2 of 3 zones short cycle the gas baseboard boiler


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Old 09-26-22, 04:56 AM
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2 of 3 zones short cycle the gas baseboard boiler

Hello everyone

i Have quite an old furnace that does not have an led error report code.

itís starting to get cold and the furnace is kicking on, however it is short cycling often.

I have 3 zone valves. One for upstairs, one first floor, and one for a far room from the main part of the house. I tried turning the heat up on the main floor and the furnace turned on and then kicked off. I went downstairs and confirmed the valve was open.

I manually opened the valve for the upstairs and same thing happened, turned on and off. I then opened the third valve for the back room and it kicked on and stayed on for several minutes before I turned the valve closed.

sounds like an electrical problem, but Iím not exactly sure where to look first. Any ideas?
 
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Old 09-26-22, 05:27 AM
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Need more info to help. You mentioned baseboard. Is your heating by hot water through baseboard radiators? Is your domestic hot water heated by the furnace? What is the make/model of the furnace control?
 
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Old 09-26-22, 10:28 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Thread moved to hydronic forum and title changed to reflect boiler.
Furnace is typically for hot air.

In addition to beelzebob's requests.... pictures are also helpful..... How to insert pictures.
From your description it sounds like the circulator pump may not be running. Possibly frozen.
 
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Old 09-26-22, 01:29 PM
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Aside from the short cycling are you getting any heat from the zones. If not check the temp on the pipe before and after the pump. If the pump is frozen or not working the pipe will be hot between the boiler and the pump and cold on the system side.

Pics would possibly be helpful.
 
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Old 09-26-22, 02:09 PM
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Update

Thanks for all advice so far, itís a Utica boiler from 1987. I did some testing and it seems the valves are rough to turn for the motor and itís not staying out long enough to kick on.

I am able to get all three zones to manually turn on and hot water flows, but they are somewhat difficult to initially move. I watched one cycle and it seems the motor was powerful enough to move it so that the boiler would kick on but then when it stopped moving the valve sprung back enough to kick it off.
 
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Old 09-26-22, 03:54 PM
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When you say the water was flowing do you mean from the pump working or something else. I would try turning up 1 stat and see what happens. The ZV should open aand start the boiler and pump. Try all 3 seperately and see what happens.

If all 3 ZV's open and start boiler then check your pump. If not working and you have a meter and know how to use it you should have 110V's across C1 & C2. If you have power must pump isn't working as PJ mentioned pump is most likely the problem.

For any more info pics would be helpful.
 
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Old 10-03-22, 02:57 AM
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Update

So I messed around with the motors and valves. One of the zoneís valve just need some lubricant. It moves smooth now and the motor is capable of turning the valve and depressing the switch that kicks the furnace on. All good here.

the second valveís electrical switch had the metal arm bent a little. When the valve would open it would just barely depress the button so the furnace would kick on. I think the switches body is able to move a little in itís recess. When it moved the button would become unpressed and the furnace would shut off. I pulled the switch out and bent the metal arm that presses the button back and now it works like it should.

i havenít had a short cycle in days.

Thanks for the advice everyone
 
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Old 10-03-22, 12:58 PM
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Thank you for the update. Glad things worked out.
 
 

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