Triple Aquastat L8124A, C, Setting W/O Coil Use


  #1  
Old 12-14-22, 11:55 AM
L
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: United States
Posts: 3
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Triple Aquastat L8124A, C, Setting W/O Coil Use

First time here: Slant-Fin Intrepid Boiler-Oil, Mod. T30PT
I never hooked up the domestic coil to the system (have electric water heater), what should I set the differential setting to save oil, all the way down or all the way up.
Or can I jumper a wire between two terminals so it doesn't cycle as much.
Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 12-14-22, 01:40 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 3,427
Received 127 Likes on 119 Posts
Is it possible to post a pic of your control without the cover. If you have the control you posted and you want to stop maintaining temp when not calling for heat you can do this.

You should have 2 wires connected to the control next to the WHITE differential wheel. The BLUE WIRE on the right, closest to the dif. wheel can be removed to stop the low limt from maintaining water temp.
 
  #3  
Old 12-15-22, 05:54 PM
L
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: United States
Posts: 3
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your reply:
I wasn't able to get a good pic from the camera and I didn't know how to transfer from iphone to computer.
Will see how this works.



 
  #4  
Old 12-15-22, 06:58 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 3,427
Received 127 Likes on 119 Posts
LS,
Your boiler is cycling and most like;y short cycling because of the way the control settings are. Depending what you want to do are your options. If you want to keep a little temp in the boiler you can turn your LL down to about 120. Your boiler will maintain that temp all year round. Runiing your boiler like that you would set your differential at 10 and your HL on 160 if you're getting enough heat at that temp or raise it to 180 for additional heat output at your baseboards to heat residence quicker. LL = 120, HL = 180, DIFF. 10

If you want to run this as a cold start boiler so it only runs when your stat calls for heat and eliminate your LL altogether you will remove the BLUE WIRE from the spade above the DIIF. KNOB. Your DIFF. is no longer in play either, because your boiler and circulator will only come on when the stat calls for heat and when satisfied everything will stop.

The choice is up to you but the way it's set now it will maintain all year around.
FYI...If you ever need your low limit it must be set at least 20 deg apart from your high limit to prevent short cycling in case you ever hook up the coil.

Hope this helps a little.
 
  #5  
Old 12-16-22, 09:33 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: us
Posts: 1,548
Received 99 Likes on 93 Posts
LoschStoker and home owners can solve, avoid many heating problems such as short cycling causes by Honeywell old technology bulb sensing aquastats with 10 F on-off.

Install a modern Tekmar 256 $185 aquastats with out door reset. It has more accurate 1 degree F control temperature. Has live digital display actual water temp, and menus to separately set max and minimum. Display showed after burner off DH boiler overshoot 10F so set max at 170F.. Another cost saving.

Is easy replacement for old 10F control technology bulb sensing Honeywell aquastats..

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Tekmar-2...iler-4150000-p\
 

Last edited by doughess; 12-16-22 at 09:53 PM.
  #6  
Old 12-17-22, 09:42 AM
L
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: United States
Posts: 3
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for your replies:
We have a Trane XL14 heat pump with a Johnson Controls A419 set at 26*.
This switches to the boiler from a cold start when the temp drops below 26* (adjustable), then back to the heat pump 3* above. When the heat pump is running the boiler never runs.

I was thinking if I would have purchased the boiler with out a dom. coil, the triple aquastat wouldn't have the differential control??
That was my reasoning now for disabling the diff. control or I didn't know if it was better to set the diff. control at min. or max setting.

From what I think your saying is that my settings could be set differently and that would make a difference.

I did finally get around cleaning the boiler an changing the nozzle and change filter at the fuel tank, the stack temp went from 470* to 450* gross temp., room temp was 60*. I don't know if that is a lot.
 
  #7  
Old 12-17-22, 11:56 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 3,427
Received 127 Likes on 119 Posts
You are right. Without a coil you would have a HIGHLIMIT control or cold start so no low limit or diff. By removing that blue wire I mentioned will turn your control into just a HIGH LIMIT.

That is an analog control you have now. The new controls now are electronic and have all the settings that yours does but can be shutoff when not in use so a single control can be used for everything.

That stack temp seems a little high for that boiler but it could be something as simple as adjusting the air or the draft damper or where your taking the temp. plus if that is your gross stack temp before you subtract your 60 deg to get your net which would be around 400 which is decent.

The most important thing is to make sure you have a clean fire and proper draft, everything else is what it is.
 
The following users liked this post:
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: