Sealing cracks around house against SCORPIONS (pictures). Help!

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Old 08-14-13, 04:06 PM
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Sealing cracks around house against SCORPIONS (pictures). Help!

Hi, So we have moved into a house in AZ and of course we have to share space with these %^&*(** scorpions.

As part of a multi-pronged approach, I am also sealing up cracks around the house and was looking for advice as to what is the best/reasonable way to do this.

1. Cracks where block wall meets cement sidewalk (pic 1).Name:  1.jpg
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Size:  30.8 KB There is already some sort of filler wood (pic 2) stuck into the cracks all around the house. This appears to have shrunk and warped. I'm not sure what it is but the house is 40 years old. Name:  2.jpg
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Size:  42.0 KB

2. Cracks in concrete block wall.

3. Gap between trim and tiling in the house Name:  4.jpg
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Size:  35.3 KB. I have shoe molding but a scorpion can slide under a credit card thickness and I am not sure I should jam the shoe molding flush with the tile. And even that might not be sufficient since there are grooves between each tile.

Any help will be appreciated and add immeasurably to a quality of life that has been severely diminished since we have had multiple sightings of our dear Arachnoid friends
 
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Last edited by MrSmithNV; 08-14-13 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 08-14-13, 09:35 PM
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The thinner cracks can be filled with an exterior caulking. The crack in Pic #2 might need hydraulic cement.
 
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Old 08-14-13, 10:23 PM
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Just make sure you choose products that the little critters don't like to munch on, and then thrive and grow much bigger and stronger. I'm speaking from experience--there was something in the Colorado high country that liked to eat (or at least make lots of good-sized holes in) some of the exterior caulk I used on the outside of our log home. Never caught the culprits in action.

I lived in NM for 25 years, and can count on one finger the number of scorpions I remember seeing. Maybe the rattlesnakes ate them all? And AZ doesn't have enough rattlers?
 
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Old 08-14-13, 10:52 PM
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Not sure which I would prefer! I think we do have rattlers out in the countryside... but the scorps are all over the city. even in established neighborhoods.

Should I remove the wooden bits. Does anyone know what they are?

Hydraulic cement sounds like a good idea... I wonder though if I should be concerned about weather related expansion/contraction here in AZ. But it is block wall meeting concrete...
 
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Old 08-14-13, 11:01 PM
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What you're calling "wooden bits" looks more like old and leached bituminous joint filler. Remove it and replace with a good, commercial grade caulk. I prefer a urethane myself, installed at least 1/2" thick. On a compressed, rubber backer rod if your (cleaned out) openings are more than an inch deep.
 
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Old 08-15-13, 05:02 AM
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As for the baseboard, I'd caulk the bottom and while the caulking is still wet - install the shoe mold. You'll want to caulk [and paint] the top of the shoe mold. It's best not to caulk the molding to the floor as unpainted caulk tends to attract dirt.
 
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Old 08-15-13, 08:14 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I feel like I am getting a handle on this now

What do you think of this youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Hcx17cQU9Y

He uses sand to fill in the cracks, followed by a backer rod and then self-leveling urethane caulk. I like this because the cracks I have are uneven and difficult to caulk neatly.
 
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Old 08-15-13, 08:27 AM
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self-leveling urethane caulk
Just wondering if you picked up any brand names on the self leveling urethane caulk. I have a similar project to do soon.
 
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Old 08-15-13, 09:13 AM
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The caulk used in that video is Sikaflex 1CSL - Amazon.com

Sikaflex 1CSL

Whether it is the best or even adequate... I do not know.
 
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Old 08-22-13, 09:01 AM
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Just to add here: I see a lot of recommendations for Novalink SL from Chemlink for this sort of crack filling.

Use sand first (optional) and then a closed foam backer rod. Followed by the self leveling Novalink SL that comes in different colors. The only problem is that it is hard to find. Have to order online and shipping makes it expensive.

I am sticking with the Sikaflex. Will report how it works in 5 years or so!!!
 
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