I have called 2 contractors to come out and look at my patio that is holding water in one spot that is about 4-5 ft around. The first contractor wanted to sand blast and then resurface the whole slab. I think that's what it's called. Another contractor came out last night and wants to put down some bonding material and repour a 1 1/2" slab over what is already there so he can get the water to run off. He will have to build up the outside brick border buy cutting new bricks and relaying them. They are both close to the same price. I just wanting to know which way you guys thought would be better. Thanks for any help

 

Have you considered "mud-jacking" if its a possibility in your case. I have heard of this being done and working well for sidewalks, garage approach slabs, etc. that have fallen/settled over time.

 

If I were bidding it, I'd go for the 1.5 inch poured overlay as opposed to the thin veneer. I believe it would last much longer, and more effectively solve the water issue. We do them often.

Pecos

 

What is considered mudjacking?

 

mudjacking is when a company drills several holes in your concrete and pumps a lime slurry underneath it. The concrete slab "floats" back up to its original height. I just tore a patio out yesterday that was mudjacked about 3 years ago. The homeowner didn't have much good to say about the results.

Pecos

 

Thanks Pecos for the info. The company is wanting to just make some cuts to get it to drain. I really don't care for that to much.

 

Pecos do you feel the overlay would last for 10 plus years? I have had to bids on it one for a complete tear out which is $5000 and a 2" overlay that is roughly $2,000 - $2,500.

 

If done right there's no reason it shouldn't last at least 10 years. I've got some down that are older than that and still in great shape. I do it a bit different though.
Instead of putting down a bonding agent, I put down a bond-breaker. That is, I put roofer's felt paper over the existing concrete and pour on top of that. Then the new stuff doesn't bond to the old, but is a completely different slab. I do this because if you bond it together, any crack in the existing concrete will transfer up into the new slab in a matter of days. If you separate the slabs with a bond breaker, then cut your crack control joints where they need to be in the new concrete cap, the existing cracks will not telegraph into the new stuff. Like I said, I've done many of these and they are all still in great shape today. In fact, I did one for a neighbor about 12 years ago and just saw it again the other day. Looks fine.
Now I wouldn't do this on a driveway or garage floor that gets vehicle traffic, but for foot traffic and patio furniture it's plenty strong. And considering that 1.5 inches of concrete weighs about 18 lbs. per square foot, it's not like the thinner slab is going anywhere.

Pecos

 

Pecos thanks for all the info. I will ask some contractors if they do anything like that. If not do you feel that it will last with out putting down the roofers felt paper? I take it it's fine not having it bond to the original concrete? Thanks Again

 

You could do it without the roofers felt or other bond-breaker, but if there are any cracks or joints in the existing slab, they will transfer up into the new slab within days.

Pecos

 

Thanks for the info Pecos. What else would could be used as a bond breaker? Like would red guard be one? Also could you tell me exactly what a saw cut is? The original company that installed the slab wants to cut saw cut the slab right down the midddle long ways the 28' part and make two other cuts on the 14' side to allow it to drain. How will that look? Will it be ok or just a band aid fix? Thanks Aagin for all the info.

 

Anything that doesn't let the new concrete bond to the old could be used, such as plastic sheeting (visqueen), etc. Just out of curiosity, why not roofer's felt paper? It's certainly cheap enough and readily available.
Saw cuts are crack control joints that have been sawed in. The contractor could just as easily tool the joints in while the concrete cap is still wet. However it's done, the slab needs to have crack control joints in it which divide the slab into nearly square, somewhat equal sized pieces. For instance a 14 x 28 slab could have one cut down the center lentghwise, then 3 cut width-ways. This would cut the 28 x 14 slab into 8 7x7 foot sections. It would look good if done correctly.
Just making saw cuts to shed water off an improperly sloped slab is not a great option. What happens when the saw cuts fill up with debris? The water will not run off. I'd go with the overlay if it were me.

Pecos

 

Thanks for the Great info Pecos. I have no problem with the roofers felt paper. I was just wondering if the concrete guys here would look at me funny. Or is this done quit often? I know very little when it comes to this kind of work. Thank God for forums like this and people like you with a lot of knowledge. My slab right now has no control joint cuts in it right now. Do you think that should be done before the overlay? I have one crack in the slab right now running the 14' length. Thanks Aagin.

 

As long as you use a bond breaker, there's no need to cut joints in the existing slab before you pour over it. It would be a waste of time at this point anyway. Just make sure they cut joints in the overlay and use the bond breaker.

 

Pecos Thanks for all the great advice. I called the comapny that poured the slab and they are wanting to just make 3 saw cuts in the slab to allow it to drain.Do you know of any good comapnies in the Little Rock Arkansas area? I know that you live far away. I thought it might be worth a shot to see if you did. I have called 3 companies and they all want to cut it out and repour it.

 

Sorry, but I don't know anyone in that area. If 3 other companies think it should be torn out and re-done, it makes me suspicious of the company that just wants to make saw cuts to drain the water. Sounds like they are trying to get off the hook cheap. The saw cuts to drain water are a bad idea. The slope should be right or the company that poured it should make it right with some process other than sawcutting.

 

Check into a product called Permacrete. The have some very high PSI base coat materials that could level or slope your deck. Their finish coat products are suitable to drive on so foot trffic is a no-brainer. Check them out on the web at www.permacrete.com

See if they have a dealer in your area. They've been around quite a few years.

Good luck,
David