Hole cut in load bearing block wall
#1
08-07-13, 10:27 PM
Hole cut in load bearing block wall
I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not filled or rebar). See image.
Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to it?
Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?
Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to it?
Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?
#2
08-08-13, 04:54 AM
Member
Welcome to the forum.
Would it be possible to get a wider angle shot of this area?
Nothing worse then hiring someone to do a job, and they leave it more of a mess then when they found it. This should be repaired very soon in order to prevent the wall from breaking up.
Although slightly off topic... I really don't like what I see in that picture. That pipe work and outlet raises a couple concerns.
Would it be possible to get a wider angle shot of this area?
Nothing worse then hiring someone to do a job, and they leave it more of a mess then when they found it. This should be repaired very soon in order to prevent the wall from breaking up.
Although slightly off topic... I really don't like what I see in that picture. That pipe work and outlet raises a couple concerns.
#3
08-08-13, 05:20 AM
Member
That appears to be typical "junk block" that can be common to the AZ market, but the probably do meet all standards, but the original workmanship is horrible. - Even the pipe work looks more questionable.
If it is a 1 or 2 story home, I would not worry about structural problems, since is still probably stronger than wood stud wall.
For repairs, you could have someone lay concrete brick with the roughly 4x8 face facing out and they could fit in the openings after he opens the hole up to clean out the pieces not removed. - Remember where it is in case you have to knock the opening out to repair any piping.
At the same time he could use some left over mortar to fill around the other opening to keep the the bugs out of the house.
Dick
If it is a 1 or 2 story home, I would not worry about structural problems, since is still probably stronger than wood stud wall.
For repairs, you could have someone lay concrete brick with the roughly 4x8 face facing out and they could fit in the openings after he opens the hole up to clean out the pieces not removed. - Remember where it is in case you have to knock the opening out to repair any piping.
At the same time he could use some left over mortar to fill around the other opening to keep the the bugs out of the house.
Dick
#4
08-08-13, 07:33 PM
Wider shot of pic as requested.
The block wall is 16' long and 10' tall. It's a kitchen wall, water lines going to the left are supply for sink, and to the right it's going to the fridge.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]16115[/ATTACH]
The block wall is 16' long and 10' tall. It's a kitchen wall, water lines going to the left are supply for sink, and to the right it's going to the fridge.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]16115[/ATTACH]
#5
08-08-13, 07:49 PM
Member
Why not just infill all of the damaged block? It's not that difficult, and if done correctly, not many people will realize there used to be a hole there.
There was a similar post in this section of the forum a few weeks ago. In a response, I explained in some detail how to do such a job. You should be able to find it with the search mode, if you need some help with the particulars. In your case, I'd leave the long bottom course block in place, just repairing (filling) the wider crack with mortar. But all of the other damaged ones can be removed to the nearest joint line, and then replaced with new block. While you're at it, you could tuck-point the open joints at nearby locations as well.
There was a similar post in this section of the forum a few weeks ago. In a response, I explained in some detail how to do such a job. You should be able to find it with the search mode, if you need some help with the particulars. In your case, I'd leave the long bottom course block in place, just repairing (filling) the wider crack with mortar. But all of the other damaged ones can be removed to the nearest joint line, and then replaced with new block. While you're at it, you could tuck-point the open joints at nearby locations as well.
