New asphalt driveway cost
#1
09-24-07, 02:04 PM
New asphalt driveway cost
About how much should a home asphalt driveway cost to replace in NJ? The driveway is about 10' X 22'. I am hearing they will put down stone with 2" asphalt on top.
One company says the stone is GPS. His price is about $2000. He is not sure how many inches of stone until he actually pulls up the driveway, but says the cost is really about labor, not stone.
Others range from $1000 - 2000. $2000 sounds high? How do I get accurate specifications simple enough to compare and know someone is not overpricing me?
One company says the stone is GPS. His price is about $2000. He is not sure how many inches of stone until he actually pulls up the driveway, but says the cost is really about labor, not stone.
Others range from $1000 - 2000. $2000 sounds high? How do I get accurate specifications simple enough to compare and know someone is not overpricing me?
#2
09-30-07, 06:15 PM
Member
Whoa....the cost is not all labor. Not even mostly labor!
The bitumen that goes into the asphalt mix has always been very pricey, but that's even more so today with high oil prices (bitumen is a by-product of taking fuels from crude oil).
Gravel is also not cheap. There are many crooks in that business and you should know what you're buying.
You should have a minimum of six inches (12 inches is even better if you can afford it, in which case it should be compacted in six inch layers, otherwise it will not be well compacted) of good quality (DOT approved) and well compacted crushed gravel under the asphalt mix. Compaction should be to 95% of the density of the Standard Proctor Test - the test will not actually be done for a driveway, but if you mention that and the Contractor even knows about that (some residential contractors don't), then he'll think you know what you're talking about.
The asphalt mix should be either HL3 or HL4 (HL4 is coarser and stronger, if you can get it), again from a DOT approved mixing plant, laid with a spreader to a depth of 2 inches right across the driveway (not 2 inches at the edge and 1/2 inch in the middle like I've seen!) laid at 275-325 degrees F and compacted immediately (before it cools).
Watch out for contractors that offer 2 inches and give you less (that's where they can increase their profits - asphalt mix is expensive). You should personally watch them do it to make sure they don't cheat you.
If a contractor told me that the labor cost is so great on an asphalt job, I'd be suspicious that he's going to cheat me on the asphalt mix or he has no spreader and plans on doing the job by hand (much more time) rather than use a spreader (which is a must for a good even finish).
Good luck.
The bitumen that goes into the asphalt mix has always been very pricey, but that's even more so today with high oil prices (bitumen is a by-product of taking fuels from crude oil).
Gravel is also not cheap. There are many crooks in that business and you should know what you're buying.
You should have a minimum of six inches (12 inches is even better if you can afford it, in which case it should be compacted in six inch layers, otherwise it will not be well compacted) of good quality (DOT approved) and well compacted crushed gravel under the asphalt mix. Compaction should be to 95% of the density of the Standard Proctor Test - the test will not actually be done for a driveway, but if you mention that and the Contractor even knows about that (some residential contractors don't), then he'll think you know what you're talking about.
The asphalt mix should be either HL3 or HL4 (HL4 is coarser and stronger, if you can get it), again from a DOT approved mixing plant, laid with a spreader to a depth of 2 inches right across the driveway (not 2 inches at the edge and 1/2 inch in the middle like I've seen!) laid at 275-325 degrees F and compacted immediately (before it cools).
Watch out for contractors that offer 2 inches and give you less (that's where they can increase their profits - asphalt mix is expensive). You should personally watch them do it to make sure they don't cheat you.
If a contractor told me that the labor cost is so great on an asphalt job, I'd be suspicious that he's going to cheat me on the asphalt mix or he has no spreader and plans on doing the job by hand (much more time) rather than use a spreader (which is a must for a good even finish).
Good luck.
#4
09-09-08, 02:04 PM
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I hope its working out
I am just now researching expanding my own driveway. I was quoted to have the asphalt delivered at $54 per ton. I can rent the roller for $99 for 8 hours. I dont have a spreader, but I was told by the supplier to not go less than 4 inch base for colder environments. everything I have read says, the thinner, the more problems you will have. Please let me know how yours turned out.
#6
10-29-08, 10:59 AM
Member
New asphalt driveway
Concrete may not be as out of line as you think for a 220 sf driveway.
About 2 years ago, I had a 200 sf "top of the line" full 4" exposed aggregate (not topped) concrete patio put in for $2000. - It had 4500 psi concrete, 5% air entrainment and wire reinforcement. There was no big cost for removal and the preparation only required some (2-4") gravel base and a plate compactor. Cement has gone up, but not nearly as much as asphalt.
The concrete requires very little equipment, especially for something small, so the cost of getting rid of the juck asphalt is a cost you cannot avoid. Asphalt requires a more equipment.
For the next several years, asphalt will be cheaper for big jobs, but it is not the equal of a good concrete surface, that you can do something with from a visual improvement standpoint.
If you are really a DIYer, look into interlocking concrete pavers that you can install yourself at your own rate/schedule once the asphalt is gone. Your neighbors may not be happy since you went "one up" on them when it comes to appearance ans selling price.
Dick
About 2 years ago, I had a 200 sf "top of the line" full 4" exposed aggregate (not topped) concrete patio put in for $2000. - It had 4500 psi concrete, 5% air entrainment and wire reinforcement. There was no big cost for removal and the preparation only required some (2-4") gravel base and a plate compactor. Cement has gone up, but not nearly as much as asphalt.
The concrete requires very little equipment, especially for something small, so the cost of getting rid of the juck asphalt is a cost you cannot avoid. Asphalt requires a more equipment.
For the next several years, asphalt will be cheaper for big jobs, but it is not the equal of a good concrete surface, that you can do something with from a visual improvement standpoint.
If you are really a DIYer, look into interlocking concrete pavers that you can install yourself at your own rate/schedule once the asphalt is gone. Your neighbors may not be happy since you went "one up" on them when it comes to appearance ans selling price.
Dick
