Patching concrete floor


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Old 04-20-13, 08:31 PM
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Patching concrete floor

I am enclosing a three car garage. The removed three doors will be replaced by windows and a sliding glass door.

When the slab was poured, the masons left a trough at each door....the idea being that no water could get in and possibly help keep some dirt from coming in.

Sounded like a good idea at the time but now it is causing me an issue.

I would like to fill these "troughs" and paint the floor, hopefully coming close to hiding the troughs but at the very least having them filled solidly with NO cracking.

It would mean a nine foot long pour of concrete approx 1.25 - 1.5" thick.

Do you think it is reasonable to assume that a thin patch like that, poured over existing concrete will not crack? I know the cold joint will show but I can seal that with polyurethane caulk.....I am primarily worried that it is too thin to maintain it's integrity.
 
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Old 04-21-13, 04:22 AM
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You might need a bonding agent.

QUIKRETE® - Concrete Bonding Adhesive
 
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Old 04-21-13, 04:29 AM
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What will this new living space be used for? Most garage floors are sloped towards the garage door so they can be rinsed out and to keep any rain or snow that drips off of the vehicles from puddling up on the concrete. How do you intend to finish the exterior under the windows? It's best not to have exposed wood go all the way to the bottom.

btw - welcome to the forums!
 
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Old 04-23-13, 09:16 AM
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Concrete poured that thin and long, bonding agent or not, will almost certainly crack in multiple places. It would still be structurally sound, just maybe not aesthetically pleasing.
 
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Old 04-23-13, 09:47 AM
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When you install the concrete, you can minimize the number of cracks that will occur by grooving in a few control joints, one every 5' or so. Also, a bond-breaker between the visible brick walls and your new concrete will help it perform better and have fewer performance problems--I'd use a preformed expansion joint filler myself, but even a strip of roofing felt would work.
 
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Old 04-27-13, 01:42 PM
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Sorry to be so late to post back....I got unexpectedly pulled out of town.

So, I am going to take a stab at this using some of y'alls advice. I have saw cut the edges to give me a nice vertical joint.

Next, I will paint the vertical edges with a bonding agent, hoping that joint will stay tight. I will put a piece of roofing felt against the brick to isolate the pour and give me a mini-expansion joint.

Last, I will lay in a strip of that reinforcing wire that is about 7 inches wide and typically used in a concrete block wall. I am pretty sure I will get some cracking perpendicular to the length but I am hoping the reinforcing wire will keep them down to hairline in width.

I will post some more pics when I get the job done and then some more in a couple of months and we can count the cracks together!!
 
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Old 05-02-13, 08:30 AM
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I poured the concrete yesterday. All went smoothly but the test is over time. We'll see.

After it cures for a while, I will be painting the entire floor. The expansion joints in the remaining floor were filled with that styrofoam expansion material (4"x1/2" inch) that is "perfed" along the top 1/2" so you can strip that out and then fill the joint.

I am not sure what to fill the joint with. It seems a bit big (1/2" by 1/2") for caulk but I can't think of anything else suitable....suggestions?
 
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Old 05-02-13, 02:57 PM
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What's the reason for painting the floor? Cement is a maintenance free surface. I would leave it that way.
 
 

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