What paint to use on concrete?
#1
06-11-10, 07:55 AM
What paint to use on concrete?
I somehow got in the middle of 2 neighbor's disagreement,and they want me to decide (?????)
The problem
ne neighbor wants to paint the visible part of the foundation (from grade up to the bottom of the siding).
He wants to use regular exterior paint.
Hid s friend says that he has to use "concrete paint", or the concrete won't be able to breathe, and will rot.
For some reason, known only to God,they asked me to decide.
Maybe they knew that I come to the forums ???
Help!an he use regular paint? Or will the concrete rot??
Thanks in advance.C
The problem
ne neighbor wants to paint the visible part of the foundation (from grade up to the bottom of the siding).He wants to use regular exterior paint.
Hid s friend says that he has to use "concrete paint", or the concrete won't be able to breathe, and will rot.
For some reason, known only to God,they asked me to decide.
Maybe they knew that I come to the forums ???
Help!an he use regular paint? Or will the concrete rot??
Thanks in advance.C
#2
06-11-10, 09:40 AM
Member
I have no idea what "concrete paint" might be after 40 years experience. If some one used the word "rot" either his pronunciation is bad or he just reads can labels.
You should have a breating coating.
If it was for a quality finish (as in architectural), a coat of white or gray Thoroseal followed by a coating of Thorosheen that may be tinted would be idea, but more work than slopping on some latex paint and definitely not cheap, but has been used for a few decades. Thoroseal is normally sold dry in bags and must be mixed according to instructions. Thorosheen may be difficult to find in a typical big box since it used more for restoration, architectural and technical applications.
Just give them some information and let them decide on the color which is much more personal and dividing among neighbors.
Dick
You should have a breating coating.
If it was for a quality finish (as in architectural), a coat of white or gray Thoroseal followed by a coating of Thorosheen that may be tinted would be idea, but more work than slopping on some latex paint and definitely not cheap, but has been used for a few decades. Thoroseal is normally sold dry in bags and must be mixed according to instructions. Thorosheen may be difficult to find in a typical big box since it used more for restoration, architectural and technical applications.
Just give them some information and let them decide on the color which is much more personal and dividing among neighbors.
Dick
#3
06-11-10, 10:41 AM
Super Moderator
No expert on this...but out here where almost every house is stucco and most fences are block and stucco..the main thing used for "painting" them is an elastomeric masonry,stucco and brick coating. It helps waterproof the surface but is a breathable film to allow moisture to escape.
I've seen houses and block walls done with it and they still look good 8 yrs after application. I've also seen block and concrete painted with regular exterior house paint and w/in a few years it was flaking, chaulking, and faded.
Dicks advice I'm sure is the best...but it's going to be more expensive.
I've seen houses and block walls done with it and they still look good 8 yrs after application. I've also seen block and concrete painted with regular exterior house paint and w/in a few years it was flaking, chaulking, and faded.
Dicks advice I'm sure is the best...but it's going to be more expensive.
#4
06-11-10, 01:38 PM
What is the foundation made of?
If it's a block foundation you need to first prime it with block fill [a heavy masonry primer designed to fill the pores in the block] You can skip this step if the walls are stucco'd.
Generally masonry paint is just a poorer grade of house paint. I suspect the differences in painted block Vic described were do to either cheap coatings or improper painting practices. There are more block homes in fla than anywhere else I've lived and block homes painted with cheap paint tend to fade after a yr or so but well painted block homes can have the paint job last 10 yrs.
Most latex coatings breathe while oil base coatings don't.
If it's a block foundation you need to first prime it with block fill [a heavy masonry primer designed to fill the pores in the block] You can skip this step if the walls are stucco'd.
Generally masonry paint is just a poorer grade of house paint. I suspect the differences in painted block Vic described were do to either cheap coatings or improper painting practices. There are more block homes in fla than anywhere else I've lived and block homes painted with cheap paint tend to fade after a yr or so but well painted block homes can have the paint job last 10 yrs.
Most latex coatings breathe while oil base coatings don't.
#5
06-19-10, 08:03 AM
Thanks for the info. I was away from home, and didn't get a chance to talk to these 2 neighbors until yesterday.
As partial replies:
The color the owner wants to use is white.
The "regular paint" proponent said he would have used latex exterior paint, as suggested by the paint store salesman.
I, too, have never heard of "concrete paint".
Neither guy has ever heard of Thoroseal/thorosheen (I have heard the names, but wasn't sure what they were.
The foundation is poured concrete. It has a white coating on it, which needs replacing/redoing. from what I can tell, the old coating is not thick like a stucco , but thin like ,well, paint.
As partial replies:
The color the owner wants to use is white.
The "regular paint" proponent said he would have used latex exterior paint, as suggested by the paint store salesman.
I, too, have never heard of "concrete paint".
Neither guy has ever heard of Thoroseal/thorosheen (I have heard the names, but wasn't sure what they were.
The foundation is poured concrete. It has a white coating on it, which needs replacing/redoing. from what I can tell, the old coating is not thick like a stucco , but thin like ,well, paint.
#6
06-19-10, 11:35 AM
Thoroseal is a masonry sealer. I'd don't know much about it and I'm not sure if it is available everywhere.
As much of the deteriorating coating as possible should be removed. I'd pressure wash [if feasible] and/or use a wire brush. If the remaining coating is chalky - add flood's emulsa bond to the 1st coat of latex paint, that will help the paint to bond to/thru the chalk. If you opt for an elastromeric coating, the 1st coat should either be a latex primer or regular latex paint. EB can be added to either one, you wouldn't want to add any to the top coat [elastromeric]
As much of the deteriorating coating as possible should be removed. I'd pressure wash [if feasible] and/or use a wire brush. If the remaining coating is chalky - add flood's emulsa bond to the 1st coat of latex paint, that will help the paint to bond to/thru the chalk. If you opt for an elastromeric coating, the 1st coat should either be a latex primer or regular latex paint. EB can be added to either one, you wouldn't want to add any to the top coat [elastromeric]
#7
06-20-10, 03:48 AM
yes, its available everywhere,,, however, ' everywhere ' to the avg diy'er is limited to apron stores - you'll need either a masonary OR const supply house,,, ( btw, masonry refers to a fraternity of mine )
paint stores sell paint - that's their business,,, my business is conc & THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS ANY PAINT THAT WILL STICK TO CONCRETE for what i consider an appreciable service life.
4,000psi-4gpm-turbo nozzle pressure washing MAY remove most of the stuff,,, depending on climate, ALL coats should be elastomeric in my training.
good luck, solomon ! Beer 4U2
paint stores sell paint - that's their business,,, my business is conc & THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS ANY PAINT THAT WILL STICK TO CONCRETE for what i consider an appreciable service life.
4,000psi-4gpm-turbo nozzle pressure washing MAY remove most of the stuff,,, depending on climate, ALL coats should be elastomeric in my training.
good luck, solomon ! Beer 4U2
