Will my footing be adequate for this fence project?
#1
04-23-13, 11:08 AM
Will my footing be adequate for this fence project?
I am ready to start digging and forming my fence project for the front yard and would like to know if the footing is adequate for supporting the weight of the 12"x12"x6' tall column, the column block is 12" x 12" x 8" tall.
There will be only 3 posts on each side of the drive way, one is straight as pictured and the other is an L shape due too a street light that's in the way.
The strip will be 24" wide and 4" deep, where there is a column I'll dig out a 16"x16"x12" deep hole and embedded 4 #10 rebar (a lot was given to me, measured 6'5" tall). Any comment or suggestion based on the drawing attached?
Thanks
There will be only 3 posts on each side of the drive way, one is straight as pictured and the other is an L shape due too a street light that's in the way.
The strip will be 24" wide and 4" deep, where there is a column I'll dig out a 16"x16"x12" deep hole and embedded 4 #10 rebar (a lot was given to me, measured 6'5" tall). Any comment or suggestion based on the drawing attached?
Thanks
#2
04-23-13, 12:19 PM
a couple of questions for you:
1) I assume frost is not an issue in your area?
2) What type of soil do you have? (what is the typical bearing capacity)
3) What type/style of fence will be placed between the posts?
If you ever have freezing temps you need to get below frost.
If you poor soil conditions you could have a lot of cracking in the strip of concrete (24" wide x 4" deep) you put in.
If you place a solid fence between the posts you will have created a very large sail. The wind could/will turn the post foundations fairly easily and the entire fence will lean in short order.
1) I assume frost is not an issue in your area?
2) What type of soil do you have? (what is the typical bearing capacity)
3) What type/style of fence will be placed between the posts?
If you ever have freezing temps you need to get below frost.
If you poor soil conditions you could have a lot of cracking in the strip of concrete (24" wide x 4" deep) you put in.
If you place a solid fence between the posts you will have created a very large sail. The wind could/will turn the post foundations fairly easily and the entire fence will lean in short order.
#3
04-23-13, 12:59 PM
Member
Most citieis in CA provide suggested information for walls that will stand up to the local conditions (wind, seismic). - Check to see if your municipality offers these. In SoCal, the fences are usually block with all sizes and reinforcement provided.
What is the fence material and how is it connected to resist the load? Do the columns take all the wind or does the wall and the columns are for architecture?
The weight of the columns alone are immaterial if the site can support a house and a driveway.
A little light on the information to give good suggestions.
Dick
What is the fence material and how is it connected to resist the load? Do the columns take all the wind or does the wall and the columns are for architecture?
The weight of the columns alone are immaterial if the site can support a house and a driveway.
A little light on the information to give good suggestions.
Dick
#4
04-23-13, 02:37 PM
I am in Sacramento Northern CA, there is never snow, days that the temp fall under 32 degree are not that many.
The fencing type will be wrought iron type from Home Depot, 5' tall and 8' wide, with picket spacing about 4" apart and will be bolt on to the column. Between the columns there will be a strip of 8"x8"x16" cement block which will be covered with a cement cap and then the fence panel will go on top of that.
Soil is petty hard mud type
For the footing area I can also dig it deeper than 12" as well, the only thing with my 6.5' tall rebar is that if I sink it all the wall then it will be short for the last one to two column blocks.
If 4" is too thin for the area that are not act as a footing to the columns I can frame it with 2x6 which will give it 5/5" thick and added horizontal rebar for additional support.
The fencing type will be wrought iron type from Home Depot, 5' tall and 8' wide, with picket spacing about 4" apart and will be bolt on to the column. Between the columns there will be a strip of 8"x8"x16" cement block which will be covered with a cement cap and then the fence panel will go on top of that.
Soil is petty hard mud type
For the footing area I can also dig it deeper than 12" as well, the only thing with my 6.5' tall rebar is that if I sink it all the wall then it will be short for the last one to two column blocks.
If 4" is too thin for the area that are not act as a footing to the columns I can frame it with 2x6 which will give it 5/5" thick and added horizontal rebar for additional support.
#5
04-23-13, 03:02 PM
Member
That should work.
The bent iron will not pick up the wind, so the tipping of the columns is minimal.
The 4" may be adequate, but it cheap and easy to go a little deeper (8"). You probably do not really have any frost depth, so heaving is not a problem.
The thickness of the footing between columns is usually not that important since the width is sufficient for a non bearing wall. The footing under the bent iron is just theer to provide a level wide base to lay a level concrete block course that looks good.
Dick
The bent iron will not pick up the wind, so the tipping of the columns is minimal.
The 4" may be adequate, but it cheap and easy to go a little deeper (8"). You probably do not really have any frost depth, so heaving is not a problem.
The thickness of the footing between columns is usually not that important since the width is sufficient for a non bearing wall. The footing under the bent iron is just theer to provide a level wide base to lay a level concrete block course that looks good.
Dick
