Zone Valve Replacement Help


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Old 12-02-22, 05:42 PM
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Zone Valve Replacement Help

Hi Gurus,

I am doing troubleshooting and need your expert advise.

Couple of questions:
  1. If screws circled red in picture are removed, it seems to me ball valve assembly will also come out?
  2. Also how much water is expected to come out if I have to replace ball valve assembly as well.

Zone Valave V8043e



Thanks.
 

Last edited by AbsoluteZero; 12-02-22 at 05:50 PM. Reason: add pic
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Old 12-02-22, 06:00 PM
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Yes.... if you remove those four screws the valve will come apart and you'll get the water out
for the entire system unless you have isolation valves.

What is the problem you're having ?
Gray Honeywell valve tutorial video
 
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Old 12-02-22, 07:29 PM
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The manual lever is hard going towards open. You're pushing against the spring and water flow.
If it's not hooked in open position.... when you let it go the spring should move the lever back to auto.

Post the complete model number off the valve.
 
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Old 12-02-22, 08:32 PM
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Yes..... the motor runs continuously when powered. In use.... the mechanism stalls it.

You should be able to just change the head assembly and leave the valve as it is.
V8043E replacement head
 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-02-22 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 12-02-22, 07:19 PM
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Thanks for quick response.

Last week first floor got heated to 75F even though the set temp was 65F. I moved the lever to open/close positions and it seemed to be working fine. Today there was no heat on first floor, therefore I think something is wrong with the zone valve. Manual open close lever does not make whirring sound and is difficult to push or pull.

I believe these valves are 35+ years old. I am thinking of replacing the zone valve assembly except the housing for ball valve as I have no experience of soldering and reluctant to do it myself. Iam not sure if the power head will fit in the old housing!!






 
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Old 12-02-22, 07:58 PM
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Spring does not move the latch to auto even when not hooked. I will probably try to clean the mechanism, As show in the YouTube video below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQI_..._channel=Larry

Would you know how to test motor with multimeter? Also when I connect the motor directly to transformer, should it be continuously running?


Complete number is V8043E 1012 24V 50/60CY .32 AMPS @60CY

Thanks for your guidance.
 

Last edited by AbsoluteZero; 12-02-22 at 08:08 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 12-03-22, 05:39 PM
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AbsoluteZero does not have to replace V8043E zone valve body to install new style power head. Just install a Honeywell conversion kit.#40003916-001

The Honeywell 40003918-006 has two uses: 1) As a conversion kit to use a new 40003916-001 replacement powerhead on an old style (pre 1986) V4043 or V8083 motorized valve. A motorized valve that does not require this kit can be identified by a bump on the top of the powerhead. 2) Used to replace the innards on new style V4043H valve bodies. For example where the valve body is sticking or seized.
A search showed many sources:and more information:
https://www.google.com/search?client...-8&oe=UTF-8The
 
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Old 12-03-22, 09:33 PM
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Hi,

I purchased a new Honeywell Zone Valve V8043E 1012 but did not use the new brass value body as old valve was in good shaped, just cleaned it with wire brush and installed the power head and ball assembly. Everything seems to be fine but the furnace is not firing up when the thermostat calls for heat for the 1st floor. I can hear the circulation pump though I'm not sure what needs to be done, maybe air lock? Pressure gauge indicates 15 PSI.

I connected the wires of new ZV as they were before, could there be polarity issue?

Also, can someone post step wise instructions to purge the system shown in picture below.

Much obliged & Thanks.





 

Last edited by AbsoluteZero; 12-03-22 at 09:35 PM. Reason: correction
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Old 12-04-22, 05:23 AM
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Good Morning,

Heating is working fine today . Thank you all for your time, especially PJmax.

Please do post stepwise instructions to purge my heating system. Also, what does the red on off button do? It turns of gas and electricity - just trying to have a better understanding.

Once again, Thanks and Happy Holidays.

AbsoluteZero
 
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Old 12-04-22, 12:58 PM
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Absolutezero : Please do post stepwise instructions to purge my heating system
The old way to manually vent at boiler was with lengthily, complex steps that did not confirm venting of air at high points of zones

The modern automatic way is with Watts auto vents at high points, a reliable, low cost$12 long term solution.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-05...Vent-3679000-p

Unvented rises in all systems to highest points of zones, causing endless problems and hours spent trouble shooting reason for lack of heat. Air at high elements can drastically reduce heating. Often when there is less heat, and circulating water is up to temperature unvented air is likely cause.

If no place to vent at high point, a quick fix is putting saddle valve on copper line near element. Can be used as manual vent or connecting an auto vent: : https://www.supplyhouse.com/Wal-rich...alve-Lead-Free
 

Last edited by doughess; 12-04-22 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 12-04-22, 02:09 PM
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Which red button are you referring to ?
The Off - Pilot - On knob on the gas valve ?
 
 

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