Replacing concrete walkway along side of house**** Nightmare****

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Old 02-14-13, 02:25 PM
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Replacing concrete walkway along side of house**** Nightmare****

Hi Everyone. I recently bought a townhouse that had some bad concrete construction and attempted repair work by the prior owner. The concrete walkway which is right up against the wall of the townhouse was slanted towards the house... The prior owner tried to deal with some flooding issues by adding or floating the surface of the concrete but not changing the slant of it. I demolished the old walkway... now im looking for help on figureing out the sloap of the walkway. It might be best if I can post some pictures on this site... The walkway ran alongside the side of the house and met up with the front entry way slab of the house.. I want to make sure I sloap this walkway correctly . I will be posting pics later tonight .Thanks everyone!
 
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Old 02-14-13, 02:33 PM
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http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

Welcome to the forums.

Generally, you want a slope of at least 1/4" per foot of run away from the house.
 
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Old 02-15-13, 03:37 PM
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Pictures Of My Nightmare grading issue etc etc .....

Hi Everyone. Thanks Mitch for the help with pics. here is the side of my Townhouse. The former owner decided to deal with a flooding issue by making an even bigger mess.. I busted out the existing concrete walkway that was slanted towards the house .. now I have to take some dirt from the yard and remove it to make it a little lower than where my new concrete will go. Do I simply put some corregated fiber in between my concrete walkway and my house and frame it right up against my house? What is the appropriate height for the new concrete walkway if its going up against my house. Thanks everyone!


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Old 02-16-13, 09:08 PM
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When placing concrete against a house's foundation walls, always install a buffer strip of expansion filler, nailed or glued with the top at finished grade. It's available in 1/2" thickness, 4" wide; the black stuff is more durable than the gray. I always set (free-standing) concrete forms using a stringline set at finished grade, wrapped around wooden stakes or steel pins (rebar will also work). Orient the stringline such that the water has a place to go, and doesn't collect in large puddles anywhere (we call them bird-baths in the industry)--an inexpensive line level attached to the string works well to keep the water moving where you want it to go when the job is finished. Just match the top of forms with the tightly-tensioned stringline. If there's no obvious place to take the water, and your soil doesn't perc very well, digging a large dry-well at the lowest point of the concrete placement may be an option to consider.
 
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