Hey,

I was looking to build a fire pit in my hard with nice stones and some fire bricks. The interior diameter of the pit would be roughly 36 inches.

Do I need to go below the frostline for this. I live in Wisconsin and I want the pit to last forever.

99% of the pits i see online just sit on top or have a small gravel base or a small concrete base, none of them have a base below the frostline.

I am not trying to build an ICBM silo here, but i would like something that lasts.

 

common , someone answer

 

Is this going to be dry stacked or mortared together?

Basically you can go two different routes. Missile silo below the frost line so it does not move or you can allow it to go with the flow and move a bit with the changing seasons.

 

Going below your frost line for a fire pit is definitely overkill, IMHO. Placed on a well-draining 6" base of crushed gravel, any frost heave should be fairly uniform and probably quite negligible. Especially if you dry-stack the rocks.

And Billie--"poor" is the opposite of rich. "Pour" is what you do with concrete.

 

Thanks Bridgeman.

English is my 3rd language so there is that .

the pit would be mortared together or put together using an adhesive. I saw online that people poor a base out of concrete first through.

 

C'est domage, Monsier Billie . . . . .

 

pas de probleme ponthomme.

Mais, peut-etre vous pouvez me dire...

the firepit will not be built with louse stone. With that in mind... do i need a base below the frostline?

also, if i were to poor a smaller footing... how do i get rebar to go into the circle shape?

 

Enschuldegung, aber Ich verstehen Sie nicht jetzt. Ich lachen, weil Es ist die Erzahlung von mein Leben.

If the footing is strong enough to uniformly heave and settle with the seasons (without destroying itself), it doesn't have to be below the frost line. Especially if poured ("poored") on a base of well-draining gravel, to minimize frost heave in the first place. I personally would not dig a 6'-deep footing hole for a simple fire pit.

No. 4 rebar can be bent by placing it in a sturdy vice and exerting pressure on it by some pokes with a 3-lb. maul or with a cheater pipe, in increments. Moving it 2" or so with each slight bend, a curve to any desired radius can be approximated. If you don't have access to a vice (being a home owner, you should really have one, BTW, mounted on a stout work bench), rent a rebar bender from your local construction supply place. Or if you have a welder and the proper skills, you can fabricate one out of a length of pipe and a few chunks of steel scrap.

Il ny'a pas de quois (Bitte schoen).