Taco 007 F5/S circulator leaking at bottom flange gasket - Need Advice

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  #1  
Old 12-24-20, 07:43 AM
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Taco 007 F5/S circulator leaking at bottom flange gasket - Need Advice

Hello everyone,

I just noticed my Taco 007 F5/S circulator is leaking at the bottom flange gasket. It's kind of a weep leak where it only leaks when the boiler turns on and after about 15-20 minutes, it doesn't leak. I read somewhere that this is sometimes normal over time because of the expansion/contraction of the different materials. Rust is slowly building up, so this may have been leaking for a few months, possibly even last winter.

My question is, can I just tighten the bolts, or do I need to replace the gasket? The circulator was installed almost exactly 6 years ago (Jan 2015).

If I just re-tighten, I know I need to let the system cool down, but do I need to de-pressurize to get the PSI to 0?

Boiler system is Weil McLain CGM-4 Series 7.

Pics attached.

Thanks.



 
  #2  
Old 12-24-20, 08:19 AM
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I don't think the gasket is correct. It doesn't line up on the flange, Also, the pump is slightly cockeyed on the flange, which indicates that the flange itself is the wrong one for the pump. You should remove the pump and replace the flange and the gasket. Maybe you can limp by until spring, but it would be a good idea to get the required parts on hand now.
 
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Old 12-24-20, 08:51 AM
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It doesn't line up on the flange, Also, the pump is slightly cockeyed on the flange
I think that is just parallax in the picture or the left bolt not tight enough.

the flange itself is the wrong one for the pump
Looks like a new pump on an old flange. As long as the bolt holes line up and the pipe size of the two flanges is the same that pump on that flange should be OK.

Tightening down the bolts might stop the weep unless the flange surface has deteriorated or the gasket has hardened. Worst case would be to remove pump, smooth off the flange mating surfaces if necessary, install new gasket and reinstall pump.

Waiting until after heating season to replace is OK.
 
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Old 12-24-20, 09:53 AM
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The old circulator was a Taco 110 Cast Iron Three-Piece Circulator Pump, 1/12 HP. I replaced it with the 007 F5/S. The replacement circulator and gaskets were picked up at the local home depot. Was the correct size to the flange and I noticed when I installed it was a smidge smaller, but all bolts did line up. I cleaned/filed the flanges before install, but I may not have tightened the bolts as tight as I thought or aligned the bottom as good now that I'm looking at it again.

The top flange is good and isn't leaking.

The bottom gasket is not in new like condition, but it's still somewhat flexible, but also has some harder spots where the water kept leaking. Harder, but I can still flex it.

Additional pics below. So it looks like I need to drain, loosen the bottom, and possibly replace the gaskets (and or/ clean flange and replace gasket)? I'm okay doing this now as it's not terribly cold, but would take about an hour or so.


Top Flange.



 
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Old 12-24-20, 11:39 AM
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Sounds like a plan. Usually not something I would do on Christmas Eve although I did once have to replace a failed hot water heater on that day.

Try tightening the bolts first.
 
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Old 12-24-20, 11:40 AM
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Thats the old style gaskets. I dont use those much if at all. I use the new black o ring stype. I coat with pipe dope befor install.



The flanges have a cut out for these rings.

 
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Old 12-24-20, 04:08 PM
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Thats the old style gaskets. I dont use those much if at all. I use the new black o ring stype. I coat with pipe dope befor install.
I think I might have used those gaskets too as I believe they were in the box with the Taco. I might have put the red ones over the black, but can't remember now.

I just completed the work and I can't believe it, but all of the bolts were loose (on top flange and bottom). I mean, I know nuts/bolts can loosen from vibration if not tight to begin with, but when I tested how tight the top nuts/bolts were, I was surprised that I had a full turn on one, and about a half a turn on the other, then I snugged both top sets down evenly.

Bottom bolts were loose as well and needed about a turn each, but I first drained to get PSI to 0, then loosened enough to tap the circulator from the bottom with a rubber mallet and a fat nut setter just to move it over as much as I could without a large pressure release/water escaping, and then re-tightened. I maybe moved it a mm or two. Tightened the bottom bolts snugly and evenly and turned on the water, then bled the radiators. No air got in the system, so that was surprising, but makes sense since I drained from the boiler.

Everything took about 30-45 minutes with the radiator bleeding.

I ran the system for about 30 minutes and bled while running, and no air came through the radiators.

Thanks everyone for your input. I'll monitor and check daily for the next week to confirm no more weeping leakage.

Happy holidays to all of you and your families.
 
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Old 12-24-20, 06:37 PM
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SS83 has common problem. Red rubber 3 hole gaskets look pretty, easy to install, but do not last long. Material deteriorates, crumbles, flange and bolt rust.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-110...sket-Pack-of-2

Most black rubber gaskets last far longer. Taco black rubber, square cross section gaskets are far more reliable.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-007...Pair-4662000-p

Natural rubber which has a motley brown color. Rubber product companies color it with carbon black for more durable, long life product. All other color materials result in infernor products. One of reason white wall tires are not popular on cars.
 
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Old 12-25-20, 09:13 AM
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all of the bolts were loose
Heating/cooling cycles can cause bolts to loosen. Check them occasionally or use some Loctite on them.
 
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Old 12-29-20, 07:22 PM
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Lock washers also hold well and easier to remove then those with Loctite, especially in hard to reach place.

Once a lock nut is loosened a turn or so, can spin off with fingers.
 
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