Removing outside concrete slab
#1
04-12-09, 08:08 PM
Removing outside concrete slab
I am in the process of purchasing a house and have been trying to find the best way to go about removing a concrete slab that was put down on the side of the house. Its prob 20'x7' and I either need to take the whole thing up or cut away about 2' from the side of the house.
The issue with this slab is whoever put the slab down made it to high and basically it comes right up to the stucco on the house and there is no drainage with it this way. I was told by my home inspector that is should be at least 3" below the stucco and wood framing on the outside and have a slight slope so it will drain properly. He said I should get it taken care of as soon as possible to prevent future issues.
I am not sure if I should just take up the whole slab or just get someone with a cement saw and have them make a straight cut along the house and just remove the cement closest to the house and make a proper drainage set-up. So what is the easiest way to go about this? Rent a jack hammer and have at it or get someone to cut down the cement and only remove some of it? How hard would it be to do it myself and I believe you can rent cement saws as well.
Thanks
The issue with this slab is whoever put the slab down made it to high and basically it comes right up to the stucco on the house and there is no drainage with it this way. I was told by my home inspector that is should be at least 3" below the stucco and wood framing on the outside and have a slight slope so it will drain properly. He said I should get it taken care of as soon as possible to prevent future issues.
I am not sure if I should just take up the whole slab or just get someone with a cement saw and have them make a straight cut along the house and just remove the cement closest to the house and make a proper drainage set-up. So what is the easiest way to go about this? Rent a jack hammer and have at it or get someone to cut down the cement and only remove some of it? How hard would it be to do it myself and I believe you can rent cement saws as well.
Thanks
#2
04-13-09, 04:07 AM
It would be cheaper and faster to remove the whole thing. It sounds like the slab doesn't have the proper slope anyway, and would only be 5 feet wide after removing 2 feet. Basically useless as anything but a sidewalk.
Renting a concrete saw is relatively expensive, due to the fact that you'd either need to buy several fiber/carborundum blades or a diamond tipped metal blade. The diamond one would do the job a lot faster.
If you hired this out, someone experienced would have the salb removed with a bobcat, jackhammer, or sledgehammer in about an hour. If they have to saw it first, they'd have a lot more time and money in it.
Renting a concrete saw is relatively expensive, due to the fact that you'd either need to buy several fiber/carborundum blades or a diamond tipped metal blade. The diamond one would do the job a lot faster.
If you hired this out, someone experienced would have the salb removed with a bobcat, jackhammer, or sledgehammer in about an hour. If they have to saw it first, they'd have a lot more time and money in it.
#3
04-14-09, 03:14 PM
There really isn't an easy way to get a bobcat on the side of house due to the block fencing but I a jack hammer will prob be the easiest route to go. Makes more sense thinking about it, just need to decide what I am going to lay down afterwards so it looks decent.
#4
04-14-09, 04:45 PM
an hour demo and removal is pretty optimistic, even under the best circumstances.
then there's the issue of removing the broken concrete. you're probably looking at a couple of bills to get a roll-away concrete recycler; or less money for a dump truck - with a lot of heaving big chunks into it; or even less money for a conventional truck and making multiple trips and picking up each piece twice to get it to a dump. or you could use it to make a retaining wall.
or you could lay down paver base, use the broken concrete like flagstone, and sweep colored gravel between the pieces. that way it's permeable, and it allows you to put in drainage next to the house.
or you could get pavers of any size or shape. or flagstone. or colored gravel.
remember, though, if you can't get a bobcat back there, you're going to have to carry or wheelbarrow everything out and in. and you're talking about big tonnage and hard labor.
how thick is the slab? is it in good condition?
is it useful where it is? i.e. does it serve as a patio space or a parking strip or what? do you like having it there or just want it gone?
i ask because you can install (or can have intalled) a channel drain along the house. this would divert the water from your perimeter drains and keep it away from the basement/foundation.
then there's the issue of removing the broken concrete. you're probably looking at a couple of bills to get a roll-away concrete recycler; or less money for a dump truck - with a lot of heaving big chunks into it; or even less money for a conventional truck and making multiple trips and picking up each piece twice to get it to a dump. or you could use it to make a retaining wall.
or you could lay down paver base, use the broken concrete like flagstone, and sweep colored gravel between the pieces. that way it's permeable, and it allows you to put in drainage next to the house.
or you could get pavers of any size or shape. or flagstone. or colored gravel.
remember, though, if you can't get a bobcat back there, you're going to have to carry or wheelbarrow everything out and in. and you're talking about big tonnage and hard labor.
how thick is the slab? is it in good condition?
is it useful where it is? i.e. does it serve as a patio space or a parking strip or what? do you like having it there or just want it gone?
i ask because you can install (or can have intalled) a channel drain along the house. this would divert the water from your perimeter drains and keep it away from the basement/foundation.
#5
04-14-09, 08:16 PM
The slab has no use really. It is on the east side of the house and serves no purpose. I truthfully have no idea why it is there. There is about 7ft from the side of the house to the block fencing that seperates the yard from the neighbors. My only intentions of doing something about it is for drainage purposes because they filled it up to the stucco and there is no proper drainage. I am in AZ and even though it doesn't rain much, when it does it is severe and the water needs to go somewhere besides fill up on the side of the house with risk of it coming in through the foundation.
There is also no basement as well. I don't know how thick the slab is but it is fairly new, maybe 3-4yrs old, just serves no purpose except for causing issues down the road. There is nothing on that side of the house that is could serve a real purpose for.
There is also no basement as well. I don't know how thick the slab is but it is fairly new, maybe 3-4yrs old, just serves no purpose except for causing issues down the road. There is nothing on that side of the house that is could serve a real purpose for.
#6
04-25-09, 05:26 PM
I was able to get a pic of what is going on. You can see how the cement was poured up to the side of the house along the stucco where it should be roughly 3-4in below the stucco line. Using the pic what is my best option to get this to drain properly?
#7
04-25-09, 06:14 PM
I'd call a few local contractors and ask opinions. The UBC (code 2506.5) says 4" min.to earth and 2" min.to pavement. If the slab is pitched enough the correct way, your's looks close to 2", so it may be legal.
Pour some water on the wall, and watch where it goes. I see standing water in the far corner by the house, but not all along it. They would be there firsthand, possibly using some of the suggestions given here. Be safe, G
Pour some water on the wall, and watch where it goes. I see standing water in the far corner by the house, but not all along it. They would be there firsthand, possibly using some of the suggestions given here. Be safe, G
#8
04-26-09, 05:16 PM
I will see about the drainage, the inspector specifically brought up this side of the house because of the way it was staining the stucco and in turn seems to be not draining properly. I believe it did have a slope to it but it was going towards the back of the house, also if you look at the wall straight back in the pic there is no drainage there, Maybe I can just get away with opening up a drainage hole at that end and hope it travels that way when I see how the slab drains. Thanks for the info so far. If that slab does need to come up or just have some sort of drainage built in what would be the best way?
#9
04-28-09, 10:02 AM
i think the cheapest way would be to have a channel cut along the house in the slab and have a channel drain installed. this is basically a gutter with a grate over it, about 4" wide and 4" deep. it should run to a catch basin or otherwise drain away from the house.
what's on the other side of that block wall? if the grade on the other side is at the same grade as or below the patio, you want to drill weep holes horizontally through the bottom of the block wall so that water runs out. but make sure it can't run in before you have this done.
also, that tree is not going to help matters. the roots are making their way toward your foundation, possibly creating further water problems. if you remove the tree, you could fill the circle with pavers or stone or more concrete. do something artistic.
it looks to me like you have a nice, private little garden there, though. maybe you could open a door to it. make it an outdoor kitchen or barbecue area. i imagine you have good afternoon shade if it's on the east side, but you could put a pergola or awning over it. i'd be all over that project.
the slab looks like it's in good condition, but the dirt on the stucco appears to be from water splattering on the patio. why? is there a gutter above? does it work properly?
what's on the other side of that block wall? if the grade on the other side is at the same grade as or below the patio, you want to drill weep holes horizontally through the bottom of the block wall so that water runs out. but make sure it can't run in before you have this done.
also, that tree is not going to help matters. the roots are making their way toward your foundation, possibly creating further water problems. if you remove the tree, you could fill the circle with pavers or stone or more concrete. do something artistic.
it looks to me like you have a nice, private little garden there, though. maybe you could open a door to it. make it an outdoor kitchen or barbecue area. i imagine you have good afternoon shade if it's on the east side, but you could put a pergola or awning over it. i'd be all over that project.
the slab looks like it's in good condition, but the dirt on the stucco appears to be from water splattering on the patio. why? is there a gutter above? does it work properly?
#10
04-29-09, 05:45 PM
I wouldn't put the drains in as suggested. Cleaning them out is a pain. They sell a scope for that. Also where is it going to drain too??????
Does it freeze there?
They cost on the drains Very expansive!! Not to mention the fact the should be poured in the concrete pour.
Shijiazhuang Yinxing Sand Production Co.,Ltd
Masons Supply: Catalogs: Concrete Forming & Accessories: Channel Drain
I steer clear of that on my sites and tweak things. Runs the cost up too much. There it would be over $400.00 ouch
I would remove all the Crete and use dry laid brick paver's. It would solve all water problems and look real nice. Also its a DIY project if you want. A beautiful court yard.
Breaking up th Crete with a sledge is real easy once you get started. I have 90lb jack hammers and will still reach for the sledge if theres no rebar in the pour or heavy wire. If you do decide to jack it out do your self a favor go to the auto and buy a cheap jack.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
I still use this in places where noise is an issue on site. Dig under slab, Set jack raise Crete. Throw some pieces under raised slab. Go to where it sounds still hollow and sledge it to snap it. Now its all sledge able from there to first snap. Most times if its 4" thick a digging iron and a fulcrum to raise slab a pinch then wack away.
Does it freeze there?
They cost on the drains Very expansive!! Not to mention the fact the should be poured in the concrete pour.
Shijiazhuang Yinxing Sand Production Co.,Ltd
Masons Supply: Catalogs: Concrete Forming & Accessories: Channel Drain
I steer clear of that on my sites and tweak things. Runs the cost up too much. There it would be over $400.00 ouch
I would remove all the Crete and use dry laid brick paver's. It would solve all water problems and look real nice. Also its a DIY project if you want. A beautiful court yard.
Breaking up th Crete with a sledge is real easy once you get started. I have 90lb jack hammers and will still reach for the sledge if theres no rebar in the pour or heavy wire. If you do decide to jack it out do your self a favor go to the auto and buy a cheap jack.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
I still use this in places where noise is an issue on site. Dig under slab, Set jack raise Crete. Throw some pieces under raised slab. Go to where it sounds still hollow and sledge it to snap it. Now its all sledge able from there to first snap. Most times if its 4" thick a digging iron and a fulcrum to raise slab a pinch then wack away.
