drywall over cement

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  #1  
Old 03-01-00, 01:20 PM
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I need to put up 2 sheets of drywall onto a cement block wall (actually the back of an unused fireplace that is one wall of my foyer) Do I use masonry screws? Do they make drywall-masonry screws or do I need to put up lathe -type strips of wood to nail into? Any suggestion would be appreciated. TIA
 
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Old 03-01-00, 05:57 PM
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Fur the walls with 1x3s or 2x4s arranged like a ladder (vertical and horizontal), then you can glue and screw or use screws alone.
 
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Old 03-02-00, 02:59 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2000:
Fur the walls with 1x3s or 2x4s arranged like a ladder (vertical and horizontal), then you can glue and screw or use screws alone. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What do I attach the furring strips with?--4" masonry screws?
 
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Old 03-02-00, 06:13 PM
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Sorry, sometimes I get ahead of myself. (Your original post had the ring "I'm half way there").

If you feel that moisture will be a problem hang 4 mil polyethene sheeting prior to the furring (tape it in place until the furring is up). In the same respect use Pressure Treated or Redwood where moisture is a problem. If mositure isn't a problem the furring can be attached directly to the block with 2 1/2" 9 or 10 gauge concrete nails (16" O.C. through mortar joints) or 2 3/4" masonry screws (24" O.C. mortar joints or the block itself) for 2x4s and 2" nails or screws for 1x3s. Also, an 1/8" zig-zag bead of construction adhesive applied to the back of the furring will add rigidtiy. When measuring and cutting horizontnals cut them 1/2" short, and leave a 1/4" air gap between each one and the uprights.

Typical: Uprights = 48 O.C. Horizontals = 16" O.C. This is a fairly strong furring system. If less rigidity is needed upper and lower horizontals plus uprights 16" O.C. can be used. In either case the walls are assumed plumb or that the furring will be shimmed plumb. If the walls are not close to plumb or flat it's easier to build a stud wall in front of the block.
 
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