Attaching walls to concrete slab

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Old 10-10-10, 04:59 PM
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Attaching walls to concrete slab

I have a concrete slab that was poured several months ago and am now going to build the storage shed. I need advice on attaching the walls to the concrete. Should I build the walls first and stand them up and attach to concrete or put down a base board and build walls from that? If a base board, then what is best way to attach walls to base? I am looking for stability during high winds, big storms, etc.
 
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Old 10-10-10, 06:03 PM
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Welcome to the forums! You didn't say how big it was, so here's generic advice. I prefer to build my walls and raise them. That way I can space the studs, build the window and door openings while the frame is laying flat. Raise the walls and secure them to the concrete using a combination of sill seal foam and powder actuated pin nails (ramset). Use 2 1/2" pins with yellow charges.
 
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Old 10-10-10, 06:25 PM
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Is that a slab only.. or a slab poured within a foundation?
Either way, its easier, as Chandler suggested..and what is usually done, that is, build your walls on the flat then raise them to the positions required. You may want to up the securing to the slab by drilling thru the base plate and then into the concrete and use concrete achor bolts, that fit in the hole and when tighted, expand withing the hole to tighted the framing more securely than just a 2 1/2" ramset 'pin'.
Just my $.02.
If this was a slab poured within a foundation.. usually bolts are placed in the foundation whe poured .and then used to anchor your walls to it..
Let us know how it works out...!
 
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Old 10-10-10, 06:50 PM
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Don't forget that the bottom plate will be in contact with the concrete and probably in a damp environment (from the interior and within 6" of the outside soil), so it should be pressure treated wood.

Dick
 
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Old 10-11-10, 08:35 PM
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wow, thanks for all the advice! It is only 10 X 10 and is a slab only. I will use pressure treated wood for the base. Thanks again and will probably be posting again as the build gets closer.
 
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Old 10-21-10, 09:21 PM
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by your last post, you might not read this but anyway,

Our building code (Florida) would require with "stick built" construction, anchor or expansion bolts at a minimum of 6' apart. The bolt minimum would be 1/2" sunk 6" into the concrete. I always go 4' apart since the structural engineers will typically specify it in the plans.

I use 8 1/2" Simpsons......

Some folks like to put anchor bolts during the pour. I find it more useful, faster, and easier to drill through the sill plate with a wood drill and then use a concrete bit (the cheap Milwaukee works best for me).

The bolts would then need a coupler and a threaded rod (go bolts) through your doubled top plates. Square 2x2 washers need to be used top and bottom underneath the coupler. The system should also be on both sides of each window and door.

And at each truss or rafter, a Simpson H10 should be used...Some engineers will specifiy one H10 on each side of the truss or rafter. I personally think it weakens the truss, but the inspectors will typically review the plans on gable end bracing and wind protection every time.

As you mentioned, pt wood at the sill plate is necessary, but so is a sill sealer to meet code. The sill sealer will prevent bugs and water from getting past minor imperfections in wood or slab and keep the floor dry inside.

That would make you "wind ready" for 120mph.
 

Last edited by flbuild; 10-21-10 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 10-22-10, 04:14 AM
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Good advice. Hopefully he won't have 120 mph winds in Ft. Worth. Florida is overkill for most of the country, but totally necessary in your area.
 
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