I have this Utica radiant heating system and has worked great with annual maintenance. Last two years, the local AC and heat co. sent this much inexperienced tech and he is done in 10 minutes whereas the much seasoned tech took about 40 minutes to perform the annual service in prior years - there's other mistakes he made and then wanted to Utica Boiler model MGB75HID
charge me to drive back and undo his mistake - also turned the water intake off and when I called to ask why the pressure has been stuck at zero, he said the gauge is bad.
Anyway, I think I can do the maintenance myself if I had a guide to follow or a video. Last two days, the heat is off in the morning and I need to power cycle it a few times to get it going again - possibly the flame sensor or thermopile.
If anyone could point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated.
Looking at Pages 20 and 25, I see there is a thermocouple and the 1/4" pipe in my system runs gas to the pilot. I guess I have to get in there and start pulling things apart.
You should know whether your boiler has a standing pilot which uses a thermocouple or a boiler that has electronic ignition if you're going to be servicing it.
Yours doesn't have a thermocouple..... it's electronic ignition.
The manual covers both types. You have a white ignition module on your boiler.
You should be hearing the ignition spark when the pilot lights before the burner lights.
1) Do you see the draft damper opening on a call for heat ? Is it opening all the way ?
2) Do you hear the spark ignition ?
3) If you don't hear the spark ignition...... check for 24vAC on terminals 5 and 6 on the spark module. That would be the same as checking terminals B1 and B2 in the aquastat. If there is no 24v then you need to check for 24v passing thru the damper and returning back to the aquastat.
Those draft dampers are a common problem area.
I see a piece of pipe with a cap on it on top of the boiler..... I hope that's not being used in the pressure relief valve line.
When the thermostat sends the signal, I can hear the 2 second squeal which I assume is the draft damper
Then I hear the spark ignition and after about 5 seconds the burners come on
But even today, the temps fell to 65f inside (its set to maintain 71f ) and the heat symbol was blinking in the thermostat but the unit came on after I power cycled it. Seems to me like it needs a power cycle once a day as it just came on by itself while I was typing this reply.
If the boiler is igniting and then going out, you probably need to clean or replace your spark ignition pilot assembly. Seems like it is not recognizing flame.
So the parts came in and I am ready to replace the intermittent pilot control module.
How do I Prepurge and Trial for Ignition timing dipswitches
Do I wire in exactly as the old one or should I not connect the 24V. I ask because the manufacturer sent an email with this ...
IMPORTANT
"TH-W" terminal should be connected to the "W" terminal from the thermostat
"24V GND" terminal should be connected to the unswitched leg of the 24VAC transformer
"24V" terminal should NOT be connected unless you have a functioning vent damper connected to the "P1" vent damper plug. Note that once the module works with a vent damper for 10 ignition sequences, it will no longer work without a functional vent damper after that.
Read the instructions to set Prepurge and Trial for Ignition timing dipswitches before applying power. Once the module starts the 20th “Call for Heat”, the control operating sequence is permanently locked and cannot be reset by resetting the Dip Switches.
Thanks!
Old Pilot controller Pilot and Thermocouple Replacement I ordered - looks too big Replacement I ordered - need wiring advice
What you bought was a thermocouple, what you needed was a pilot assembly. Below is a sight where you will find examples of what you should have bought. If you call them and give them the model number of your boiler unless you have the parts list with the number they may be able to help you.
I don't see this one in there. They recommended I call Utica and provided the ph nr.
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Reading around for the connections, it appears I should use the TH-W terminal for 24v and leave the 24v terminal unused.
As far as your control goes there are different brands out there and it depends what you currently have. I personally have not put one in in a while but when I did it on a regular basis I did have to make some wiring changes to the new ones depending what brand. If I were you to save some headaches I would call google Honeywells number unless it's in the instructions and ask for technical. Have your old control number and boiler numbers and they will be happy to help you.
Another way to do it is to go to the Honeywell sight and in a section they will have a cross reference section and describe what goes where.
What is your current brand and model and your new Honeywell model. They will all work but they just want the wires in a different place sometimes.
Go to the install instructions and scroll down to about page 8 or read the whole thing. It may help.
I think I'm good with the wiring, There is no vent damper connected to my existing spark control module, it's wired to the aquastat therefore I'll only connect the old 24v cable to the th-w terminal
Do I need to worry about the dip switches for the Trial for Ignition (TFI) as shown here
I have installed it as per page 8, I have the 8600M. I used the TH-W and it kicked off the furnace once and since then it gets the heat signal, the squealing noise happens (damper opening I'm guessing) and no spark noise.
I also received and installed the pilot assembly unit a few hours ago
Riello 40 f5 burner on Weil McClain boiler was working just fine for the past 2 months, but the house got cold yesterday and I realized the boiler wasn't running even with the thermostat turned up. I've tested everything I could find so far. What am I missing? After I came to a dead end I called a service company who told me to call a plumber because I must have a blocked fuel line (NOT). We happened to have plumbers here doing another job... no blocked lines.
1. There is electricity (breakers on, call for heat positive, hot wires going into control box @ relay 5.
2. The fuel line is clear, good flow through the filter and the pump bleed valve, fuel is a clear pink.
3. Solenoid tested fine.
4. Capacitor tested fine.
5. Pulled fuel pump, seems to /twist/turn ok.
6. Bypassed the electric air shutter, still nothing
7. Tried to jump relay 5 and 11(6 on some videos) to start fuel pump... nothing.
8. We did get a top off of fuel in the tank a week ago, but I don't see any signs of water from the fuel I got through the bleed valve and is sitting in a glass jar.
Other than the call for heat and after a few seconds the circulators on the overhead pipes start... there is no blower sound, no pre purge action, no fuel pump action...no attempt at ignition. FYI the electric air shutter doesn't automatically cycle at power on... but when jiggled will turn a full circle and stop but nothing happens after.
Thanks for any help!
I have the same problem Kendo had in post from 9-1-13. Valve for hot water zone opens but boiler does not fire and circulator doesn't circulate. If one of the heat zones calls for heat, the boiler fires, circulator turns on, sends water through the indirect tank and the water gets hot. I've already replace the valve power head. It was the honeywell describe in the Kendo post, 2 screws, 2 positioning pins, 2 yellow, 2 red.
Worked good for awhile. I could turn up temperature setting on the superstor and boiler fired and circulator turned on, water got hot. Work as it should. After a day it quit working again. Back to valve open but boiler not firing.
11-26-20, 12:26 AM
Annual maintenance for Utica water heater system
