Building a 12x12 cinderblock shed

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  #1  
Old 01-06-04, 07:18 AM
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Building a 12x12 cinderblock shed

I'm planning on building a 12' x 12' (8' tall) shed out of cinderblock.

I'm going to dig the first row of cinderblock a few inches into the ground then pour a concrete (using the blocks as the form) floor.

Then stack the blocks on top of each other using either mortar or concrete mix by dipping each block in the mix and laying it.

Any problems with this battle plan?
perhaps I need to dig the first row of blocks deeper?
perhaps a row of blocks won't be a strong enough form for the concrete floor?
perhaps just dipping the block into the mix doesn't provide enough mix to make the blocks stick together?

any ideas would be helpful

thanks,

-MC
 
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  #2  
Old 01-06-04, 03:10 PM
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Here is some more conventional information on laying concrete block.

http://www.chase-pitkin.com/How-To/P...creteblock.htm

I would be inclined to take a more conventional approach to building your shed.
 
  #3  
Old 01-06-04, 06:35 PM
Tn...Andy
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If you plan on laying the first course directly on the ground, plan on redoing the building down the road when the walls crack apart .......You need a solid concrete footer that is level and the bottom is below your frost line.

"Dipping" the block in mortar or concrete mix won't work either.
You'll have no way to level the mess and no mortar on the head joints ( the verticle ones )

There IS a reason it takes years to become a competent mason.
That's not to say you can't DIY, but you need to do some homework first and not try re-inventing the wheel
 
  #4  
Old 01-07-04, 09:55 AM
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how do I fasten wood to cinder block

thanks guys for the tips and the link, very helpful.

rather than digging a 24"deep x 16"wide footer and then having to lay almost 400 blocks individually, I think I'll just make this thing out of wood.

The problem is this, if the wood touches the ground directly, the moisture will eventually rot it away but if I use a row of cinder blocks to elevate that shed (forming a small 'crawl space'), how do I secure the stick frame to the cinder blocks?

I'd like it to be pretty secure considering I'll be using this shed as my workout facility and wouldn't want the XXXX to topple over while in the midst of hitting a heavybag with my boss' picture on it

any ideas?

-MC
 

Last edited by chfite; 01-07-04 at 05:21 PM.
  #5  
Old 01-07-04, 01:56 PM
Tn...Andy
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Couple ways to do this, depending on how permanent you want the shed to be.

First, you can form a 12x12 slab by using a 2x4 or 2x6 on the outside perimeter, pour a slab in the form, then remove the form.

Your wood walls sit directly on the slab, with a treated lumber 2x4 as the bottom plate on the wood wall.

This assumes you have a fairly level place to work with.


2nd:

You can set block piers in the corner and maybe one centered along the wall that your floor joist run too........these piers can be set in a bed of gravel alone, since this building will weigh very little. This is a good way to go if your ground slopes as you can vary the depth of your starting level and the number of block needed on any one pier to come up with a level top to all the block. Once you have that, you simply build a conventional floor system on the top of the piers......I probably wouldn't even anchor it to them, but you could pour them full of concrete mix and sink an anchor bolt in it if you like........and build the building on from there.

You'll of course want to check for any local codes and setback requirements, but here, you can do about anything you want with such a small building.

3rd

This is the way we used to build them at the Voc School I taught......We used a 4x6 salt treated skid under the 12' width at about 30" in from the outside edge on both sides and framed a conventional floor of 2x6s on top that. The students built a LOT 12x16 buildings that way, then we jacked them up, set on a trailer and delivered them to whoever bought it.....we just rolled them off the back of the trailer in their yards.

Go around to places that sell utility buildings and look at the construction and you'll see what I'm talking about.

One BIG advantage of this is you can sell the thing later if get tired of it or decide to move and the new owner doesn't want it.
 
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