Advice for cutting thicker pavers

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-07-13, 07:53 AM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Advice for cutting thicker pavers

Hi,

We are going to be putting together one of the fountain kits from Menards. It mostly uses whole pavers, but some cutting is required and I'd like your input on the best way to go.

Most of the cuts require cutting their tumbled Belgian pavers (14" x 7" x 3.5") in half. Initially I was thinking an angle grinder with a masonry blade, but now I'm leaning more toward a diamond blade and my circular saw. Since all the cuts are straight, I think that would be the way to go.

I've been reading up on cutting pavers, and I came across a article that recommended taking a short piece of 2x6, screwing a scrap of 4x4 (or something fairly tall at one end to create a ramp, and then screwing a couple pieces of angle iron at the low end. You then lay a paver on this and use gravity and the angle iron to hold the paver while you cut it. I imagine I could even clamp it to the 2x6 if need be.

If I go with the circular saw and diamond blade, do I want a segmented blade or a continuous edge? And with a 3.5" thick paver, do I just score the paver on each side and use a chisel, or do I try to cut it most or all the way through (from each side)? If I cut them most or all of the way through, I assume I'll need to set the blade very shallow to start with and gradually increase the depth? Any other advice?

Sorry for all the questions, but this is my first attempt at this and I haven't been able to find much on cutting thicker pavers like these. Thanks for your help!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-07-13, 09:54 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,388
Received 14 Votes on 12 Posts
Buy a good mask as dry cutting is very dusty.

It depends on how many cuts you need to make. I use a diamond blade if I have one or two cuts. If you have to mass produce I would look to renting a bridge or table wet saw. A bridge saw has the blade mounted above the paver and your pull the blade through the material (like a radial arm saw). A table wet saw has a shelf that slides and you push the paver through a stationary saw blade. The also make cheap wet saws for under $100 bucks if you think you may have a future need for one (tile job maybe?).

Depending on how deep you can cut, the pavers probably should be cut from both sides and the center will snap when tapped with a hammer.
 
  #3  
Old 07-08-13, 04:03 PM
BridgeMan45's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,196
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
A few taps on a brickset will ensure that you get nice, straight breaks. And probably require shallower sawcuts, as well.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: