When we had heat the water was circulating, but the pipes were noisy and sounded like running water.
We have a Weil-McLain boiler system
We had a local contractor replace our old boiler that failed in 2012.
The contractor utilized the most of the existing plumbing.
Unfortunately our contractor died and there are few qualified people available in our area.
We have a two story home.
We have three zones with baseboard radiators.
We are on a well.
The pressure gauge on our system is currently zero.
The incoming cold water pipe to the boiler is open in front of the pressure release valve (PRV).
The PRV is set to auto.
There pressure gauge on the side pressure tank show zero pressure.
The furnace is on. Water is flowing through the system very slowly.
We tried bleeding the radiators and no air or water came out.
We tried turning the PRV to O to see if that would let water in, but the pressure never changed.
We tried adjusting the screw on the top of the PRV. We turned it a quarter turn and the pressure did not change. We set everything back to the way the were.
If we need to flush the system, we need help identifying the correct intake and outtake and what order to shut things off and on.
How can we test if the PRV is working?
How can we test to see if the pump?
I don't think the image upload is working so here is a link to the photos on Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/197333567@N07/
The first thing you need to do is get water in the system. On your TACO green feed valve there is a lever. That is your fast fill lever. In your case I would turn the boiler off and very slowly so not to crack the boiler with cold water on hot cast iron sections, pressurize to about 20 psi and turn on boiler and see what happens. When you get your 20 return the lever to normal position.
One thing with your feed valve is the screw on top is for your set pressure which can be adjusted and the lever is for temp. fast filling when bleeding or just bypassing the set screw so you don't have to play with it.
If the system sounds like water running or doesn't heat very well it may have to be bled which we can get into if it needs it.
OK - I tried that. When I turn the lever on the PRV to O for open there was no sound or feel of water moving the pipes. I tried turning the screw at the top of the unit like a quarter turn and nothin changed. Does that mean the PRV is toast or could that be caused by some other issue?
It's a possibility that you have a blockage in the feed valve. That is a 1 way directional valve so if you shut the ball valve off before the feed valve and loosen the union slowly. Water should not be able to come back from the other side of the feed valve but if you have another shutoff you can close that also. After opening the union, open the ball valve a little to see if you get water. If you do there are no other valves before the boiler then your PRV is bad or clogged.
I have a rinnai E110C for 10 years. I've had quite a few problems with it and most recently the six button control panel is now a five button control panel. I can't program the boiler anymore because the store button is non-responsive. The listed price for a new main circuit board which contains that six button control panel and LED, which is also partially failing, is $1,400 in Canada.
Is there a boilers scrap yard or source for used parts?
If there is none I'm going to have to buy a new boiler and I'm offering parts from my E110C to anyone who might need them
I'm helping to troubleshoot a hydronic radiant heating system for two apartments. There is a single boiler with two Honeywell aquastats wired in series. One is a L4006E with manual reset. The other is similar but has no manual reset. They both are set to about the same temperature, 180 degrees.
I reset the resettable aquastat and let the system heat up for about an hour. One apartment with occupant had its thermostat turned on. The pump seemed to be running and the temperature of pipe feeding that apartment was about 110 degrees. The occupant seems to enjoy heat, at least for a while. The thermostat in the other apartment was off and its pump remained off and pipes were cool.
Reportedly, the aquastat with manual reset periodically trips, maybe in several days or so, possibly worse when the apartment thermostat reaches temperature. The occupant then no longer gets heat.
What could be the problem and how should I troubleshoot it?
Why does the temperature of the heated water pipe not rise to 180 degrees? Are the temperature settings for the aquastat incorrect? Should the one with the reset be at higher temperature, maybe 220 degrees? Could that aquastat be defective?
Thanks.