Drylock Hydrolic Cement and Massonary Repair verse other providers?
#1
10-06-09, 01:15 PM
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 17
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Drylock Hydrolic Cement and Massonary Repair verse other providers?
There are a few providers of products to repair Masonry damage and concrete damage in basements. Some of these products are easier to use and are cheaper in larger quantity.
Specifically I am looking at multiple tubes of UGL - DRYLOK® Masonry - Patching to fix the minor cracks in the masonry, and to provide additional support for mason that has become soft and thus not completely brushed out (these spots only get brushed out abit more then usual). Basically to add a bit more protection in these areas.
The Hydrolic Cement that Drylock provides will set in about 5 minutes (according to UGL technical support). This is a very short period of time, and the amount of damage that is done (2 spots of over 6 feet) would take a significant amount of applications and mixing to work.
I want this fix to be permanent, so I would rather spend more money and/or more time for the best solution.
Lastly there is Muriatic acid verse Drylocks etching material. The Drylock ething material will cover around 300 square feet per bottle, I am not sure about how much area the Muriatic acid will cover. The application of this will be above my head, so application will require a brush with a handle on it. Cleanup is a issue, though I can get a hose to wash it off.
I also have latex paint on the walls, I have cleaned this up the best I can. I have tried using stripper (I used it inappropriately) and had a extreme mess on my hand. The fumes were horrible, and the cost to remove all of the paint this way would be extreme.
I have a 2200psi pressure washer, however the ammount of moisture using this in a closed basement would soak everything. If the acids would also remove some of the paint safely, I would be VERY happy!
I have a floating basement with a sub pump. Water runoff from washing these chemicals away will end up in the sills between the floating slab and the wall. I am assuming these chemicals will eventually move bellow the floating slab. I expect that these chemicals will end up in the sub pump. This will no-doubt cause damage to the sub pump no doubtly leading to a short life cycle of the pump.
Specifically I am looking at multiple tubes of UGL - DRYLOK® Masonry - Patching to fix the minor cracks in the masonry, and to provide additional support for mason that has become soft and thus not completely brushed out (these spots only get brushed out abit more then usual). Basically to add a bit more protection in these areas.
The Hydrolic Cement that Drylock provides will set in about 5 minutes (according to UGL technical support). This is a very short period of time, and the amount of damage that is done (2 spots of over 6 feet) would take a significant amount of applications and mixing to work.
I want this fix to be permanent, so I would rather spend more money and/or more time for the best solution.
Lastly there is Muriatic acid verse Drylocks etching material. The Drylock ething material will cover around 300 square feet per bottle, I am not sure about how much area the Muriatic acid will cover. The application of this will be above my head, so application will require a brush with a handle on it. Cleanup is a issue, though I can get a hose to wash it off.
I also have latex paint on the walls, I have cleaned this up the best I can. I have tried using stripper (I used it inappropriately) and had a extreme mess on my hand. The fumes were horrible, and the cost to remove all of the paint this way would be extreme.
I have a 2200psi pressure washer, however the ammount of moisture using this in a closed basement would soak everything. If the acids would also remove some of the paint safely, I would be VERY happy!
I have a floating basement with a sub pump. Water runoff from washing these chemicals away will end up in the sills between the floating slab and the wall. I am assuming these chemicals will eventually move bellow the floating slab. I expect that these chemicals will end up in the sub pump. This will no-doubt cause damage to the sub pump no doubtly leading to a short life cycle of the pump.
#2
10-06-09, 02:17 PM
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 17
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Bear
Not all Bear Concrete Paint requires etching. From what I hear, Muratic Acid can damage the concrete and moter. It is also VERY nasty stuff.
I have not seen any mention that either of these products will remove paint. BEAR also does not require paint to be removed like Drylock. My Uncle used BEAR (over paint) and was very happy. I have just about killed myself on the amount of work done with this project. I think I am going to stay with Drylock to fix the damage, continue to finish washing the surface with mildew remove + soap and then wash it clean, followed by BEAR Concrete sealer.
I will probably end up using Drylock Etching since it is allot safer then the other alternatives. I am going to look at BEARS concrete preparation materials, but their doesn't seem to be any lime on the concrete that has not been painted.
I have not seen any mention that either of these products will remove paint. BEAR also does not require paint to be removed like Drylock. My Uncle used BEAR (over paint) and was very happy. I have just about killed myself on the amount of work done with this project. I think I am going to stay with Drylock to fix the damage, continue to finish washing the surface with mildew remove + soap and then wash it clean, followed by BEAR Concrete sealer.
I will probably end up using Drylock Etching since it is allot safer then the other alternatives. I am going to look at BEARS concrete preparation materials, but their doesn't seem to be any lime on the concrete that has not been painted.
