Bleeding Old Radiators


  #1  
Old 04-20-21, 04:30 AM
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Bleeding Old Radiators

There are some old radiators in my house - completely different to the more moderns. They are small - less than 12 inches high. Please see the picture below.



I can't see a valve on them for bleeding them. The other radiators have a little valve on the back i can open with a butterfly bleed key. But I can't see that on these ones.

Any ideas?

Kevin
 

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04-21-21, 08:35 AM
doughess
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There is bleed valve on top right corner of radiator.

Would suggest putting small amount of liquid paint remover on it. Remove old paint and try to open.

If unable to open, remove valve with good hex socket wrench. On old fittings, rather than “strong arming” try gently tapping with hammer wrench handle in both directions. That should help loosen and remove CCW.

Worst case, drill out old valve, retap and install new auto vent
 

Last edited by doughess; 04-21-21 at 09:59 AM.
  #2  
Old 04-20-21, 06:26 AM
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If there are no bleed valves on the radiator then the only way you can bleed them is by using the brute force method -- running continuous (bubble free) water through the zone or loop and hopefully flush out most of the air.
 
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Old 04-20-21, 10:43 AM
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K,
Is that how the unit is mounted. What are those things between the cover and the wall. What are those 2 wires for and you have some type of round thing at the top right of the cover. Do you know what that is. There are different kinds of vents besides the key vents.

Could you post a pic from farther back to get in the whole unit. You mentioned radiators but that looks like baseboard. Depending on how your system is piped you may not have a vent on every unit.

Could you also post a pic of another unit you were able to bleed.
 
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Old 04-21-21, 08:35 AM
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There is bleed valve on top right corner of radiator.

Would suggest putting small amount of liquid paint remover on it. Remove old paint and try to open.

If unable to open, remove valve with good hex socket wrench. On old fittings, rather than “strong arming” try gently tapping with hammer wrench handle in both directions. That should help loosen and remove CCW.

Worst case, drill out old valve, retap and install new auto vent
 

Last edited by doughess; 04-21-21 at 09:59 AM.
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  #5  
Old 04-27-21, 05:36 AM
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Thank fellas

@Spott - the thing between the radiator and the wall is just a mounting bracket.

@doughness - great, thank you! that nut on the top right corner, I'm guessing I just need to use a wrench for it. It doesn't look like it will take any kind of key i'm familiar with.
 

Last edited by KirbyK; 04-27-21 at 05:36 AM. Reason: typo
  #6  
Old 04-27-21, 08:30 PM
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Kirbyk: DH original 1957 manual vents had 3/16 square head. Special wrenchs were used to open it.

To remove valve it is not just using a wrench! Strong arming may break it off or strip hex. Be careful, see prior post.

If broken off, drilling and tapping is real pain to be avoided when possible.
 
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  #7  
Old 05-05-21, 03:41 AM
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What happens with drilling and tappg?
 
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Old 05-21-21, 06:25 PM
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TheScatman:What happens with drilling and tappg?
After retapping, install Watts Auto Vent and retire from manual venting.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/contr...%20auto%20vent

DH has 12 heating elements, 18 inches above main line, fed by monoflow tee's. Each element is guaranteed air trap that manual venting at boiler room level will not remove air from.

Many years ago Installed Watts to end removing enclosure covers to manual vent. Had tried many other types of vents but had endless problems.

One Watts leaked this winter. Just turned black plastic knob on top to stop flow. Watts can easily be opened for servicing, but will just swap in $8.70 spare this summer.
 

Last edited by doughess; 05-21-21 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 05-21-21, 07:10 PM
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.....................................accidental repost .............................................
 
 

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