Hi.As a novice to building can someone explain how to lay a string line prior to laying the first course of cement blocks that will find both right angles at each end (corners of wall).The small wall will be; 6 ft ends with 22 feet main wall.Thanks

I'm stripping the concrete stain from my interior floor because of water/effervescence stains. The floor was originally stained with a soy-based stain and sealed with a soy-based sealer. The slab had been poured last november but was covered with building paper and plywood during construction. When we pulled off the building paper there was still water trapped beneath however the concrete contractor went ahead and etched then stained the concrete. We waited a week for the stain to dry and even then it was slightly still sticky to touch. The contractor went ahead and sealed the stain only to find 'ghosting', whitish coloring appear beneath the sealer. So he stripped off the sealer and stain (although he used an etching product rather than a stripper), waited a day for the floor to dry then re-applied a very light coat of stain then a couple of coats of sealer. Weeks later, effervescence began to show up again, particularly in places where stuff was left on the floor, e.g., beneath boxes, paint tarps, etc. It seems incredible that the slab, now 10 months old, could still be releasing water vapor! Anyway, I decided to strip (rather than grind) off the sealer and stain again, this time with a stripping product, and start over. For the water vapor issue another concrete contractor suggested waterproofing the floor with a Sinak sealer which can be applied prior to staining. With regards to staining, I'm wary of using the same soy-based product again. I'd appreciate any suggestions regarding acid or other types of stains. Has anyone had any experience with Bromanite? Thanks, Doug