Concrete Expansion Joint Replacement


  #1  
Old 01-20-10, 01:13 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Question Concrete Expansion Joint Replacement

First of all, I hope I put this in the right area.

I have 2 expansion joints that I need to replace. Original material is disintigrating and allowing water under the drive which causes it to raise in the winter.

I cannot see buying cases of silicone caulking to fill these. Just not cost effective.

I have seen 2 products that I would like to get some input on.

One is "Arrow Joint" the other is "Slab Gasket"

They both work very similar. You force them down into the expansion joint and they fill the void.

They both are very similar in price.

What I would like to know if anyone as any experience with either/both of these products? Which one do you prefer?

Is there another method that I should be looking at to fill this joint?

I live in Ohio, so we get heat in he summer and snow and cold in the winter. Needs to be able to handle the expansion and contraction of the concrete, abuse of a snow shovel and snow blower.

Thanks

Bob
 
  #2  
Old 01-21-10, 05:07 PM
P
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,265
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Why would it take cases of silicone? How big are they?
 
  #3  
Old 01-21-10, 07:18 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
The Expansion Joint goes completely across the driveway and is about 7/8" to 1" in size. I can fill in the depthwith sand. But it will take "Cases" to fill it.
I would have to fill the joint to about 1" deep completely across the drive (approx 20')

That is why it would take cases.

Bob
 
  #4  
Old 01-21-10, 08:26 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,201
Received 1,712 Upvotes on 1,536 Posts
Most concrete mixing plants sell supplies, so I'd suggest you go there and get some backer rod for your gaps. It needs to fit tight so take accurate measurements of your gaps and get more than one size if needed. You should leave at least 3/8-1/2" of depth for the sealant. And you might get the big quart tubes of expansion joint sealant, they go farther and are a better value.

If you want to do a really neat job, carefully stay within the lines and do not overfill the joint, but fill the edges completely. A wide gap like that I will usually run 2 fat beads down each side, trying to make a nice straight line and seal along each side. If you can't caulk straight, mask off each side with masking tape to confine the mess. Take some paint thinner and your finger to wet the surface and smooth it until it's flat and flush. That way you won't have any edge sticking up to catch on a snow shovel. Tooling it also forces it down tight against the backer rod and against the sides of the joint, eliminating voids and ensuring a good bond. After you have it all smoothed flat I think it looks nice if you generously sprinkle clean silica sand over the caulk. Gives it a nice texture and color.
 
  #5  
Old 01-22-10, 07:30 AM
P
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,265
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Actuall expansion joints are cheap & easy to cut if you can fit them in the space.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: