Cement slab


Old 03-04-00, 10:49 AM
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The cement slab entrance (edge/lip next to the asphalt) to my garage is breaking apart. This is due to the car tires hitting it, as the asphalt driveway has sunken over the years. In addition water from the roof (as there is no gutter in this location - design) drops in this location. What material can I use to fix this problem?
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Old 03-05-00, 08:18 PM
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If the areas are smaller, either latex concrete patch or standard concrete patching compound may be used. Both are available at most hardware stores and home centers. If off color will be a problem don't use latex as it tends to turn pinkish.

There are two way to fix it: "wet method" and "dry sacking". The differences include the amount of water used to mix the patching compound and the finishing technique. Dry sacking is suitable for small holes or breaks and blemishes (any direction, any plane). The wet method is used for larger areas, deeper cracks, a larger scarred areas.

In any event trowels sized and suited to the work are necessary. A margin trowel (looks something like a small brick trowel only with a round or square cut nose) is used for smaller patch work. A 10" to 12" steel trowel (sometimes called a plasters trowel) is suitable for most of the larger home repairs. Typically an "edger" is used to round over the edge of concrete, however, you may not have enough room to use an edger on the work, so the edge must be hand shaped (rounded over).

Wet method:
Find a suitable smooth board (for a edge form) and place it against the edge and hold it in place with a heavy object, heavy tape, ect.. Using a spray bottle mist the work and the board to dampen both. Mix the patching compound with enough water (adding slowly) to form a peanut butter like mass. Apply and pack it into the corners and crevices without moving the wooden form. With another board that will span the work or the side of your trowel level the mass to the existing concrete. Wait. Time is non-specific, it could be 30 minutes or longer. When the surface is harder and your finger leaves a slight impression, start finishing the work. Smooth the flat work first. If the patching compound flows over the patch area use the side of your trowel to carefully scrape some of the excess from the edge of the patch, then re-smooth. When some set time has passed, remove the board and work the vertical surface and round over the edge. After all areas are smooth and compact wet the surface with the spray bottle, cover the area with plastic and allow it to cure. Keeping it moist and covered for a minimum of three days will make the edge more resistant to damage.

Dry sacking:
Form work is not used. Wet the patch with a spray bottle. Mix the pathcing compound with enough water so that the mix forms a ball, that will not fall apart when squeezed in your hand. Hand pack the area with the mix (using heavier pressure for edges). Directly after application the area is troweled, using heavier pressure than normal. When the patch has been compacted, dry patching compound is sprinkled on the patch and this is troweled smooth using heavier pressure than normal. When the the patch is smooth and level with the other surfaces, it's misted, covered and cured.
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