I have 2 White Rodgers 1311 zone valves that are functioning correctly when no call for heat but when there is a call for heat the valves keep spinning. So they are cycling the heat on and off every 30 seconds ish until it reaches temperature.

The basement (3rd valve) is working correctly. Thing is I just replaced both T-stats for these 2 zones. After I replaced the 1st I tested extensively and I’m 99% sure it worked correctly.

I then replaced the 2nd T-stat and wired it the same as the 1st. I tested it but may not have tested that it was stopping on open. This was a week or so ago that I replaced the 2nd T-stat and I just noticed the problem today.

Any help would be so greatly appreciated!!!

 

Welcome to the forums.

You more than likely have the valves wired incorrectly.
Those valves have a motor stop switch. If that isn't wired correctly.... the motor doesn't stop.

1311 zone valve manual (pdf)

 

Thank you.. you mean I don’t have the T-stats wired properly? I didn’t touch wiring on the valves.

the old thermostat I had had a terminal labeled “6”. I used “B” to replace it figuring that the valve is open when energized and closed when not.

 

You said zone valve issue. It more a thermostat issue if you tried to replace a specialty thermostat.

What model was the old thermostat ?
How many wires were on it ?

 

Red is on 5. White is on Y6 and green is 4
t-Stat is a white Rodgers IF35-910
New T-stat is just a basic 1zone programmable

 

Hi, what is the model of the new Stat, is it the same Stat you used for the basement zone?
Geo 🇺🇸

 

There are some higher end stats that will replace yours directly.
Otherwise it looks like a relay is required to supply "power open" and "power close".

I was looking at an interesting article. It said to program the stat to radiant heat and 0 cooling. That would utilize the wiring in this diagram. I'm guessing when set to 0 cooling stages the Y becomes hot when the heat call ends. This idea would need to be tested.



A replacement W/R thermostat

 

It looks like, as PJ pointed out, that hose valves need a powered signal to open and an additional powered signal to close the valve. This is in contrast to my Taco 3-wire zone valves, for example, which automatically begin to close once the call for heat ends and the terminal is no longer energized (thus they only need one powered signal).

With your old stat, on call for heat, the stat makes a circuit at R-W (red-green for your wires). This opens the valve. After heat is satisfied, the stat breaks R-W circuit makes R-Y (red-white wires) to close valve. So you need a thermostat designed to send a signal on call for heat and a separate signal on no call for heat. Your best bet is to ensure your new stats can do that and make sure they are programed to do so.

If you want to use a thermostat not design to work that way (ie one that makes a circuit for heat and breaks a circuit for no heat), there are two possible work arounds that I think could work.

1) get a zone control panel that receives the R-W from the new stat and has a four-wire hook up for power open/power close zone valves

2) Install a SPDT NO/CO relay and a transformer between thermostats and zone valves. This approach will work if the R-Y circuit (the signal that has the valve close) is always made when there is no call for heat. If that circuit is only made temporarily to close the valve at the end of a call for heat, then this won't work.

 

Thank you all for the responses. I bought 2 new LUX T-stats that I read have a terminal for power open/close valves. I was under the impression they were only power to close.

These are older valves and it was hard to find info on them.

 

Good resolution. Thanks for letting us know how you made out.