leaking. Old corrosion, but now some water--although it is mostly evaporating before it drips.

The pump is an Amtrol Pro-Pump Model WR6.5, which I have been unable to find anywhere. Amtrol now uses Taco pumps, and the Amtrol-branded pump looks pretty similar to a Taco. Does anyone know if it's apt to have the same flanges as an older Taco 007 pump? If I can't find the gaskets, what type of gasket material does anyone suggest using, and what sealant, if any?

I'd really like to have the gaskets or material ready before I pull it apart. Thanks.
 
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Old 09-20-20, 11:13 AM
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kot,
The flanges are the same and the Amtrol pump is no longer available. You just use regular Taco 007 gaskets which come with the new pump or the sight below can help you out, either the 1/8" full face or the other ones.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-Iro...Flanges-290000

Hope this helps a little
 
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Old 09-20-20, 01:05 PM
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Thank you kindly spott. Helps a lot, and just what I was hoping to hear. Would you suggest gasket adhesive on such rubber gaskets?

KoT
 
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Old 09-20-20, 03:57 PM
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kot,
No adhesive is necessary. Just the gaskets are fine.
 
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Old 09-21-20, 04:30 AM
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I forget exactly how I will purge the zone after putting it back together. I did it a year ago on one of the regular heat zones, but remember that I sort of lucked into it and didn't pay enough attention..

Each zone, the DHW zone included, has each circulator isolated by two ballcock valves, although the valves are not all that close to the circulator on this zone. Each zone also has its own drain valve . When I bolt it all back together and introduce water back in, does it matter which of the isolation valves I open first? Do I do them both together?
 
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Old 09-21-20, 08:10 AM
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Recently removed a Taco 007 and found red rubber flange gaskets were crumbling and porous. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-110...sket-Pack-of-2

The Taco round black rubber, square cross section gaskets are far more reliable.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-007...Pair-4662000-p

Natural rubber which has a motley brown color. For a more presentable product manufacturers color it. Carbon black coloring makes the most durable, long life product. Other color materials result in inferior products. One of reasons white wall tires are not popular on cars.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-Iro...Flanges-290000
 
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Old 09-21-20, 08:40 AM
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I didn't bother getting the square gaskets b/c it wasn't a Taco pump and I wasn't sure it would take them. (Looked like it would have.) I got the Taco rubber gaskets and will have to hope for the best. Anyway, I also purchased and replaced the Taco Hi-Vent as it was extremely corroded.

When I re-filled the zone and checked for leaks, I found water coming out of another, even more-corroded Hi-Vent that was in the line up at the ceiling (unlike the other one). All I could do, for now, was tighten down the cap until I get another one. Always something . . .

I'm still wondering which valve in the zone to open first (if it matters) , to re-introduce the water and purge the air.

Thanks.

KoT
 
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Old 09-21-20, 09:41 AM
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kot,
The full face gaskets as I call them would have worked but it is just a matter of preference. As far as bleeding the system and which valve to shut off, pics of the system if possible would be very helpful. If you had valves on both sides of the pump and just drained what was in the pump there is no need to bleed anything. If not pics would be helpful.

On another note, if you are having trouble with your hi-vents you can install an 1/8" valve between the pipe and the vent if you have room so you can isolate the vent without draining anything.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contr...22+ball+valves
 
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Old 09-21-20, 11:57 AM
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KeepOnTruckin might consider installing $8.29 Watts-Automatic-Vent-Valves at high point of each zone and forget about manual venting. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-05...Vent-3679000-p

I have 8 zones and gave up years ago on manual venting. The first vents leaked and got bad reputation. The Watts are very reliable, can be opened and serviced. Keep a $9 spare just in case.
 

Last edited by doughess; 09-21-20 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 09-21-20, 12:11 PM
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The valves are not very close to the pump. See below.

pump, after gaskets changed

valve on feed line

hy-vent that I changed, valve on return line

new-looking hy-vent found leaking after zone re-filled. Looks new, but was there when we bought 4 years ago.
 
  #11  
Old 09-21-20, 03:17 PM
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kot,
Those 2 Taco flanges with shutoffs are close enough where you shouldn't have to bleed anything. When you open them back up your Airscoop and Hi-vent that is connected to it should burp the little air that might be there.

Just make sure you turn the valves back on and water is in the pump before you turn it on.

One more observation is that insulation on your Boilermate. It is not needed and is really serving no purpose but that is up to you. That tank has 2" of insulation on the inside which is why they make the claim that the water only cools at 1 deg. per hour which is why they are so efficient. Much more than a stand alone hot water tank. which has very little insulation.
 
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Old 09-21-20, 04:09 PM
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Thank you spott and doughess. I think I'll go with the watts air-vents going forward. There are now three of the Taco ones on the shelf on which boiler maintenance folks have been leaving replaced parts. I'll pull them apart to see if they're serviceable, but Watts indicates that theirs are.

The insulation blanket was on the boilermate when we bought and it's been nothing but in the way. Thanks for giving me an excuse to get rid of it.
 
  #13  
Old 09-22-20, 07:44 AM
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Air in hydronic systems rises to highest point in system. That is why putting vent at top of each zone is important.

Manual venting at boiler, even with circulator running is wishful thinking.

Cannot see the type vents in pictures. One looks like "seal can" Jacobus which were the worst. Their tire valve had red rubber gasket that went bad and leaked.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jacobus-...-1-8-Auto-Vent

KeepOnTruckin “insulation blanket” is another issue. Boiler rooms can be warmest place in home, even with the cold, often uninstalled concrete walls. Years back decided that was major expensive, heat loss. Insulated all hot water pipes. Covered outer surfaces of boiler with fiber panels. Insulated vent pipe before auto damper. Now on coldest winter days boiler room temp does not exceed 75F.

Cosmetically boiler may not win prizes but home oil consumption over 50 years has been reduced from 1800 gallons to 600 gallons. At today's oil prices that is $2,400 per year savings.
 

Last edited by doughess; 09-22-20 at 10:03 AM.
  #14  
Old 09-22-20, 05:11 PM
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The vents are Taco 400s. Like I said--I ordered a Watts vent to replace the latest one to fail. Re: wrapping the heat pipes--I have insulated many 100s of feet of 3/4" copper piping in our 65-foot-long ranch with 7 zones (to improve the heating in the house upstairs), but I think I'll unwrap the boilermate. The basement is half-finished,and the boiler is in a large shop area, so I don't mind a little warmth.
 
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