cast stone (man made) Veneer install


  #1  
Old 07-27-09, 12:49 PM
J
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cast stone (man made) Veneer install

Let me make sure I have this correct. I am installing over hardiboard, outdoors (outside bar).

1)scratch coat of type S morter, 1/2" thick (i assume I can go into home-lowes and ask for type S morter, and they can set me up?)
2)Let the above dry.

3)then butter back of each stone and press into position.

4)after it's all done, go back with morter and grout.

My question is, couldn't I combine 3 and 4, and grout as I go?

It is my understanding since "fake" stone is so light, I do not need metal lathe over the hardi-board?
 
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Old 07-28-09, 05:33 PM
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Cast stone install

1. Yes Lowe's has type "S". They also have "Quickcrete" mortar mix in type "S" that already has the sand in it. Might be a little pricey for a large project, but it makes it easier if you are working by your self. Typically our installations are larger and we use Portland cement rather than mortar for the scratch coat. Mortar is used for jointing. The scratch coat should have some "tooth" to it. A piece of lath held on edge and used to thoroughly score the scratch coat will suffice.
2. yes
3. yes
4. mortar only on the joints.
Cultured stone is cement with a surface pigment. So you place the stone from the top down to avoid the usually stronger (Portland cement) scratch coat from falling onto and bonding to the face of the stone pieces. You need to be neat, there is no way to wash down the stone without deteriorating the face of the stone.
I have never used "hardiboard" as a surface for the scratch coat. I have used a tile backer board such as "Wonderboard". I would contact the stone manufacturer, they usually have a website with installation instructions in a PDF file.
Good luck with your project!
 
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Old 07-28-09, 05:42 PM
J
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Thanks for the info.. one more question(well.. maybe more than one

I built the frame from PT wood. I did however make the mistake of the lower portion of the frame being directly on concrete.

Will the morter on the base course of veneer provide a water proof seal? or do I need to figure out a way to lift the structure and place galanized stand offs the way you would do a deck post on concrete? I realize PT in dry-ish (Texas) enviroment might last 5-6 years on the concrete, but considering the cost and work I amputting into this.. I would rather do it right, the first time.. and if RIGHT means i need to get that structure off the ground, so be it...
 
 

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