Painting a Garage Floor
#1
10-16-13, 05:45 PM
Painting a Garage Floor
I just pulled up old carpeting that was on the garage floor. On the concrete is the remains of the glue used to adhere the carpeting, along with the usual drips and stains that a garage floor is subject to.
I'm thinking practical and inexpensive, meaning painting the concrete is the wise choice. If I elect to do it myself, never having done so, how difficult a job is this for a novice? If I decide to hire the job out, what might I expect to pay? I'm in south FL and the floor measures approximately 425 square feet. Thank you.
I'm thinking practical and inexpensive, meaning painting the concrete is the wise choice. If I elect to do it myself, never having done so, how difficult a job is this for a novice? If I decide to hire the job out, what might I expect to pay? I'm in south FL and the floor measures approximately 425 square feet. Thank you.
#4
10-17-13, 03:28 AM
Prep is key!! The better you get the concrete to look, the better chance whatever coating you use will have of adhering long term ...... and once you get it cleaned up good enough to paint/stain - you might no longer see the need to apply the coating 
#5
10-17-13, 04:01 AM
Mark, how best to prep the floor? What will thoroughly remove old carpet adhesive, oil drips, etc?
Someone recommended muriatic acid. Never worked with it, though, and I'm a bit leery. Someone else said a sanding machine is the only way to go.
Someone recommended muriatic acid. Never worked with it, though, and I'm a bit leery. Someone else said a sanding machine is the only way to go.
#6
10-17-13, 04:14 AM
Sanding would probably be best. You can rent a machine designed for 'sanding' concrete but I've never used one so can't comment further about them 
I often use detergent, a pressure washer along with scraping [if needed] to prep old garage floors. Don't forget to give the concrete plenty of time to dry prior to applying any coating! Muratic acid is normally used to open up the pores in the concrete to provide for better adhesion. I doubt it would help any for removing the adhesive.
I often use detergent, a pressure washer along with scraping [if needed] to prep old garage floors. Don't forget to give the concrete plenty of time to dry prior to applying any coating! Muratic acid is normally used to open up the pores in the concrete to provide for better adhesion. I doubt it would help any for removing the adhesive.
#7
10-22-13, 03:13 PM
I recently did this in my garage. I bought the Epoxyshield garage floor kit. The whole job turned out to be:
1.Got everything in the garage out.
2.Filled the many pits in with vinyl concrete patch (bought at menards ~$20). Ideally the concrete doesn't need this, but you need something flat for the paint to adhere well. It didn't turn out super well. i think the self leveling type of patch might have worked better
3.Washed the floor 2 times with a power washer. with enough pressure you can get alot of the surface issues cleaned up (partly removed oil spots, old paint/varnish stains, etc). I borrowed a power washer from my Dad, but you can rent/buy one too. Sanding would probably work better for your glue issues.
4.After washing several times i applied epoxyshield oil cleaner to the oil spots. It helped, but many of the spots were +10 years old and didn't come out completely
5.After washing off the oil cleaner with the power washer i let the floor dry.
6.Applied the Citrus Concrete etch/cleaner (included with epoxyshield kit) to the garage floor using a watering can
6.Let etch dry. It left a white chalky residue. to remove i had to power wash 2 more times
7.Let floor dry a final time, then mixed the epoxyshield buckets, rolled it onto the floor (needed to buy painting supplies at menards). put included paint chips down.
All told the project cost me about $3-400 for my 2 car garage. (i had to buy 2 kits, so yours would probably be closer to 200-300) when you include the costs of the extras/supplies. I imagine a contractor would charge you more or equal to that amount. Not sure though. You can probably rent a power washer.
I did this about 2 months ago and it still looks great.
1.Got everything in the garage out.
2.Filled the many pits in with vinyl concrete patch (bought at menards ~$20). Ideally the concrete doesn't need this, but you need something flat for the paint to adhere well. It didn't turn out super well. i think the self leveling type of patch might have worked better
3.Washed the floor 2 times with a power washer. with enough pressure you can get alot of the surface issues cleaned up (partly removed oil spots, old paint/varnish stains, etc). I borrowed a power washer from my Dad, but you can rent/buy one too. Sanding would probably work better for your glue issues.
4.After washing several times i applied epoxyshield oil cleaner to the oil spots. It helped, but many of the spots were +10 years old and didn't come out completely
5.After washing off the oil cleaner with the power washer i let the floor dry.
6.Applied the Citrus Concrete etch/cleaner (included with epoxyshield kit) to the garage floor using a watering can
6.Let etch dry. It left a white chalky residue. to remove i had to power wash 2 more times
7.Let floor dry a final time, then mixed the epoxyshield buckets, rolled it onto the floor (needed to buy painting supplies at menards). put included paint chips down.
All told the project cost me about $3-400 for my 2 car garage. (i had to buy 2 kits, so yours would probably be closer to 200-300) when you include the costs of the extras/supplies. I imagine a contractor would charge you more or equal to that amount. Not sure though. You can probably rent a power washer.
I did this about 2 months ago and it still looks great.
#8
12-07-13, 05:59 PM
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To get the mastic off I highly recommend a product called Bean-e-doo. I helped my brother remove mastic to install tile and this stuff worked great. It doesn't have toxic fumes either.
#9
12-08-13, 04:47 AM
in atl, the going rate for grinding a 2car garage floor's $500,,, diamond grinding is much better than ' sanding ' altho some interchange the definitions,,, most rental shops have floor buffers & diamond grinding attachments,,, might need a 4 or 7" hand grinder for the edges,,, even threaded diamond cup wheels are cheaper on eBay
beanee-doo is a pro accepted mtl for epoxy/paint/junk stain removal,,, elephant snot is another,,, most pro's don't ( nor have i ) use b/d since the most common complaint is properly cleaning up b/d residue & resolving its lingering issues for coating adhesion,,, we all diamond grind to achieve uniform surface & better product adhesion,,, grinding allows faster work - no power washing, acid, or drying,,, 2car garage = 2 men,,, 1st d, jnt/crk/spall reprs, grind, squeegee & backroll epoxy base coat, broadcast full vinyl flake; 2nd d, rake loose chips, vac, light sanding, & top w/urethane coat
IF you need spall/jnt repairs, i don't suggest self-leveling stuff,,, use hydraulic - its fast, strong, & workable,,, self-leveling may have sufficient compressive strength but not the best adhesive strength.
friend of mine buys apron/vest kits for his garage then redoes the floor every yr,,, i did ours 9 yrs ago - nothing since,,, expect we'll get another 11 easily - why 20 ? we guarantee our work that long
forgot - yes, use the spike overshoes ! its difficult buying specialty materials at ANY apron/vest store - we buy 6mm plastic, bagged conc mix, & foam brushes only
beanee-doo is a pro accepted mtl for epoxy/paint/junk stain removal,,, elephant snot is another,,, most pro's don't ( nor have i ) use b/d since the most common complaint is properly cleaning up b/d residue & resolving its lingering issues for coating adhesion,,, we all diamond grind to achieve uniform surface & better product adhesion,,, grinding allows faster work - no power washing, acid, or drying,,, 2car garage = 2 men,,, 1st d, jnt/crk/spall reprs, grind, squeegee & backroll epoxy base coat, broadcast full vinyl flake; 2nd d, rake loose chips, vac, light sanding, & top w/urethane coat
IF you need spall/jnt repairs, i don't suggest self-leveling stuff,,, use hydraulic - its fast, strong, & workable,,, self-leveling may have sufficient compressive strength but not the best adhesive strength.
friend of mine buys apron/vest kits for his garage then redoes the floor every yr,,, i did ours 9 yrs ago - nothing since,,, expect we'll get another 11 easily - why 20 ? we guarantee our work that long
forgot - yes, use the spike overshoes ! its difficult buying specialty materials at ANY apron/vest store - we buy 6mm plastic, bagged conc mix, & foam brushes only
Last edited by stadry; 12-08-13 at 05:03 AM.
#10
12-08-13, 12:54 PM
marksr, do you place ind/comm coatings or just h/o garage floors ? curious why acid & not dia grinding ? tnx
'nother note on the beaneedoo - its expensive IF you're doing anything large like a 2car garage floor compared to diy cost of diamond grinding
'nother note on the beaneedoo - its expensive IF you're doing anything large like a 2car garage floor compared to diy cost of diamond grinding
#11
12-09-13, 04:38 AM
I prefer not to apply any coatings to garage floors but if a customer insists, I'll try to steer them to a concrete stain [like H&C] otherwise I'll use what they specify. While retired now, I was basically in the painting, not floor coating business.
