Stone Veneer


  #1  
Old 02-18-08, 07:26 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Stone Veneer

I am interested in cutting my own stone veneer for a fireplace from natural rock on my property. Can I buy a special blade for my compound mitre saw that will allow me to cut thin veneer from large natural fieldstone blocks? Is there a special tool for this maybe?
 
  #2  
Old 02-18-08, 07:45 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,304
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You will need a diamond blade at the least, but realistically you will need a wet saw with a diamond blade. Unless you are doing a ledgestone look, you will require a very expensive large saw. The cutting depth for a 14" saw is a tad less than 4", for a 20" saw, 8". With a four thousand dollar saw, you will be limited to face sizes of around 7"X12".

If that is acceptable, plan on about 2 SqFt per hour of production for your first 100SqFt, then about 5 SqFt per hour.

In other words, buy it already cut and save your yard stone for an outdoor firepit or something.
 
  #3  
Old 02-18-08, 07:54 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks. Can a large saw of this type be rented reasonably? I am planning on a fireplace with an area of about 600 sq ft.. The stone veneer I have priced seems very expensive. I thought I might save a few dollars by utilizing stone from the property. I was also planning on trying to cut the stone corner pieces as well. Being a novice at this I might be tackling more than I can handle. Just not sure at this point.
 
  #4  
Old 02-19-08, 01:05 AM
R
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Smile Can I buy your molds?

Hello,

I am impressed with your achievement. I am in renovation on single mom's budget, and I was horrified at the cost of siding, let alone face stones. I am wondering if I could buy those molds off you, now that you have finished your project.

Also, since I have never done this, I would appreciate any info to the technology of making & painting the veneers.

Thanks,
Rodicaro
 
  #5  
Old 02-19-08, 07:18 AM
P
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 1,306
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Rodicaro, I think you're mistaken about this thread.
Inganeer1 is talking about cutting actual stone into thin slices. He did not mention artificial stone veneer or molds.
 
  #6  
Old 02-19-08, 03:43 PM
R
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Molds & Veneer

I am surprised myself. I answered another thread, by the same author, and it got placed here. Sorry. I'll try again.
 
  #7  
Old 02-19-08, 03:46 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,304
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You can rent a 20" saw. It would probably run you 5-600 for a week, plus another 3-400 for the blade (and you could easily burn through 2-3 blades). Depending upon the stone you are sawing and your tolerance for loud, dirty, and dangerous work, you can probably cut 600 SqFt in a week or three (I would figure 10 - 8 hour working days for myself, assuming the rock was already gathered, sorted, and stacked handy to the saw).

Also, depending upon the stone type and desired pattern, you could need anywhere from a couple of tons up to 10+ tons of raw stone to get 600 SqFt. And corners are a biotch, with about 20% breakage while cutting. There is a reason the material is expensive, you know.

Personally, for anything over 100 SqFt, I would not even consider cutting it onsite.
 
  #8  
Old 02-19-08, 04:01 PM
R
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Molds & Veneer

I am surprised myself. I answered another thread, by the same author, and it got placed here. Sorry. I'll try again.
 
  #9  
Old 02-20-08, 03:56 PM
Frank99's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rockland, New York
Posts: 329
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Why not use the stone with out cutting it. Just lay the full stones.

Get a Feather and wedge and spit your own stones.
 
  #10  
Old 02-20-08, 04:49 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,304
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
You can do that, but it takes even longer, severely limits you as to pattern and is itself limited as to the types of stone you can do it to. Other than that, it is the best solution if you have more time and energy (and the proper stone!) than money.
 
  #11  
Old 02-20-08, 06:16 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for all the great replies. After listening to your suggestions I would agree it would probably be cost prohibitive to rent the equipment. After all the goal was to save money using stone from the property.
As far as splitting the stones, that may be the best alternative. I am concerned though that the finish will be very rugged and uneven, I was looking for a flatter, neat appearance if possible. I will have to split some stone and try and test pattern on something I build up as a test piece to see the finish. By the way, tell me more about feather and wedge? I am unfamiliar with this method. Thanks again for the great feedback.
 
  #12  
Old 02-20-08, 06:25 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,304
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
What kind of stone do you have?
 
  #13  
Old 02-20-08, 06:25 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
by the way, most of the stone here in Central and Southern Missouri is sandstone, limestone or quartite (sp?). There is some granite but I would bet it would be hard to split flat easily. I would bet the sandstone to be the rock of choice for splitting?
 
  #14  
Old 02-20-08, 06:55 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,304
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Limestone is the most durable, sandstone is the most workable.
Forget the quartzite or granite, with or without a saw.

edit-limestone is more durable than sandstone, that is to say.
 
  #15  
Old 02-23-08, 04:51 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
So the feather and wedge method is the most desirable? What process would be used to split the limestone or sandstone to get a reasonably flat thin piece of veneer? I suppose making a corner piece is out of the question? Thanks again.
 
  #16  
Old 02-24-08, 09:57 PM
S
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 247
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
forget trying to d-i-y,,,

native stone's usually worthless for facework 'cause of natural faults,,, buy cast stone & lay it up for the most economical solution,,, you also get corners,,, or, that's what i'd do IF in your place,,, NO ONE handles stone anymore w/o full power equip to move, lift, place, saw, split, cut, turn, & stack,,, just too ****ed expensive & dangerous.
 

Last edited by so-elitecrete; 02-24-08 at 09:58 PM. Reason: a
  #17  
Old 02-25-08, 07:38 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Take a look at this website, http://www.blackriverstone.com/

This is a small stone quarry in my general area. Pretty remote but prices are great and the stone is stacked and delivered. They have 1/2" and 1" thick pieces of limestone and sandstone. I was thinking of building a concrete backerboard frame, putting mesh on the backerboard, and cementing the stones to the mesh to form the fireplace. I want to use a wood burning fireplace insert with a double wall exhaust tube running inside the backerboard framing. I thought using the 1/2" stones might make the fireplace lighweight enough to not have to worry about major footings for the fireplace? your thoughts???
 
  #18  
Old 02-25-08, 07:49 PM
T
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,304
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
If you use the 1-1/2", you can apply it with thinset directly to the hardi-backer. Those are good prices, BTW.
 
  #19  
Old 02-25-08, 07:53 PM
I
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 7
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks. Do you think the 1/2" and 1" is too thin by your comments? I am trying to not use footings. I was worried with the thicker stones that I might end up with too much weight without footings. Appreciate your comments as always.
 
  #20  
Old 02-26-08, 03:44 AM
T
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,304
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The standard for adheered veneers is a little over 11 pounds per SqFt.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: