Replacing Flashing - Over stone and stucco

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Old 09-28-11, 03:03 PM
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Replacing Flashing - Over stone and stucco

I am replacing a porch roof which rotted out due to some sloppy flashing work.
The porch roof is attached to the house at a point that is 1/2 stone and 1/2 stucco over block. The flashing job on the stucco piece is okay, but when the stone was repointed a few years ago, the flashing was just attached on top of a ridge of mortar which was applied over the stone (original stone to the house).
I believe I need to rip out all of the flashing and replace properly in order to avoid this in the future.
For the stucco side, I can chisel out 3-4 inches above the roof line and nail the flashing directly into the block - - But for the stone side, what do I nail the flashing into? I can put a strip of lathe into the stone and apply a thin layer of mortar, and nail flashing into that?
And after I'm done, I assume that I nail lathe above the flashing, and then plaster down to the roofline?
Sorry if this is a simple question - I'm not a contractor, but my repair budget is shot, so I need to try to do this on my own...Just need to get it right the first time!

Thanks in advance - - This board has been a great reference, so looking forward to some suggestions.
 
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Old 10-05-11, 06:23 PM
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I always look for an easiest (and economical) way to do something. In your case, I'd put the chisel away, and make a continuous horizontal sawcut in the stucco and stonework. A good diamond-tipped blade on a rental Target saw would do the trick. Just wear eye, nose and mouth protection, because the dust can be a killer.

Use Z-flashing, but don't make the stone/stucco cut until you have flashing in hand, so you know exactly where the top horizontal leg of the metal has to go. You could install that leg in a heavy bead of butyl caulk (the real sticky, tenacious stuff, NOT water-based) placed in the sawcut after same is flushed out and blown dry. Drilling 1/4" or 3/8" holes in the embedded flashing leg every 6" before installing would ensure that the butyl will grab and hold it forever. A low-modulus epoxy gel would be stronger than the butyl, but can get a little pricey.
 
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