Stone veneer on planter wall


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Old 07-29-05, 09:41 AM
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Stone veneer on planter wall

I'm planning a small raised planter (probably 18" high max) with a flagstone veneer and bullnose cap.

I'm currently placing the footer but I'm not sure what best way to proceed from here is.

1. Can I make the wall with a standard brick in a running bond pattern or should I use construction blocks? I just want the easiest build method since it will all be covered. The bullnose cap is available in a 9" or 12" length so the wall ideally should either be about 6" thick or 9" thick (assuming 1" overhang + 2" for mortar and stone).

2. Are the metal wall ties readily available or is some other product typically used (like plumbers tape)? Some pictures I see have the wall ties in the wall mortar joints while others have them screwed to wall as needed. What's more practical?

3. Some of the books I have say to use fireclay in the 1:3 Portland - sand mix. What does this do?

4. I'm assuming it's not good for a planter like this that is next to a house be attached to house. So I'll have a false back wall about 4" away from the house stucco wall. Is this a good plan? I don't want to do anything that will cause me to fail a house inspection.

5. I have terrible clay soil so assuming I'll have about a foot of planting soil in the planter above grade, I was planning on putting some gravel at about grade. I think it might be a good idea to have some drain holes also. While building the wall, can I stick some 1/2" PVC between joints angled down to end up at outside grade?

Thanks
 

Last edited by AlexH; 07-29-05 at 10:05 AM.
  #2  
Old 07-29-05, 11:36 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Stone veneer on planter wall

Sounds doable.

1. You can use either 6" thick (6x8x16) blocks or 8" block (8x8x16). The 8" will give you better stability and are easier to build corners with since you have a free-standing planter. Brick can also be used, but they are more trouble and use mortar. Dump your excess mortar on the block cores.

2. Corrugated metal wall ties can be used to ties the facing to the block. Bed in the face shell mortar on one side and leave enough exposed so you can bend into the joints of the stone, wherever they may be. They are cheap and available through any masonry supplier.

3.You can use premixed Type N mortar, which is readily available. Don't use Type M or S, unless you have no choice. They are stronger, but are harder to work with. You really don't need more strength.

4.Good to separate it from the house since it will move differently than you house with regard to settlement, frost, temperature, moisture, etc. Also should avoid any permits unless you have a loco municipality that requires permits for planters and bird feeders.

5. In lieu of an expensive copper liner, normally an asphaltic material could be applied to the inside of the planter. A sand/cement coating could also be used. It is a good idea to put in drains to eliminate excessive moisture. Your plants do not like wet feet.

Good luck!!

Dick
 
 

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