The main pump TACO 007-F5-1IFC was burnt out this evening. It was caused by the leakage of its threaded joint. I searched online, it seems that the TACO 007-F5-1IFC is not popular. I will call some local HVAC supply stores to see if I can find one.
Q1: I have a new spare 007-F5-7IFC pump and two old working pumps, 007-F5 and 007_F5-12, from my old oil hot water heating system. Is it a good idea to use one of them if I cannot find a new 007-F5-1IFC pump? or Can you recommend me a good replacement model for the 007-F5-1IFC if the 1IFC is not available?
Q2: I have to deal with the threaded joint. I have two options: re-tight it or replace it. What is your opinion? If replace it, do you think the Sweat Shut-Off Freedom Swivel-Flange Set, like those used in the above branches, is a good choice?
I was thinking to replace the cast iron flange with a bronze flange. But I found the bronze flange was discontinued a few years ago. The stainless steel flange is recommended alternative. Does the stainless steel material is more similar to copper than cast iron?
If the existing pump has a suffix "IFC" then you have to put one back that is designated as the same. The IFC stands for " integral flow check" and unless you plan on adding a separate flow check valve you will get ghost flow in that zone when another zone turns on. As far as the leaky flange, once the pump is removed unscrew the flange (if you can) clean up the threads and reinstall the flange. Its nice to have isolation valves but as often as a pump needs to be replaced, just save a few bucks and reinstall the old one.
The Taco 007 pump came with two round black rubber gaskets. Are you referring to them? I thought you are talking about a black three-hole gasket. I visited four local supply stores and finally found the black three-hole gasket.
The space is too tight. I couldn't use both the black three-hole gasket and the round rubber gasket. I didn't put the round gasket in. I hope it is ok.
d,
The black round gaskets that come with the pump are the ones to use. There are grooves for lack of a better term cut into the flanges where the gaskets go so they are just about flush with the flanges.
If those black things sticking out of the flanges are the gaskets that came with the pump I don't believe you have them in correctly. You shouldn't be able to see anything when installed correctly.
Have no idea what 3 hole gaskets are for cieculator flanges.
Below is the sight and the flange gaskets for the Taco pump. These are more like O ring gaskets.
A major benefit of isolation valves is heating and hot water can continue with boiler on and other zones, while isolated section is worked on.
On cold days home owners like to have heat. To plumbers coming to fix a boiler problem that may not be big issue.
This DIYer puts his own interests firsts so years ago gave up the waiting and paying plumbers.
S. :Have no idea what 3 hole gaskets are for cieculator flanges
Gaskets on circulator under "leak here" label has 3 holes, two for 7/16" bolts and one 1-3/8" for passage. Taco round gasket 007-007RP has only 1 hole. Number of holes was simple way to distinguish types
I could be wrong but the top of that boiler looks like a high efficiency. It is also piped P/S so the use of an IFC is really not needed on the boiler pump. Also if it is a high efficiency boiler, is a 007 actually big enough?
I could be wrong but the top of that boiler looks like a high efficiency. It is also piped P/S so the use of an IFC is really not needed on the boiler pump. Also if it is a high efficiency boiler, is a 007 actually big enough?.
Yes, it is a high-efficiency boiler, Burnham Alpine ALP105.
The boiler pump is the same as other zone pumps right now. Whether it is big enough is also what I am doubting about. What is the downside if the boiler pump is not big enough? Do you have any suggestions for further improvement?
Good catch on that being a high-e boiler. That being an Alpine 105 it needs either a Taco 0014 or a Grundfoss 26-99. Not getting enough flow through the boiler can cause short cycling issues and possible damage to the boiler. Also your efficiency will drop due to not carrying enough heat away from the boiler to let it condense.
diy007 - The boiler pump is the same as other zone pumps right now. Whether it is big enough is also what I am doubting about. What is the downside if the boiler pump is not big enough? Do you have any suggestions for further improvement?
Many pump sizing issues can be eliminated with modern auto-sensing Grundfos Alpha 2 circulators which also use less power.
Alpha2 automatically adjusts to load changes as zone valves open and close. They can be left powered on eliminating need for zone valve end switch wiring and circulator controllers /relays, greatly simplifing wiring, diagnosics and trouble shooting.
Hi,
I have a Pennco 1605HSD steam boiler that about 14 years old. We had an addition done about 3 years ago and the plumber ran a "cheater loop" off the steam boiler to add baseboard hot water as the heating element for the new addition. The cheater loop uses a Taco 007-F5-71FC circulating pump and a Honeywell L4006A Aquastat. There is 1 zone for the steam heat and 2 zones for the hot water heat.
The issue I am having is that the steam heat will not shut off once the digital thermostat reaches the set temperature. For example, we have the temp set for 68 degrees and the boiler continues to generate steam so the temp goes well into the mid-70's. Conversely, the baseboard heat does not go off while this occurs. I've tried swapping out the thermostat, changing the circulator pump, and changing the Aquastat, but it still occurs. When this happens, I've even tried removing the thermostat for the steam zone, but the boiler continues to fire.
The only way it shuts down is when I shut off the Emergency switch. After that, it seems to reset for a few hours, but then goes back to overheating the house. Does anyone have any ideas on why this might be occurring?
I need advice of what can be done with my boiler. I'm not a handy man and I'm unfortunately on the spectrum and people tend to take advantage of that. I figured I'd try to reach out to some of you that are much smarter than I in hopes to get an idea of how to solve my problem without someone tricking me into having to get all brand new parts. Ihave this oil burner inside my house that spits out water whenever it runs. It seems like a terrible design for something that is inside the house, there is no drain for the water to go into so I am left with putting a bucket where the water comes out then about every 2 to 4 hrs walking the bucket to the bathroom to dump the water down the toilet. I even have to get up around 2 or 3 in the morning to dump out the bucket and if I happen to sleep through the night I wake up to the room and hallway flooded with water. Is there anything that I can do to stop this from happening that won't kill me, leave me badly burned, or blow my house up? I'm getting tired of having to empty this bucket every day multiple times a day. Any advice would be helpful and greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
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02-25-21, 05:49 PM
