Faux Stone Veneer on a Grade Beam???

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Old 07-18-12, 12:09 PM
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Faux Stone Veneer on a Grade Beam???

I've got a 50's era ranch on sloping lot that has a tall section of (now quite ugly) concrete grade beam exposed. Some of the neighbors have resorted to the guarantee "fail" of painting theirs green or stucco or tera cotta color, and they all look like hammered you-know-what.

Q: Is it possible to extend exterior sheathing down below the line where the stud wall meets the grade beam with hardee board or concrete board or whatever and then apply faux stone sheathing over that..Thus taking the faux stone all the way down to the soil level.....or am I guaranteeing a cracked stone veneer wall a year down the road?
 
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Old 07-18-12, 12:40 PM
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Welcome to the forums

I think I know what you're saying, can you post a pic or two to make sure?
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 07-18-12, 08:40 PM
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Trying to install anything over hardie plank is not recommended by the manufacturer. The stuff doesn't like constant exposure to moisture (will eventually crumble), meaning your fake stone will be falling off in a year or two.

Far better to install the stone veneer directly on your existing concrete surfaces.
 
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Old 07-20-12, 06:33 AM
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As you can see, the grade beam under the garage stud wall is really tall and really ugly. All of the peeling white 105 shiplap on the bottom half will come off just leaving studs covered with tar paper. What Id like to do Is lay down some Durock all the way to grade and then apply the stone veneer over that. I know that most people/jobs just stop the veneer where the stud wall ends, but the whole point of this is to cover up the ugly concrete grade beam....

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Old 07-20-12, 02:41 PM
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Install new moisture resistant building paper almost to the grade. Maybe hold up a foot or so. Carry the paper right up to the top of the lap siding. Put a flashing under the siding above that. Install metal lath or woven wire lath right down to the grade or below. (This is not the best idea if you are worried about termites.)
Then apply a stucco scratch coat. Where the foundation is recessed from the upper part you might have to add another coat or two to get it flat. Install the stone over the scratch coat.

You won't have to take off the siding if you do it this way.

If you are dead set on taking the siding off you can still apply the paper, lath or wire or paperbacked wire and scratch it then add the stone.
 
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Old 07-20-12, 06:04 PM
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Nah - that peeling siding has to go. Grandad used to ay that no paint he ever put on that wood stuck.... said the original builder used "green" wood when new. I dont know about all that, but I think stone veneer from Boral will make an impessive presentation. Thanks for advice.
 
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Old 07-20-12, 06:29 PM
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What I am saying is you can stucco and stone right over the siding. But you can remove the siding then lath it or wire to the studs, put the stone over the scratch coat without putting cement board on the wall first.

You will get a flatter job if you use expanded metal lath over the open studs. Put paper behind the lath. If there is sheating behind the siding use a double layer of paper before the lath or wire.
 
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