Installing Veneer Stone Over a Brick Chimney
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I would like to install veneer stone over my brick chimney on the exterior of my house. I have to replace the chimney cap due to water getting behind the brick and causing it to "pop" off. I was planning on removing all of the loose brick prior to installing the veneer stone. The "popping of the brick is just at the top 5 feet or so. The rest of the brick looks stable, but I don't feel like re-bricking the damaged brick.
Do I need to use a wire meshing over the brick, or can I just apply a scratch coat over the brick and the apply to veneer stone on that?
Thanks for any input!!
Regards,
RFWWorker
Do I need to use a wire meshing over the brick, or can I just apply a scratch coat over the brick and the apply to veneer stone on that?
Thanks for any input!!
Regards,
RFWWorker
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wire mesh is primarily used to adhere scratch coat to sheeting. it's not necessary for veneering concrete or masonry.
however, you will need a good bond between the brick and the new scratch coat. clean the chimney with a light solution of muriatic acid and let it dry. add an acrylic bonding agent to the scratch coat, and use mud that is rich in portland cement; you could add thin set mortar to type 's' or type 'n' masonry mortar.
if you have entire bricks missing at the top of the chimney, you can make scratchcoating easier by replacing them with concrete "bricks" from the local hardware store.
lastly, consider using a stone that has mortar joints in between stones. dry stacked stone allows water to penetrate the veneer, and after a couple of hard winters you'll be doing it all over again.
however, you will need a good bond between the brick and the new scratch coat. clean the chimney with a light solution of muriatic acid and let it dry. add an acrylic bonding agent to the scratch coat, and use mud that is rich in portland cement; you could add thin set mortar to type 's' or type 'n' masonry mortar.
if you have entire bricks missing at the top of the chimney, you can make scratchcoating easier by replacing them with concrete "bricks" from the local hardware store.
lastly, consider using a stone that has mortar joints in between stones. dry stacked stone allows water to penetrate the veneer, and after a couple of hard winters you'll be doing it all over again.
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Thanks for your response. It is very much appreciated. The bricks at the top aren't completely gone, in fact just the face of the brick popped off and 2/3 of the bricks are still in place. I was planning on just filling the voids with the mortar and bonding agent that you suggested.
I will definitely use the veneer stone with a mortar joint. Thanks for the tip!!
Regards,
RFWWorker
I will definitely use the veneer stone with a mortar joint. Thanks for the tip!!
Regards,
RFWWorker